Husqvarna promotional hatchet

[daizee]

I JUST NOW bought a Hultafors-made Husqvarna hatchet.
The local Husqy dealer had an extra promo hatchet. I called asking about axes because of this thread, and he had only the spare promo hatchet, which he offered to sell me for a song. So... I grabbed it and just got back.
Somewhat unfortunately it's the newer one. I was hoping it would be the older swedish-style head with the ears and the slightly closed bit. But at flea market prices I wasn't gonna complain.

This is marked 1-1/4lb, 0.6kg (not an exact conversion) with a 15" OAL.
The edge bevel is WAY too thick. I'll work that down. I think the profile overall could be thinner. Clearly this is a budget HB, but it's marked HB very deeply on the head. The fore/aft balance is good.

I was particularly interested in the scandanavian haft. It has a nice shape but is a bit thick as well. I may thin it out somewhat.
The haft is marked Husqvarna.

It seems this was from the in-between period where they had dual markings, and later HB is making Husqy-branded heads too. This is the same NEW version hatchet reviewed by woodtrekker: http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2011...el-review.html As this is an in-betweener, I wouldn't take my comments as representative of the current line.

I wouldn't buy this one for full price, but I didn't pay even half that. My plans for this one.... we'll see. It NEEDS edge work badly. Since this one is not historic, but decent steel and CHEAP, I may modify it a bunch. Either that or possibly put it as-is only an 18-20" handle as a light truck axe.

 

[daizee]

Some pictures - note the obtuse edge bevel.
Then some pictures of pictures of ideas for modification.

whatcha think?
The head definitely needs work. The handle is quality, I'd like to preserve it. Modifying the underside will require removing the head, however. Never done that. It has a circular metal wedge in addition to the usual wooden wedge.

If this wasn't already hardened I'd put the cheeks on my friend's 36"-radius platen and make this thing really work. I suppose we could anneal and re-heat-treat it.... hm.

 

[Double Ott]

"The handle is quality, I'd like to preserve it. Modifying the underside will require removing the head, however. Never done that. It has a circular metal wedge in addition to the usual wooden wedge."

I think you'll have a tough time removing that circular wedge and saving the haft. If your successful, please let us know how you accomplished it.

My regards, Double Ott

 

[G-pig]

I would thin the edge and call it good. I almost never find it neccesary to choke up, and when I do I have never wished I had more room above the throat of the handle.

 

[Square_peg]

You can remove the metal wedge. Just drill a pair of 1/8" holes in the wood wedge just inside and outside the round metal wedge. Then tap a pair of needle-nose vise grips down into the holes. Clamp the vise grips closed and pull them out with a straight claw framing hammer.

 

[G-pig]

It should also be said that the eats/lug and general shape of most of these swedish axes are not traditional swedish patterns. They are based off of american patterns. Ive emailed with the guy who sent an Emerson Stevens axe over to sweden, which they used as a model for the american felling axe. The smaller ones are scaled down versions.

 

[CedarEater]

You can remove the metal wedge. Just drill a pair of 1/8" holes in the wood wedge just inside and outside the round metal wedge. Then tap a pair of needle-nose vise grips down into the holes. Clamp the vise grips closed and pull them out with a straight claw framing hammer.

Wooh! Nice trick pegs. With the round metal wedge I would think you would drill your holes in the wooden wedge making a set of holes at the top and a set of holes at the bottom and then work the top and bottom alternately to wiggle it out without ever touching the wood of the haft. Brilliant!

 

[daizee]

Wooh! Nice trick pegs. With the round metal wedge I would think you would drill your holes in the wooden wedge making a set of holes at the top and a set of holes at the bottom and then work the top and bottom alternately to wiggle it out without ever touching the wood of the haft. Brilliant!

Yeah, I'm digging this technique, at least on paper. Thanks, Pegs!

I'm away at work for a couple days, so more axey fun will have to wait for the weekend.

 

[rwn2000]

Now, how did i know Pegs' claw hammer would have a wooden handle? and not fiberglass.

 

[bearhunter]

I've got one if those. I took the handle off (hated it) and put the head on a 19" haft. It's alright now!

 

[daizee]

bearhunter, you now have a hatchet head on a 19" handle, sort of like a small forest axe? That's kind of what I'm thinking.

Tonight I weighed the whole thing on the trigger pull gauge and it is 2.25lb. Kinda heavy. I'm curious about the actual weight of the head. The handle is beefy.

I waved the head at some power tools, then stones. Then back to files.
Got a little sloppy, then got evenly sloppy on the other side.
Figure once it's dialed in I can go back with some 180grit and clean up the cheeks.
This thing takes a WICKED edge. Holy crap.

I didn't get a chance to fix or re-make the weak edge cover... was working on one for the 3lb plumb.

These pics are from earlier. I've since slimmed the bevel shoulders back a bit more.
It actually splits wood now and can make some shavings. Carving? eh. It'll never be thin.