Hwat compound to buy? White, green, aaargh!!

Joined
Sep 23, 1999
Messages
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What kind of compound should I get to put a satin finish or somewhere between a satin and mirror finish on a blade? I was going to get some green compound in a big bar but I have recently read of others using white. What should I do? Also, what should I use to finish micarta and dymondwood? Finally, do I even need a compound for a satin finish?
Thanks!

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"Come What May..."
 
White compound is for mirror polishing, and the green stuf is for removing small scratches and such ( at least in Denmark ).
I use white when buffing micarta and dymondwood, and for a little extra shine I use chrome polish.
For that satin finish I wouldn't polish but sand to about 600 grit, but I'm sure one of the guys out there has a better idea.
 
Chosing compounds by colour alone is not very scientific when one considers that there are about a dozen different compound formulations available in Canada which are green in colour. Each is formulated to do a specific job.

The one thing that simplifies the matter is that there is only one major supplier of compounds in our market place, Jackson Lea.

To get a very fine satin finish I would suggest mirror finishing the blade then doing the satin with a fine wet sandpaper, maybe 600 or 1000 grit. I find this route easier and faster than sanding in stages until I rreach the finish I want. An alternative is to use a "greaseless" compound (about 400 grit) on a wheel with a little buffing compound on it to soften the effect.

For buffing stainless or high carbon steel I use Jackson Lea's #91 Stainless Steel Cut and Colour compound after fine sanding on a 400 grit Cork Superfinishing belt from 3M or Hermes Abrasives. The cork belt is top dressed with the same #91 compound.

The same compound polishes dark woods and micarta very well.

Light coloured handle materials stain with the #91 so I use a #60 Chrome buffing compound on them. #91 is dark green and the #60 is white.

The #91 is more aggressive and will remove scratches faster but both give a high mirror finish that are indistinguishable from each other.

I only quote names and part numbers in this case because with one supplier in the market place there is no option. The part #s are valid only in Canada but the same compounds are manufactured elsewhere under different #s.

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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 
I didn't know you have so many to choose from.I've had a lot of trouble finding the three compounds I use.I have a brown one for copper, brass and alu - green for stainless - white for mirror on stainless. I guess you have the better dealers over there. I haven't been able to find a beltgrinder like the ones you use either - just cannot buy that kind of tools in Denmark.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm from Southern Alberta George! How's it going EH!! Anyways, I am going to Calgary to teh House of Tools real soon and they have a knife making section with stacks of buffing compound in sizes that look like gold bars. I just wanted as much info about compounds as I could gather before heading up there. It sounds like there is MUCH MUCH more for me to learn... EXACTLY the way I like it! If there wasn't more to learn about knives I would probably learn to knit instead!
 
One of the best ways that I have found to produce a Satin finish other than by hand and grit paper is to use a cork belt in 600 and 1000 grit. Itwill produce a very fine finish and they last a long time. About $20.00 through True Grit I think and when you get them they actually look like a 36 grit belt. The cork works well and has been a good producer for me. I bought mine when they were on sale just to try, and am I ever glad that I did.

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Curtis Wilson -
Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw
 
all the above info seems very sound...satin finish doesnt need a polish...one thing though...most people dont realize....white is the same exact compound as green with about 50% less abrasive in it.....they make a satin finish compound....you put it on kinda wet and let it dry....it makes sparks.. about 200 grit or so....you cant use that wheel for much else after that....i agree with most of the guys..hand finish is the best look and the easiest to do...you dont have to take it down to a very fine finish unless you want to.....and with the cpm steels you cant....

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
For satin finish I use etching by aqua regia for a few seconds. Deep of color is possible change by the change of etching time.
Pavel
 
A while ago I bought a package of compunds from Canadian Tire and today I used the 'grey' compound on some brass bolsters on a knife I am making (my first knife that included more than sticking some Micarta scales on a pre-ground/heat treated/finished blade!!!) It made the brass shine up nice and pretty! I think it could use another compound, and I think a finer compound (red)came in the package. I'm going to buy another buffing wheel tomorrow and see how it works...
 
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