I am confused.

R

rutcrazed

Joined
Feb 8, 2013
Messages
162
Ok, all you blade masters out there. Should we try to raise a burr? Shuld we try to avoid a burr? I was watching Murray Carter and even he was feeling for the burr. Sharp Maker K.O manual states for you to raise a burr. Richard J says raise a burr. Please help me to understand since I am new and just starting down this rabbit hole. :D
 
Bottom line, if one is new to learning sharpening:

The best, most reliable and easiest-to-see indicator of a fully-apexed edge is the burr, formed and verified from BOTH sides of the blade's edge. I say BOTH sides, because it's possible to form a completely flat & true bevel on one side, producing a burr folding away from that side, and still not have a fully flat & true bevel on the other side. Forming a new burr from both sides is the best way to guarantee the bevels are fully flat and cleanly intersect at the apex.

With more experience and careful observation of the edge as it's formed, the amount of burr can be minimized. In other words, it's still good to form a small burr at least; the smaller it is, the simpler it'll be to clean it up. With some time & experience, you'll also begin to recognize if your edge is as sharp as it needs to be, based on how it cuts. A fully-apexed edge that's freshly freed of it's burr remnants will cut like a laser. There'll come a time when you'll probably watch more closely for that, than for the burr formation itself. If you find that you're still not 'sure' if the edge is quite there, that's a cue to keep watching for the burr, and then carefully cleaning it up, once it forms.


David
 
Sharpen one side until you raise a burr then sharpen the other side and raise a burr then knock the burr off and viola sharp knife!
 
The essence of sharpening is to raise a burr, and then flip it, and then remove it. As David says, there is no faster or more reliable way to tell you've removed enough steel to make a new cutting edge. When working I am constantly checking for them and at different points along the edge. I also prefer my post grind finishing methods (stropping/backhoning) to be just on the edge of raising another burr.
 
Thanks guys. So if I have this correct. Low grit stones more obvious burr. High grit stones not so obvious. At the high end grits check function of sharpness. I may need to get a scope to aid my progression in this sickness called sharpening. Lol
 
rutcrazed said:
Thanks guys. So if I have this correct. Low grit stones more obvious burr. High grit stones not so obvious. At the high end grits check function of sharpness. I may need to get a scope to aid my progression in this sickness called sharpening. Lol
Click to expand...

Actually, I'd check sharpness (after verifying the burr) at any and all steps, not just at the higher grits. You're essentially correct, in that it's likely you'll see a bigger and more obvious burr from coarser grits. But a big indicator you're really doing everything right is, a fully-apexed edge at the first & coarsest stage should still be extremely sharp, even viciously so. In some cases, you might even like leaving it there, after cleaning up the burrs.


David
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Actually, I'd check sharpness (after verifying the burr) at any and all steps, not just at the higher grits. You're essentially correct, in that it's likely you'll see a bigger and more obvious burr from coarser grits. But a big indicator you're really doing everything right is, a fully-apexed edge at the first & coarsest stage should still be extremely sharp, even viciously so. In some cases, you might even like leaving it there, after cleaning up the burrs.


David
Click to expand...

I can't add much to this. Careful deburring at each stage might not be necessary down the line when you have a specific edge finish in mind, but if you can develop techniques to eliminate the big ones, the smaller ones will be that much easier. Is also a great way to learn about different edge finishes and what they are good at/not good at - no substitute for cut tests and to do that you need to be capable of creating whatever finish you want to examine.

I personally will not advance through a grit progression with any more than the smallest wisp of a burr remaining from a prior level, and prefer to have none.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top