I'd like to make some knives to practice no spin throwing. I'd prefer a dual use KNIFE not a modified spike. I'm looking at 5' - 30' throws. I'm looking at paracord handle with a wrist loop at the end. I tried throwing 25 years ago but it was the spin technique and I was not impressed by it. I'll probably use 1084 tempered around 55 HRC for the tip and edge with the back and spine softened to 40 - 45 HRC. So, patterns, balance, weight, thickness, width, length, technique, and etc. are appreciated. NOTE: I won't sharpen the edge unless I become adept at throwing. But, I would like that option.
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I am thinking about making some throwing knives
- Thread starter Bo T
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I dislike sharpened edges because they will only get dented and unless your gonna use it for combat it is pointless as i only want the point to stick. Not the edge, i consider that still a miss. Check out Flying steel designs, like north wind and ralph thorn models. They are basically perfect for what you have in mind
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I would strongly recommend against a differential temper. I started off making my items with hard tips/soft tails, and soon discovered why its a problem. You'll get major kinks (bends) at the transition point. After reading Bobby Branton's very firm recommendation of consistent thru-hardening, I went that way and never looked back. On the other hand, if you're talking about a functional knife that you might throw in an extraordinary situation (as opposed to a training thrower), a differential temper and/or sharp edge could be appropriate.
Thanks for the plug MEJ!
Thanks for the plug MEJ!
A uniform hardness throughout the knife makes sense. I've made a number of knives using mass produced blades so these would be the start of my stock removal experience.
My idea is to make some throwing knives which would work with the 'no spin' technique. Additionally, the design would need to be adaptable to sheath carry for outdoor activities. From the little that I have seen, I am leaning towards a pattern similar to the Green River Belt Blade. I read that a 'no spin' knife should have a neutral balance. Knives have 3 axis. Does, neutral balance indicate the mass center and geometric center need to meet at the same point on all 3 axis for a 'no spin' knife???
I just finished reading the highlights of Ralph Thorns newer book on combat knife throwing. It turns out that a Green River sheath knife that I just made has close to his ideal balance point. I am not going to throw this knife as it is destined to become a working camp and bushcraft knife. But it illustrates that making a set of throwing knives should not be that difficult. Now, should I use 3/16 or 1/4 inch??
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No, balance generally refers to mass center only on one axis (the long axis), however, in the case of neutral balance, the mass center and geometric center would coincide. It's generally assumed that the knife is symmetrical about the edge plane (i.e. it's not a chisel grind), and asymmetrical from tip to butt (i.e. only one end has a point). Many throwers prefer a knife that is symmetrical about the remaining plane (i.e. a double-edge knife), especially for long-distance throwing, but most do not consider it essential. Ralph Thorn, as you have presumably read, prefers a handle-heavy balance.
3/16 or 1/4 is your preference. There is some in-between stock (approx 7/32") that is available (often in 5160) that is probably the best of both worlds.