I bring you the orange(ish) Benchmade 300SSN Rit Dyed.

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Jan 27, 2012
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So, I was reading the larger Rit dye thread and decided to dye my 300SSN.

I used two dry packs of Sunshine Orange Rit dye in a 3 quart sauce pan. I added a pinch of salt and about two table spoons of white distilled vinegar. (not sure if necessary or even helped but it seemed like the thing to do.)

I suspended the knife from a wooden spoon using .095 string trimmer line tied around one of the standoffs.



I simmered it for about an hour.

Here's the finished results.



Here's a before for reference.



I like it so far.
 
Thanks.

I didn't take it apart because;

1) I'm lazy.

2) I didn't see a real reason to. I read a bunch of Rit Dye threads and there was no real consensus on whether it was necessary.

And no. I like serrations. I cut a lot of thick plasticky stuff at work and use the serrations frequently.
 
How do you feel about the dye around your thumbstud? I think that would upset my delicate sensibilities :rolleyes:
 
How do you feel about the dye around your thumbstud? I think that would upset my delicate sensibilities :rolleyes:

It all came off. I took the pic before I cleaned and relubed it. It looks even better in sunlight.
 
In that case, good work :D The handle turned out really vibrant, it looks almost red instead of orange. :thumbup:
 
In that case, good work :D The handle turned out really vibrant, it looks almost red instead of orange. :thumbup:

Thanks.

It looks different shades based on the light. Indoors it looks more brown / burnt orange.

Here's a pic in the Sun.

 
How is dye not forced into every crevice of this knife, creating loads of corrosion from the water or whatever in it? Unless it is water free? I am unsure whether or not you must add water to RIT dye normally, or if you just had to for this, or if there is no water at all used in this. Hence my asking.

I imagine that liquid like that would just get on in there..... carrying that salt you added and the vinegar....... just begging for corrosion even without water eh?

Looks great though man. Massive upgrade from the Brown G10 I wonder if you could do black like this?

I had no idea you could dye G10 like this. What about Micarta or other materials?

How deep does this penetrate into the G10? Is the Phenolic resin just coated in the dye or did it actually take on the color as well, not just the Linen or whatever they used.
Any other dyes besides RIT can be used? What about like Tye Dye options, possible?

I know...l lots of questions.
 
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How is dye not forced into every crevice of this knife, creating loads of corrosion from the water or whatever in it? Unless it is water free? I am unsure whether or not you must add water to RIT dye normally, or if you just had to for this, or if there is no water at all used in this. Hence my asking.

I imagine that liquid like that would just get on in there..... carrying that salt you added and the vinegar....... just begging for corrosion even without water eh?

Looks great though man. Massive upgrade from the Brown G10 I wonder if you could do black like this?

I had no idea you could dye G10 like this. What about Micarta or other materials?

How deep does this penetrate into the G10? Is the Phenolic resin just coated in the dye or did it actually take on the color as well, not just the Linen or whatever they used.
Any other dyes besides RIT can be used? What about like Tye Dye options, possible?

I know...l lots of questions.

Ummmm... I dunno

I didn't take the scales off before I dunked it. And yes you add water. I used powdered Rit Dye.

I can say there is no rust on the inside of the liners. I sprayed it down with WD-40 after I was done. Is there rust between the liners and the scales? I can't say.

How deep does the dye penetrate? I don't know. It looks the same to me as it did in the pics. I haven't carried it much since then though either.
 
So how is it holding up?


It looks the same. But I haven't carried it much. I got the 300-1 (blue/black G-10) and then I got into Spydercos.

I did get a non-serrated blade for this knife on here. I've been meaning to do a blade swap.
 
How is dye not forced into every crevice of this knife, creating loads of corrosion from the water or whatever in it? Unless it is water free? I am unsure whether or not you must add water to RIT dye normally, or if you just had to for this, or if there is no water at all used in this. Hence my asking.

I imagine that liquid like that would just get on in there..... carrying that salt you added and the vinegar....... just begging for corrosion even without water eh?

Looks great though man. Massive upgrade from the Brown G10 I wonder if you could do black like this?

I had no idea you could dye G10 like this. What about Micarta or other materials?

How deep does this penetrate into the G10? Is the Phenolic resin just coated in the dye or did it actually take on the color as well, not just the Linen or whatever they used.
Any other dyes besides RIT can be used? What about like Tye Dye options, possible?

I know...l lots of questions.

I did this to a Paramilitary 2 about a year ago and it is still holding up well. I boiled my entire knife as well, then just a quick rise afterwards. I'm carrying that knife today and after a year no signs of corrosion. My PM2 is S30V steel, another knife brand might be different.

The dye will tint the color that is already there, perhaps making it a bit darker. I haven't heard of anyone trying it but I don't think it would have an affect on black G10, just the lighter colors.
 
I tried dying my 300sn before, it didn't work, color used was dark green, I only used maybe a 1/3 of a packet of dye and did not simmer for an hour though. Boiled water and took off heat and let soak for 2+ hours in the warm water. Took the scales off.

Going to try it with something your way.

And for guy above, micarta is very easy to dye.
 
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