I am the only one?

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backwoodsboy

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Aug 3, 2009
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I have just really gotten into collecting case knives i have had a couple of stainless ones over the years ,but now started using more cv knives. Everyone of my case cv knives (yellow medium stockman, yellow mini trapper, and yellow soddie) all have the same problem except the clip point bleade on the stockman , and the mini trapper. after open and closing 8 -+ times they become hard to open and gritty.i think this is due to the softer carbon steel rubbing up against the harder metal the backspring uses. resulting in small flakes of metal in the pivot area. i have tried oiling the joint with 3 in 1 oil but after another eight or so opening/closings it turn gritty agian

I was wondering if any of you have experianced this and maybe have some suggestions on how to fix it.
 
I have never needed to try it, but others have said that a thorough cleaning of the joint area with soap and hot water works well. Dry it very well after the washing.
That should get any residue out of the joints. Then try a little oil in the pivot area and work it back and forth a lot. I would say at least 50 times. If you are getting brown or black colored oil coming out of it, feed it some more oil and keep working it
See if that helps.

If you can't get it to your satisfaction, you can send it in to Case to have them repair it for you.
 
I have 20-30 of them, and never experienced that!! Wonder what is up??
A new knife may have some grinding or polishing debris in it, that needs flushing. Try flooding a few times with WD-40, and blowing it out in between floods.
The blade is usually slightly harder, or the same hardness as the spring, at the tang, depending on how well the tempering was done.
 
Hey 338375, we are "ghosting" each other!!:D:D
 
I wash everything I make out with kerosene, let it dry then oil the joint. It gets every bit of dirt and grit out of the joint as well as not hurting the handle material. I can't speak for celluloid but it won't hurt anything else I've tried. Kerosene is an excellent cleaner.
 
WD 40 works well too, it's probably half kerosene anyways! I have gotten ahold of a few knives that bound up like that and had metal debris in the joint; blasting it with WD40 several times and working the joint a few times usually fixes it right up. Even better if you can blast it clean with compressed air then to get out any leftover grime and excess oil.
 
Will the blade take an edge? Kinda sounds like the heat treat may be off if it won't clean out.
 
from time to time i get a dirty one usually from manuafacturing steps. 1st i get the knive outside of house; not good to be spraying solvents in house. if severe i usr carburator cleaner wait a while then if needed q tips & toothpicks followed by compressed air. when clean i apply remoil to bearing surfaces. if blade movement is still rough means poor machining on touching surfaces, send it back. do'nt use solvents on celluloid & plastics. i ruined scales on some old english celluloid handles with my ignorance.
 
backwoodsboy said:
I have just really gotten into collecting case knives i have had a couple of stainless ones over the years ,but now started using more cv knives. Everyone of my case cv knives (yellow medium stockman, yellow mini trapper, and yellow soddie) all have the same problem except the clip point bleade on the stockman , and the mini trapper. after open and closing 8 -+ times they become hard to open and gritty.i think this is due to the softer carbon steel rubbing up against the harder metal the backspring uses. resulting in small flakes of metal in the pivot area. i have tried oiling the joint with 3 in 1 oil but after another eight or so opening/closings it turn gritty agian

I was wondering if any of you have experianced this and maybe have some suggestions on how to fix it.
Click to expand...


First off you have some misconceptions about your knife. The blade tang is harder than the backspring, not the other way around. If all is made well, there should be no galling between the blade tang and spring. What you are experiancing is what the others have said, factory crud roughing things up. You need to flush out the hinge very well with something. I've used fine oil, WD-40 which is mostly mineral spirts,0) and even warm soap and water and a toothbrush under the tap.

It may take a few tries to get the crud out, but in time you will have a great knife. CV is a great steel.
 
I just soak it in mineral oil, open the joint 1/4 way and hit it with shop air., then oil.
 
I use a quick squirt of Break Free Powder Blast to clean the joint and liners and then a good dab of Break Free CLP.
 
I had the same problem with the case trapper I currently carry. It took longer to show up, but I had it. The blade got difficult to open and gritty. I cleaned it with WD-40 then blew it out and oiled it. Worked fine and no more grittiness, but afterwards it felt as if I had a weak spring. FWIW is was on my spey blade.
 
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