Hydralic press dies and forging

R Dockrell

R Dockrell

Joined
Mar 26, 2000
Messages
658
The new press is up and running, its a monster.
I did a quick billet tonight as a sample run. Nothing fancy just 6 alternating layers of 52100 and 5160. Thats as big a stack as my minie forge would take. Welded, drawen and cut 3 times to a total of 54 layers. I know thats pretty bold but it was more of a test of the press than anything.
A few problems came to light that I have not encountered before using other presses.
first how smooth do the dies have to be? I seem to be having a problem with flux and crud sticking to the dies.
Secondly I made up just one set of dies more to come soon. This set takes about a 2.5 inch bite. It seemed ok for the initial weld and flattening but is this a little to much for a draw die? How much of a bite should a draw die have? The press is a 30 ton job.
PS the billet was random patterned tomorrow I will grind it to show the patturn and see what it looks like. Then I will bend it as much as I can to test the welds. Can this effectivly be done cold in the unhardened state? Bar is about 1.5 X .25 X 7 inches.

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Robert
Flat Land Knife Works
rdblad@telusplanet.net
http://members.tripod.com/knifeworks/index.html
 
Robert, Good to hear the press is done! My dies collect crud too so I chip and/or grind it off between heats. If they are smooth it doesnt stick so bad. Ive alsways wanted to spray them with Pam but havent tried it yet. Mine are about 2" across and have a slight radious on both top and bottom. I usually draw with them and flatten with a 8" long set. Another set of 3" flat ones do a good job welding. After the weld I place a mild steel shelf in the forge so the billet isnt laying in the flux. I start wire brushing off the flux so the dies dont get flux on them. Turn down the fire a bit or decarb can start. As far as the bending test, why dont you grind a blade and heat treat it. If there are any cold shuts they will show up then. Look at the ends after chop sawing, they show up there too. Its fun isnt it? Bruce B
 
Thanks for the info Bruce.
The dies I made have about a 2.5 inch flat with slightly radiused edges. and do work great for welding. I don't thinkd they are agresive enough for drawing dies.
For a draw die how do you think cutting a peice of 2.5 inch diameter solid bar in half lenghtwise and using the two opposing halves as top and bottom dies.
Rain drop and ladder next to come, along with your sugestion of about a 6 to 8 inch flattening die.

Sorry George, its been "happening" for to long and I had to finish it.

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Robert
Flat Land Knife Works
rdblad@telusplanet.net
http://members.tripod.com/knifeworks/index.html
 
I think the 2,5" solid bar in half radius is too aggressive. My are more like an 8" radius. A small radius will make the steel too wavy and hard to flatten the waves out. It will also make the patterns radical. Bruce B
 
Ralph
I do not need any more help with the crud sticking. Got problems enough. Thanks for the tip.
jf
 
The dies I use for my inital welds are 3"X6", and I do the first weld all in on shot.
For drawing I use a set of dies that are flat, but only 1 1/2" wide, most of the time there is a stop block in place to make sure things come out even.
To prevent the flux and "gunk" from sticking to the dies, I keep a can of the el-cheapo non-stick cooking spray handy, and give the dies a shot before the first weld.

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Ed Caffrey "The Montana Bladesmith"
ABS Mastersmith
www.caffreyknives.com
 
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