I’m finally getting started… yet again

Joined
Oct 26, 2005
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A year or so ago I became interested in forging blades, and at one point was just about ready to get started in the hobby. Sadly, things happened and it was delayed until recently. I'm back now with only a few questions.

The forge which I inted to build is relatively simple- it'll be a 7" diameter and 12" length pipe with 1 1/2" of Kaowool insulation, covered by a thin layer of ITC-100. That's about a 284" volume I believe. Do yall have an idea of whether or not it would take more than a single Reil EZ Burner to effectivley heat the forge to steel working temperature?

Two other things:
-Is my forge design terribly ineffective from the dimensions I gave you? It seems to have what is require for a knife forge.
-Is there a more effective, home built atmospheric burner than the Reil one?

Thanks a ton!
 
Can you fire it up yet? Sounds like it will work to me. Sometimes bigger aint better.... as long as the steel will fit in and you dont get it too hot, and it will flow under a hammer, I say what are you waiting for?

Be sure and let us know how it goes :)
 
I can't quite fire it up yet. My burner is missing a part, the choke isn't complete yet, and my Kaowool hasn't arived yet. If this forge doesn't have any problems- it should be up and running within a week. Thanks for the reply.
 
I can't remember exactly, but Ron Reil's website (or one of the various links off of it) listed approximate forge sizes (in cubic inches) that different burners would bring to welding heat. I'm thinking that the basic Reil burner was listed at 280 :confused: Don't know for sure but that number is in my head for some reason.
That will vary depending on the number, and size of the openings in your forge, and how well it is insulated though. I would guess that you're on the right track with what you have though and it will at least get you to forging temperatures.
I will say that I would insulate more than 1.5" if you can. 1.5" should be fine, but more is always better. The forge will be more efficient for one thing, and what I like more is the fact that the outside of the forge stays cooler. I have 4" of insulation in my forge and the shell doesn't get uncomfortable to touch until you've had it going wide open for about 20 minutes. In a small shop, this becomes a lot bigger issue than you would think :eek: :D
 
Okay, I'll browse Reil's site again.

As far as opening go, I think that I'll just use fire brick to block the back and thin out the front opening as needed.

How large is your forges internal diameter?

Thanks.
 
My forge is about 7" in diameter(inside diameter, the shell is an old propane tank), but its more of a vertical forge. Its 6" or 7" high inside. Gives it a volume somewhere between 230 and 270 cubic inches. Has one opening, which is about 10 square inches.
I've been using a modified reil burner, something I came up with because it was easier to get materials for. I put a blower on it when I'm forging because its more efficient on propane. Use it as a venturi for heat treating to cut down on scaling. It will easily get to forging temp without the blower. Its not the best design in the world, I'm actually planning on building a 2nd one sometime soon for working on longer peices.

What you've got so far ought to do just fine, you can always tweak things as needed when you get it running.
 
Just a suggestion. You said you are going to use ITC 100 to cover the wool. You might want to put some satanite over the wool and then cover the satanite with the ITC 100. The satanite is much cheaper and you can make sure the wool is completely covered. You dont want any wool to not be covered as breathing the particles is not good for you. Also, the ITC reflects the heat and it gets less efficient over time so if you have some left over you can 'rejuvinate' the forge by putting another layer on down the road. Just a thought...

Ryan
 
Okay, cool.
I'll see if I can get my hands on the satanite and then change the forge dimensions for 3".
 
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