Huge tour of national parks... tips, tricks on each park?

[Zero_Time]

So, after being handed a horrible hand by fate, I decided to turn the long trip to where I will plot the next stage of my life into an adventure, to the point that if all goes well, this will be transformed into a "lemons to lemonade" post with pictures. Anyway, taking a HUGE solo (may pickup hitchers in between to share gas) road trip- over 4000 miles- from where I currently am, in Wisconsin, through the country to California. I am hitting a jaw-dropping amount of parks (thinking the rest of my trip will be around a month or so, due to cash, though might be able to extend if I can make cash along the way), so probably can't spend more than a few days in each. Have canned food (heavy but cheap), and am going to backpack, go backcountry, and want to experience as much of what there is to as possible. I am short of cash, but very comfortable with wolves, bears, LNT, etc. Extensive experience camping. Have a cheap and heavy tent, gregory pack, no gps except my portable car model, comfortable with topos, backpacking stove, CS survival shovel, and of course plenty of knives. The gear rundown (not complete, but to give an idea, and so someone can say if I NEED a hatchet, NEED a full size axe, etc.)

Anyone who has been to, worked at, has any tips, etc. at ANY of these parks, please- this space is FOR you to chime in. Never been to ANY of these parks (spent 1 hour after landing by helicopter in canyon, and drove through on tight schedule- 30 minutes and NOT hiking rim to rim was NOT enough)

In order (due to circumstances, may be until friday night until I can start on Isle Royale)

Isle Royale
Voyageurs (don't have a boat, so this will be short most likely)
Theodore Roosevelt
Badlands
Wind Cave (like mammoth, if you have to pay for each tour, will be short)
Rocky Mountain
Great Sand Dunes
Mesa Verde
Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Arches
Canyonlands
Capitol Reef
Bryce Canyon
Zion
Grand Canyon- North Rim
Death Valley
Kings Canyon

Thanks guys! Taking pictures as much as I can- already did Shenandoah, Great Smokies, and mammoth (not many pictures of mammoth- lantern tour) and will post in a RIDICULOUS post when/if I am back on my feet.

Zero

 

[JCavSD]

Wow, that's quite a list. I've spent time in all from Arches down, mostly camping and hiking on motorcycle trips. Of those eight I give Capitol Reef the overpowering thumbs up. Some really great rugged day hikes...I particularly liked Golden Throne. Best bet is to find a ranger, tell him/her what you want, and take the advice. And leave the hatchet at home and bring plenty of water. The link below has some pics from my trip last year.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/774180-11-Days-–-Hikes-Bikes-and-Blades

Looks like an awesome trip.

 

[FYTrig]

Great Luck to you! A tip for Black Canyon of the Gunnison is the campground is pretty exposed, but get up at dawn and peer into the canyon for a pristine look. And Great Sand Dunes you can pick up a permit to camp somewhere in the dunes at the visitor center, i think it costs around 15$. The campground is cool too though, along the river but you're right next to people (actually probably not many at this time of year). I vote for locking your car up and taking a tent and small amounts of gear and attempt an ascent though if you're not in for the hike just go a few dunes in for a bit of privacy!! Good luck, and wish you could take me with you as a hitchhiker!

 

[eisman]

I've been to all but 4 on your list, and used to be fairly intimate with several (in that I spent an inordinate amount of time there).

You are going to places that are dangerous at this time of year. There are long distances seperated by minimal facilities between some of these. Do not run out of gas or water. Keep a case of water in the car at all times. Ice too, if possible.

It can get extremely hot up in the TR and Badlands, and the weather is very likely to have violent storms. Once you come down into the Desert Basin it's going to get hot (expect 130 in DV this time of year). The Rockies and Kings Canyon are great right now, Zion and Bryce are good as long as you stay down below, but you'll find that up top they (and the Grand Canyon) are hot also. People die out there every year; don't be one of them.

Back country in some places is going to be very controlled; Kings Canyon/Yosemite/Sequoia for example. If you don't have permits you're going to be stuck with day trips. Back country around DV is the Panamints or the Whites, or the ghost towns in the north. Those are areas where you need to let the Park Service know you're going, because there's not a lot of traffic out there and they will come looking for you if you don't show up later. Mesa Verde doesn't really have much back country, but there are some good hikes to less populated and less know sites. Not much camping though.

I like Zion the best of all the Canyonlands parks, and there are some good places to go.

Set a goal for calorie intake and keep it, even if you're not hungery (which is common when it's really hot), and stay hydrated. Make sure you have a big canteen or Camelback (can't stress this enough).

If you're going to go from DV to KC go up 395 and cut over along the Kern or at Toalume Meadows. (I'd do the latter.) Stay around Whitney Portals (Lone Pine) or Bishop and hike into the Sierras from that side. Try Tom's Place.

Do a coolant service on your car before you leave.

 

[lambertiana]

I am intimately acquainted with Kings Canyon. I can offer suggestions if you can tell me a few things:

When do you plan to be there?
How many days do you want to be in the back country?
How far do you like to hike each day?
Are you comfortable with cross country travel (easier to navigate in SEKI because you can see landmarks, unlike the eastern forests where I grew up)?

 

[Zero_Time]

You are going to places that are dangerous at this time of year. There are long distances seperated by minimal facilities between some of these. Do not run out of gas or water. Keep a case of water in the car at all times. Ice too, if possible.

Which ones, exactly? Know the risks of Death Valley, and will be back here for specific advice when it comes to that.

It can get extremely hot up in the TR and Badlands, and the weather is very likely to have violent storms. Once you come down into the Desert Basin it's going to get hot (expect 130 in DV this time of year). The Rockies and Kings Canyon are great right now, Zion and Bryce are good as long as you stay down below, but you'll find that up top they (and the Grand Canyon) are hot also. People die out there every year; don't be one of them.

Good to know. I have camped out in the nevada desert, but as a part of an event, so not hiking. Am acquainted with 120+ temps and alkali dust, though.

Back country in some places is going to be very controlled; Kings Canyon/Yosemite/Sequoia for example. If you don't have permits you're going to be stuck with day trips. Back country around DV is the Panamints or the Whites, or the ghost towns in the north. Those are areas where you need to let the Park Service know you're going, because there's not a lot of traffic out there and they will come looking for you if you don't show up later. Mesa Verde doesn't really have much back country, but there are some good hikes to less populated and less know sites. Not much camping though.

Back country stipulation is because I enjoy the back country and I have a cramped car that isn't comfortable to sleep in. No $$ for hotel, so in cases like mammoth, where there isn't much backcountry, it's more about $ than anything.

I like Zion the best of all the Canyonlands parks, and there are some good places to go.

Super excited about Zion. Heard a bunch of good things about it. Care to share these places, either here or in PM?

Set a goal for calorie intake and keep it, even if you're not hungery (which is common when it's really hot), and stay hydrated. Make sure you have a big canteen or Camelback (can't stress this enough).

Is that absolutely necessary for all of them, or for the aforementioned dangerous NPs? I can certainly take stock before going into the dangerous ones, and be rigorous, but one of the joys of camping for me is NOT counting calories, and coming back a pound or two lighter, and not feeling hungry. Will certainly do so where necessary, but in the topical way I have been traveling the calories haven't been an issue, and were not even for extended, non-harsh climates. Water, I completely agree and will concede, I'll double check water resources before entering, and will keep several gallons in the car, in separate containers. Will carry much water too. Am accustomed to 1.5-2 gallons a day of drinking in deserts.

If you're going to go from DV to KC go up 395 and cut over along the Kern or at Toalume Meadows. (I'd do the latter.) Stay around Whitney Portals (Lone Pine) or Bishop and hike into the Sierras from that side. Try Tom's Place.

Do a coolant service on your car before you leave.

Before I leave for the trip in general, or for the rugged ones? Had my oil and such done before, and the car could probably use an inspection. Where is mechanical integrity absolutely critical, and do you know of a reliable shop that won't cost an arm and leg near said park(s)? Car has been fine, and I have AAA, but understand AAA means ______ in the middle of a desert when I die from dehydration.

I am intimately acquainted with Kings Canyon. I can offer suggestions if you can tell me a few things:

When do you plan to be there?
How many days do you want to be in the back country?
How far do you like to hike each day?
Are you comfortable with cross country travel (easier to navigate in SEKI because you can see landmarks, unlike the eastern forests where I grew up)?

1. About a month from now, give or take. Depends on funds, outside conditions, awesomeness of other parks. Kings is at the end of my journey.

2. How much is there to see? I'm a backcountry fan. Spent a summer in Yellowstone, and got into some far out nooks and crannies. How long does a pretty good sampling of the park take? Would be happy to spend at least a couple days back country, hopefully more, but... $$

3. I am trying to trail run before starting the day (6 miles). I can backpack 15-20 a day if I need to (in addition), and the terrain isn't insane. Day tripping, from established camp... 30? Not entirely sure, and I'm a pain glutton, so err towards 10-15 round-trip if it's dire survival conditions.

4. I better be, otherwise I'm fu:foot: . . Short answer is yes. Not talking about driving in the Pac. Northwest during winter. Drove the southern route a few months back. Did you mean am I comfortable orienteering, or driving? More comfortable driving, but have orienteered before, and will get it right eventually after a couple false starts.

Zero

 

[Kkimo]

For the north rim of the grand canyon, the one big piece of advice, be prepared for a huge temperature change. When I was there (it was late may) there was snow on the rim, and 40º highs, and 95º at the river. Considering how much later you're going, be prepared for the same temps at the top (you never know) and much hotter temps at the bottom.

One other thing, since you're doing death valley, you may want to look into Mt. Whitney. While they're booked far in advance for trail permits, they do reserve some for issue at the portal.

 

[oruacat2]

The very first thing you need to do is buy a Golden Eagle pass from the National Park Service - it will get you into all NPs. You do not want to be paying the individual rate at every single park you visit.

 

[eisman]

For KC & Sequoia I always liked Cold Springs, but it's a pain to get to; that's part of why I like it though, not as much traffic. It's also nice down by the Lost Grove, provided there's not a lot of families. If you stay up around Wolverton the walk to Pear Lake is good. I've seen a lot of bears on that trail. Sequoia gets a lot less traffic than Yosemite, and it can be pretty empty there even in summer (depending on where you go). But it's high up, cool, big trees, great views, and lot's of wildlife. One of my favorite parks. I love to walk down where they cut the trees a hundred years ago and just wander around.

Death Valley is not a joke, it's bad in the summer. The places I like are hard to get to; the racetrack and Mohagany Flats. The road to the racetrack is not something I'd recommend to anyone without 4 wheel drive, in some cases the trail is less than a car wide. Get stuck back there it will be a week before they find you. The flats is better, and goes up into the Panamints. Nice to be higher as it's relatively cooler. Still not a great road though. for something a lot simpler, go out by Zabriski Point and walk all you want. You can go out the north end of the valley and up to 395; you meet it around Tehatchapi.

In Zion the campgrounds are all along the river, I try to go as far up the canyon as possible and find someplace quiet.

You might want to look at the State parks, in many cases they're even less used. Stay away from Whitney Portals; it will be jammed with folks doing the peak in the open season. Expect it to be sold out every day, in advance. There are some really nice ones on 395 between Mammoth and June Lake. Up in the trees, and cool.

As for the car, do everything before you leave. Any place near a NP is going to be making a living off tourists.

 

[dipbait]

If youre going to the Badlands the Black hills are right there . If you go in August you will have to put up with a million motorcycles. Maybe you would like that . I hated it.