I’m stumped on this handle issue.

[Jolson1]

Hello all. This is my first post. I’ve looked around but can’t find an answer for my question. I don’t use a lot of forums but I’m really stumped here. I am cerakoting my next bunch of knives. I can’t figure how to shape the micarta handles after cerakote without marking up the finish. I have considers doing it before but can’t figure how to only temporarily affix the handles so they can stay attached sturdy enough to go through the shaping process. Any and all insights would be so greatly appreciated. Thank you all much.

 

[seanj]

Hello all. This is my first post. I’ve looked around but can’t find an answer for my question. I don’t use a lot of forums but I’m really stumped here. I am cerakoting my next bunch of knives. I can’t figure how to shape the micarta handles after cerakote without marking up the finish. I have considers doing it before but can’t figure how to only temporarily affix the handles so they can stay attached sturdy enough to go through the shaping process. Any and all insights would be so greatly appreciated. Thank you all much.

What kind of fasteners are you using? I believe Corby bolts would work for you. With Corby's you can remove and install your handles multiple times. They are quite sturdy

 

[Jolson1]

I have been using pins but I think you might be right. I could probably at least get 90 percent of the handle done prior then finish the bolt grinding when I finally pin them on permanently. Thanks for the thoughtful response.

 

[Hengelo_77]

Use hidden aligment pins

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

What kind of fasteners are you using? I believe Corby bolts would work for you. With Corby's you can remove and install your handles multiple times. They are quite sturdy

Corby bolts are not removable once the handle is shaped. The slot is ground away in shaping. There are other types of bolts that can be used on take-down handles that will work better. Most have Torx or hex heads.

 

[A.McPherson]

Even if you plan to use Corby bolts as the permanent fastener you could use something like Chicago screws to put your handle together while you work on it, then change then out after you get finished with the handle shaping...

 

[weo]

The slot is ground away in shaping. There are other types of bolts that can be used on take-down handles that will work better. Most have Torx or hex heads.

Or you could just cut/file in a new screwdriver slot. I made myself a set of removable corbys in each size by cutting the screwdriver slot deeper and grinding the head down. I also cut the barrel a little shorter as well as the threaded portion. This allows me, on full tang damascus blades, to attach the scales, shape them, remove them, etch and polish the damascus, then permanently attach the scales. Then all I have to do is grind/sand the new corbys flush.

 

[Natlek]

Hello all. This is my first post. I’ve looked around but can’t find an answer for my question. I don’t use a lot of forums but I’m really stumped here. I am cerakoting my next bunch of knives. I can’t figure how to shape the micarta handles after cerakote without marking up the finish. I have considers doing it before but can’t figure how to only temporarily affix the handles so they can stay attached sturdy enough to go through the shaping process. Any and all insights would be so greatly appreciated. Thank you all much.

If you drill right/tight size hole in tang and scale you can do that . Use temporarily pins , then push them out and use longer one , peening them and grind them....i do it many times without any problem .

 

[Hengelo_77]

If you use three hidden 1/8" pins, getting the scales off will be a bigger chalange then keeping them on.
Friction will keep them from comming off the tang.

 

[seanj]

Corby bolts are not removable once the handle is shaped. The slot is ground away in shaping. There are other types of bolts that can be used on take-down handles that will work better. Most have Torx or hex heads.

Thanks for clarifying. I was aware of that but didn't make it very clear. I've shaped handles with Corby bolts up to the point the slot needs to be ground away. Torx or hex heads are certainly the correct answer.

 

[Harley Boatman]

I personally make my knives almost always with removable scales. My first thought was this -> Could you rough grind/profile the scales *before* you cerakote? I prefer to finish the scales, disassemble, then etch/hand sand (in your case this would be the cerakote step), and then reattach the scales. This way I don't scratch up the blade while doing the scales.

Here's the screws I use along with aluminum standoffs for my scales:
8-32-x-1-4-button-head-socket-cap-screw-black-oxide-stainless-steel-qty-20

And here's how I fashion the holes for this style of scales:

 

[Flatlander bowie]

Superglue and sacrificial pins.
A few dots of superglue will work with micarta and G10 to hold it in place while grinding. If doing fancy wood scales use wooden dowels or unpeened loose fitting pins.