I ain't the Doc

Chameleonbear

Chameleonbear

Joined
Aug 14, 2008
Messages
9,366
My videos are NO where near as good...


However I did some chopping today on a downed oak tree. I was trying to get some wood for a fire this evening so I figured "hell I'll make a video that way I can get some constructive criticism and maybe get better at what I'm doing"

In that vein, here it is:
 
You're doing it all wrong! ;)


Jk


It dose look like oak. I would cut out a wider v though. That's all I got for ya bud.
 
Yea id agree a little wider v then just make sure each swing counts, bring the blade above your head and come down with some authority. i also sometimes take alternating swings left side of the v then right but down to the middle to get bigger hunks with each swing. feet shoulder width apart with a fighting type stance, my right foot positioned just a little bit behind my left and use my core strength while striking.

But my real advice would be keep chopping until you get thru it......
 
Advice:
Get the 9, by the time it took you to make the video you would have that log chopped into kindling.

Get an axe or chainsaw less effort but also less fun.
 
I got nothing for you man.
Chopping through a log with a knife is hard work.
Hell, even using a small hatchet can be tough.
But, if you're Stihl looking for advice...:D
 
worldwood said:
Nice plug jonny!
Click to expand...

LOL.
I used to be a landscaper.
I'll support Stihl till the day I die.
Hardworking products that are insanely easy to properly maintain.
Although some of the older Husquvarna's kick ass too.
 
I was more or less doing it for the fun of doing it... I had never done it, and I hadn't had a chance to really do anything like that without lots of people around and looking like a complete tool/idiot so I wanted to practice a bit before people would see. Then once I had been doing it a while, I wanted to know if I was doing it completely wrong.

I know it would have been better if it was a 9 but I don't HAVE a 9 just yet. If they had one at the store today I would have bought it.
 
I have a tip for you............Skip to 1:45 and see how its done :)

[video=youtube;aa82ZAq4xvE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aa82ZAq4xvE&list=PL93A2301E4E4208AA&index=9[/video]
 
I'm no Master chopper, but from a comparative (and kinesthetic-minded) standpoint;
I say first master the "snap cut" then apply it to your chopping... that extra bit of wrist-propelled velocity ices the cake of arm/shoulder momentum.

Or you could "Moose it" and focus on followthru, relying on rotational velocity to accomplish the work. I noticed that he also hit with the center of mass of the cutting edge more in line with the center of the cut stock... but comparing BK-9 on wrist-sized+ tree to BK-7 on leg-sized+ tree makes that comparison both harder, and less meaningful.
<nerd time> But in a vacuum, the center of mass of the cutting edge lying just past the longitudinal axis of the stock to be cut should (theoretically) cancel out most of the rotational (and therefore wasted) motion of the chop. --based on the assumption that you position the contact point of the cut's arc such that any further rotation past contact would impossibly hyper-extend the wrist. </nerd time>

Cheers and have fun practicing what I kindly call "woodland anger therapy"
 
ThePointyEnd said:
I'm no Master chopper, but from a comparative (and kinesthetic-minded) standpoint;
I say first master the "snap cut" then apply it to your chopping... that extra bit of wrist-propelled velocity ices the cake of arm/shoulder momentum.

Or you could "Moose it" and focus on followthru, relying on rotational velocity to accomplish the work. I noticed that he also hit with the center of mass of the cutting edge more in line with the center of the cut stock... but comparing BK-9 on wrist-sized+ tree to BK-7 on leg-sized+ tree makes that comparison both harder, and less meaningful.
<nerd time> But in a vacuum, the center of mass of the cutting edge lying just past the longitudinal axis of the stock to be cut should (theoretically) cancel out most of the rotational (and therefore wasted) motion of the chop. --based on the assumption that you position the contact point of the cut's arc such that any further rotation past contact would impossibly hyper-extend the wrist. </nerd time>

Cheers and have fun practicing what I kindly call "woodland anger therapy"
Click to expand...

But if I consciously rotate my forearms and maintain a shallow swing arc without adjusting my grip, won't I hit a screaming duck hook?
 
ThePointyEnd said:
I'm no Master chopper, but from a comparative (and kinesthetic-minded) standpoint;
I say first master the "snap cut" then apply it to your chopping... that extra bit of wrist-propelled velocity ices the cake of arm/shoulder momentum.

Or you could "Moose it" and focus on followthru, relying on rotational velocity to accomplish the work. I noticed that he also hit with the center of mass of the cutting edge more in line with the center of the cut stock... but comparing BK-9 on wrist-sized+ tree to BK-7 on leg-sized+ tree makes that comparison both harder, and less meaningful.
<nerd time> But in a vacuum, the center of mass of the cutting edge lying just past the longitudinal axis of the stock to be cut should (theoretically) cancel out most of the rotational (and therefore wasted) motion of the chop. --based on the assumption that you position the contact point of the cut's arc such that any further rotation past contact would impossibly hyper-extend the wrist. </nerd time>

Cheers and have fun practicing what I kindly call "woodland anger therapy"
Click to expand...

^^^ That's what I was gonna say. Cept I don't know what half of it really means. :D
 
I'd actually like to hear a Moosy opinion on this. The guys who can chop like that never tell the real secret. I've only attempted that exercise one time and it was at BFG 2011. It hurt my hand.
 
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