I am frustrated, i cant get the results i want. I need help - BK2 sharpening

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May 16, 2013
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13
Hello.

I am in need of help and advice. I am totally new, and even though everything is guided and easy on my sharpener. I dont seem to be satisfied with the results. I want some advice before there is no knife left. I can already see that some material has been removed

Normally when i use the WorkSharp FieldSharpener. First i make sure to find the burr. I then sharpen the other side until the burr is completely gone on both sides with the coarse, i then move on to the fine grit just to alternate between the two sides a little bit. I then use the ceramic rods og then last i will strop it. (then it looks nice and all that but is not that sharp) I can cut paper, but not slice them. I can also with a few strokes take a "fair" amount of hair of my leg. I would really like if i didnt had to run the blade though the paper to cut. But more just like slice on contact kinda sharp(is that too much to ask from the little FieldSharpener?)

On the pictures its not freshly polished at all, its just to give you guys an idea of the looks .. And sorry if there is any specific rules for picture hosts and all that. I am not completely sure the links is working please say if thats the case.











The only spot that seems to cut paper i the bended/tip part, where i didnt sharpen very much or very well, and there is still a fabric egde.
but with that said i managed to make another knife kinda cut paper.

I think i fail to get the same angles on both sides. towards the handle on one side there is almost no exposed steel that has been sharpended.
What do i do?

I also need help to maintiance(cleaning) of the leather strop and ceramic rods. Which kind of oil do i use on the leather and how do i clean it? And does it matter that there is metal on the rods - i tried to clean with water and dish soap which it says in the manual and it helped, but water got in the leather and rods.

This thread i wrote i frustation, fast and with plenty of grammatic and spelling errors:-)
I love the BK2 knife
Please help
- Emil
 
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First lower your angle by about half. Next use barkeepersfriend on the ceramic it will make it look like new. Lastly use lighter fluid on the leather then a leather conditioner.

After you have done these things your results should be much better.
 
Thanks! Barkeepersfriend and lighter fluid + leather conditioner is on the shopping list.
By lowering my sharpening angle to 10 degree angle, i would no longer be able to use the guides on the sharpener. So how do i get that 10 degree angle precisely without the guides??
 
By looking I would say your way over 20 per side currently and there is no way the steel will hold strong at 10 degrees per side so at minimal shoot for 15 dps. Guides are just a crutch, unless your a robot you angle will vary about 5 dps anyways.
 
I had the same problems when I sharpened my BK2 on the WSKT field sharpener. What I found was kind of one of those O sh!# moments.
1st if you notice, the diamond plates use 20 degree edge guide, the ceramic rods and leather have 25 degree guide. So what you are doing to your edge is putting a 25 degree micro bevel. OK no big deal, a lot of guys swear by micro bevels.
2nd. The BK2 is 1/4 inch thick and weighs a pound. It is very hard for me to lightly strop this beastly blade. As I progressed thru diamonds and the ceramics I had a great edge going (even though I tried to maintain 20 degrees on the ceramics). When I stropped on the thin leather, I lost the edge that the ceramic had polished. What was happening, I was applying too much pressure for the leather and rounding off the apex that I had created and refined on the diamond and ceramics. I quit stropping the BK2 on the work sharp and use my highly custom strop. (paint stirrer and white compound). Problem solved and theory proved.
 
25 dps? That's pretty obtuse, you won't get much edge retention or sharpness from a 50 degree inclusive angle.

That leather looks pretty sad too, being so rough is just going to make it easier to round your edge.
 
25 dps? That's pretty obtuse, you won't get much edge retention or sharpness from a 50 degree inclusive angle.

That leather looks pretty sad too, being so rough is just going to make it easier to round your edge.

Exactly what I thought. I don't really use the guides any way. but some just might follow the directions and end up with that micro bevel.
 
Should i keep use the guides on the diamonds? Should try to get 20 degrees on the ceramic instead of 25. But how do i free hand a 20 degree angle without thise guides? Please make it simple, as said im completely new to knives and sharpening
 
I would go for 20 degrees per side and raise a burr on both sides before going to higher grits, not just one.

Once you finally have your knife sharp again, strop it after use everyday, or once it will reluctantly shave hair. Letting them get dull is a PITA.

ETA: Perfect time for ya to learn how to free hand. Read this article. http://www.knifeart.com/sharfaqbyjoe.html
 
Should i keep use the guides on the diamonds? Should try to get 20 degrees on the ceramic instead of 25. But how do i free hand a 20 degree angle without thise guides? Please make it simple, as said im completely new to knives and sharpening

I'd keep on using 20 deg on the diamonds, as for the ceramic you can use the guides BUT twist the edge slightly away from the guides (as they are set up for edge trailing) about 5 degrees or 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. Once you do this a time or three you will develop a feel for the angle and how it glides on the rods. You will also notice the sound will be smoother and not sound (and feel) gritty. this means that you are following the angle correctly and not taking off just the edge of the grind, but the hole bevel.
I hope this helps. It is really a feel that you will learn, much like using a stone or diamond. It will take time but once you figure it out it is rewarding to have YOUR knife sharpened crazy sharp by YOU.
 
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