Hunting knife help

MOhunter92

MOhunter92

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Mar 8, 2014
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Hello everyone, I'm sure this has been beat to death but I haven't gotten all of the answers I'm looking for. I'm currently looking at a survive gso 3.5 for a hunting knife. I will be using it almost exclusively for field dressing game. Skinning, gutting, ect. It will sometimes have to go through small bones. I might use it a bit for other associated camping and outdoor things.

I cannot decide which steel to go with CPM 20CV or CPM 3V. I love 3V and know it takes such a fine edge. I can get them screaming sharp. But I've never used 3V for anything that involves contact with blood and guts, moisture ect. I don't know how it will hold up from corrosion. I have no experience with CPM 20CV.

I basically want something that will keep and hold it's edge, not chip on me while I'm dressing and skinning game and just be ideal for hunting. Which would be better for my tasks? Will the 3V pit and rust if it isn't oiled or wiped down shortly after contact with animal fluids? I need some help here I'm probably thinking too much
 
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MOhunter92 said:
Will the 3V pit and rust if it isn't oiled or wiped down shortly after contact with animal fluids?
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No, as long as it's wiped down shortly after contact with animal fluids. If you are wearing pants, you should be able to do that. :thumbup:

That said, if the wipe down happens more than 10-15 seconds after contact with the animal fluids...the blade will explode in a puff of orange smoke.

Haven't you heard the tales of that happening to all those plainsmen and buffalo hunters with their Green Rivers? Happened all the time!



Yes...you are thinking too much.
 
marcinek said:
No, as long as it's wiped down shortly after contact with animal fluids. If you are wearing pants, you should be able to do that. :thumbup:

That said, if the wipe down happens more than 10-15 seconds after contact with the animal fluids...the blade will explode in a puff of orange smoke.

Haven't you heard the tales of that happening to all those plainsmen and buffalo hunters with their Green Rivers? Happened all the time!



Yes...you are thinking too much.
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......what if I'm not wearing pants.. Haha 😂 I decided on 20cv. Heard it really holds an edge well and I won't have to worry about any pitting or rust. I have a couple tool steel folders one is PD#1 which is almost exactly like 3V but a bit tougher (so I've heard) and it even has a digicam coating and it. Develops rust just sitting in my house every once in a while. It wipes right off though and I keep the blade oiled and waxed, every once in a while it comes back though.
 
Looks like a fair design. I was expecting you to say that you had to find your own way of attaching it to a belt via a Tek-lock or paracord (do it yourself). Glad that you really like the knife and it should work very well for a hunting knife. You made a good choice.

The one that I keep looking at is made by Buck for Cabelas (Alaskan Guide series). A bit pricey for me just to buy and try out when I already have hunting type blades. I use Dozier customs for the most part in D2. But I keep looking... may wait until I visit a Cabelas store and handle it. One opened north of Atlanta and I am looking for an excuse to make a visit.
 
22-rimfire said:
Looks like a fair design. I was expecting you to say that you had to find your own way of attaching it to a belt via a Tek-lock or paracord (do it yourself). Glad that you really like the knife and it should work very well for a hunting knife. You made a good choice.

The one that I keep looking at is made by Buck for Cabelas (Alaskan Guide series). A bit pricey for me just to buy and try out when I already have hunting type blades. I use Dozier customs for the most part in D2. But I keep looking... may wait until I visit a Cabelas store and handle it. One opened north of Atlanta and I am looking for an excuse to make a visit.
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Thanks man. It's definitely gonna make a perfect skinning and field dress knife, I wanted one knife to devote to that kind of abuse, this fits the bill to a T. Go check it out at cabelas, I also highly recommend one of these if you are looking for a similar knife for processing game.
 
MOhunter92 said:
Hello everyone, I'm sure this has been beat to death but I haven't gotten all of the answers I'm looking for. I'm currently looking at a survive gso 3.5 for a hunting knife. I will be using it almost exclusively for field dressing game. Skinning, gutting, ect. It will sometimes have to go through small bones. I might use it a bit for other associated camping and outdoor things.

I cannot decide which steel to go with CPM 20CV or CPM 3V. I love 3V and know it takes such a fine edge. I can get them screaming sharp. But I've never used 3V for anything that involves contact with blood and guts, moisture ect. I don't know how it will hold up from corrosion. I have no experience with CPM 20CV.

I basically want something that will keep and hold it's edge, not chip on me while I'm dressing and skinning game and just be ideal for hunting. Which would be better for my tasks? Will the 3V pit and rust if it isn't oiled or wiped down shortly after contact with animal fluids? I need some help here I'm probably thinking too much
Click to expand...

Sorry for throwing water on this fire but I really have to ask; have you ever tangled with any sort of dead animal, for the purpose of sustenance, before? The 'chipping/corrosion/screaming sharp/small bones/animal fluids' comments all make me suspect you watch way too much TV and haven't been outdoors practicing nearly enough.
Dead deer at the side of the road (if their eyes are still clear and the bodies haven't bloated) have me gleaning hind quarters and tenderloins into the back of an econocar with only a reasonably sharp SAK on the way to work. My hunting gear is more elaborate but caked-on fat and body fluids, from doing a thorough job in the woods, has never been a cause for questions either.
 
The truth is that you can get by with a SAK for field dressing chores. I used a slip joint for years and it always worked just fine. But is certainly fun to buy a nice knife. The corrosion issue with blood is not a big deal. You just wash off the knife or wipe it off on something and rinse it off later in a mud puddle.
 
300Six said:
Sorry for throwing water on this fire but I really have to ask; have you ever tangled with any sort of dead animal, for the purpose of sustenance, before? The 'chipping/corrosion/screaming sharp/small bones/animal fluids' comments all make me suspect you watch way too much TV and haven't been outdoors practicing nearly enough.
Dead deer at the side of the road (if their eyes are still clear and the bodies haven't bloated) have me gleaning hind quarters and tenderloins into the back of an econocar with only a reasonably sharp SAK on the way to work. My hunting gear is more elaborate but caked-on fat and body fluids, from doing a thorough job in the woods, has never been a cause for questions either.
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Hahaha I've been hunting 13 years dude. Try again.
 
22-rimfire said:
The truth is that you can get by with a SAK for field dressing chores. I used a slip joint for years and it always worked just fine. But is certainly fun to buy a nice knife. The corrosion issue with blood is not a big deal. You just wash off the knife or wipe it off on something and rinse it off later in a mud puddle.
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It is on tool steels. My PD1 tool steel strider which is the carpenters version equivalent of 3v gets small rust spots and actually has a small pit from barely any use. And it gets treated with aegis and frog lube daily. That's why I was worried about 3v.
 
I know you already purchased your knife, congrats. But, I would like to tell you that after cleaning and quartering two elk and a deer over the past three years I can say that 3v is pretty stain resistant. We have let them sit without wiping them off for hours upon hours during our hike out. None of the 3v knives (BRKT lil Canadian, mini Canadian and ultralite bushcrafter) have so much as stained. Regardless you made a great steel choice for hunting. Enjoy
 
Ridley75 said:
I know you already purchased your knife, congrats. But, I would like to tell you that after cleaning and quartering two elk and a deer over the past three years I can say that 3v is pretty stain resistant. We have let them sit without wiping them off for hours upon hours during our hike out. None of the 3v knives (BRKT lil Canadian, mini Canadian and ultralite bushcrafter) have so much as stained. Regardless you made a great steel choice for hunting. Enjoy
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Thanks man. I've used plenty of s30v for my processing but I wanted to try something new and have one knife in my collection specifically for getting bloody and gutty. Lol and I've also found myself that my 3V strider I got recently has never rusted or pitted yet through use, but my pd1 does easily if it's not wiped down after each use. I think I let that get to me before I got the knife, 3V is one of my personal favorites. Some of my hunting takes me to spots that I have no means of protecting the blade from corrosion other than wiping it off for days, my pd1 needs more than that so that's what made my decision.
 
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