How To I’m swimming upstream in the traditional folders world. Trying to make snap, walk, and talk all weaker. Ideas?

[MTHall720]

Due to pain and weakness in fingers I’m trying to make all folders open and close very easily. So, I want the opposite of what lots of people do who are into traditional folders. I do Not want a tight blade with a heavier pull, and lots of walk and talk, plus great snap when closing. I also want to be able open the blade without relying on the nail nick alone. Other than opening closing several hundred times are there other ways to accomplish my goals?

Here is what I’ve tried so far:
1) Lubes. lots of different ones including Latama, Blue lube (BM), Breakfree CLP, Sentry Solutions, Nano, WD40, Rem oil and more.
2) Opened the blade at the sharpeat
angle and left open for weeks at a time (pics below)
3) With lockbacks I have pressed in the lockback release as fully as possible and left a Clamp on it to hold it down. This is attempting to make the release to push in with fairly light pressure

Sound awful? Probably makes traditional guys frown but this is what I have done so far. It has helped but I wish now I had kept my two huge toothpicks slipjoints that opened and closed with great ease. Thanks so much for All input.

 

[old4570]

Hmmmm .. The back springs & the part of the blade that runs on it ... Are often rather rough finished , this causes DRAG / or resistance to opening ..
Also depending on how tightly the blade is pinned ..

Some sort of polishing compound ... Rather than lube . something like Autosol .. This should help polish all surfaces running against each other ..

It's also a great way to wear out the knife / or should that be / loosen the knife .. But they can be tightened I suppose ? Side play ..

Other option ? Partially open the knife so as to push out the back spring ,, .......................... And gently ( GENTLY ) grind the back spring ..

What ever you do !!!! Buy a dirt cheap knife , and use it to test your process ..

Or send the knives to some one $$ to rebuild them for you ...

Or buy easy to open knives ? Like Auto's . if they are legal in your local ... Spring assisted is popular in the USA .

But if your into the classic slip joints .. ??

What ever you do , do it slowly and carefully ..

What is it they say , you can remove material - but you can't put it back !

 

[Wild Willie]

I think a few fellas in the traditional forum have had some success jamming a pick into the space between blade and back spring and lightly prying on the spring to remove some tension.

Other than that there isn't much I've found that will make a bear trap spring workable. The easiest solution might just be to contact your preferred dealer and request they find you an example of whatever model you're looking for with a lighter pull. There are also models among brands that are known for lighter pulls. As far as the nail nick solution, I'd use a Dremel with a sanding drum to install easy open notches on the knives I was having trouble with (probably difficult on knives with multiple blades), or seek out single blade knives with a lot of exposed spine to facilitate pinch opening.

 

[JC972]

I don’t know if you’d want to try this, but I did and could tell a difference. I have a jumbo stockman and the Spey blade has a bear trap spring. I opened the blade to where the back spring was sticking out of the back of the handle and I took a belt sander to it. I thinned the spring some and it’s not flush with the handle anymore but I don’t care. I want it useable, not perfect. I didn’t thin it enough in my opinion but if I’d went any more I’d have been sanding handle material. You might get a needle file set and file the radius of the tangs so they’re easier to open? If you decide to do this I’d practice on some throw away knives first because it’d be easy to wreck one doing this stuff. If all else fails and you have a hard sprung knife you’re set on carrying, you can keep a coin with you and use that to open the knife maybe but be very careful doing this.

 

[Wild Willie]

I know this probably isn't ideal either, but you could also look into friction folders. No springs to fight with, and those with screw construction would allow you to set your blade tension to make opening easier, along with blades that have an extended tang to wrap your hand around it might be your easiest solution.

 

[old4570]

I know this probably isn't ideal either, but you could also look into friction folders. No springs to fight with, and those with screw construction would allow you to set your blade tension to make opening easier, along with blades that have an extended tang to wrap your hand around it might be your easiest solution.

The ball indent knives ( Friction folders ) ..
So the ball indent holds the knife open = No lock ! ................ ( Yeah ! ) Kizer has a sale on right now , up to 50% off on some models .. I think there was a ball indent knife @ 50% off

 

[Wild Willie]

The ball indent knives ( Friction folders ) ..
So the ball indent holds the knife open = No lock ! ................ ( Yeah ! ) Kizer has a sale on right now , up to 50% off on some models .. I think there was a ball indent knife @ 50% off

I meant more along the lines of the svord peasant, opinels, and higonokami. The svord being the only one on that list that's screwed together. Michael Norris makes some classy looking friction folders, though I've never handled one in person. Ohta has a line of them as well, and I just noticed some posted in the exchange by one of our fine makers on the forum.

 

[dundak]

You can glaze the backsprings. You use fine abrasive wheel or belt along the back of the knife to thin the backsprings a tad. Does not take much and be careful around the center pin area.

 

[MTHall720]

Thanks very much for all the information!