I could make that for half the price...

[Ale Golem]

Every once in a while I've come across some task that makes me say "I wish I had an axe right now". I work in an office and not the woods so those tasks are few and far between but it still happens and then my fiance brought up camping this summer. I'm thought this is the perfect excuse to have some fun and buy an axe so I started looking around for something fun and functional. Of course Base Camp X and Best Made showed up at the top of my Google search and some quick review searches later convinced me that not only are they far overpriced but they're barely worth a quarter what they're charging. Long story short (too late), I eventually found some people talking about restoring vintage US axes and that sounds more fun, more economical and much more satisfying than buying something off the rack.
I'm looking to end up with a 26" camp/car/sometimes axe that will be useful for a variety smaller tasks, I don't need something to fell a full grown oak. What weight and style head should I be looking for? I've been looking at Jersey heads but I'm wondering if the 3-4+ pound weight will be a but much. Also, are there any particular axe handle manufacturers that are better than others or will any old handle from the local hardware store work?

 

[newsasquatch]

This is a very common question on here, I think asked my most of us at one point, so you can try using the search tool to find more advice. If you're looking for a 26" axe, I wood (get it?) say you should look for a 2.5 # head on ebay. The smaller in weight axe you get the more you'll have to work when chopping. So you'll have to weigh out whats more important to you. Watch this video in its entirety: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPhEk98gd7c
You can search for "plumb axe" "collins axe", "snow & neally", "keen Kutter", "norlund axe", and "Kelly axe" as well as a simple search of "axe" or "vintage axe". You can find some amazing deals. In my experience, you'll have a hard time getting a jersey head in anything less than 3#'s but I could be mistaken. Look for an axe that has only/mostly surface rust, buy it, throw it in a vinegar solution for about 3 hrs if its pure vinegar, scrub it down in ammonia or windex with baking soda to stop the rusting, and hang it on a handle. BOOM! you just got schooled

 

[Ale Golem]

A bunch of really helpful stuff.

That's some great advice, thank you. What price range should I be reasonably expecting? I'd assume triple digits are a rip off and my price point should be whatever I'm comfortable with but an expected average dollar amount would be helpful.

 

[300Six]

If the used axe head has no desirable markings but does have good lineage (post pictures on here and get advice on how test for good steel) and is not too beat up you ought be able to get one for $10-20.

 

[nickzdon]

Best Made also promotes the restoration of vintage axes. They posted a 6 or 7 part series on their company blog a couple years ago about it. I actually wrote it. I can share the links if you like. (be advised, I've updated my sharpening technique since then!) There's also a lot of good info here on the forum.

 

[newsasquatch]

I might've gotten not-the best deal, I bought this off ebay for $46 but I think it was totally worth it

I refurbished it though and it looked like this

 

[jpeeler]

My average for an axe head off eBay is around $40-50. You can get heads cheaper at yard sales maybe, but I only get heads that are gonna be premium once they're cleaned, the above head being a good example. If the head has a good or original handle, expect to about double that. We're talking full-sized heads here, like 3 or 3.5 lbs.

 

[Windwhistler]

Check in junky antique malls and stores too. One nearby that is very close to a flea market has sold me three very nice True Temper Axes in 3 sizes. All had broken handles and all were less than $10 each. I think the boys axe was $6 if I remember correctly. All heads were in great shape and just needed sharpening.

 

[Ale Golem]

Best Made also promotes the restoration of vintage axes. They posted a 6 or 7 part series on their company blog a couple years ago about it. I actually wrote it.

I've looked over the tutorial there as well as their paint tutorial. I have to say I'm impressed the company put out the resources for people to DIY a project that they sell for a premium. There's also a great tutorial over at The Art of Manliness.

 

[Ale Golem]

Looking at this guy on a popular auction site; I'm thinking it's a good candidate for restoration but wanted a second opinion or two. The pitting isn't bad and the pole isn't too beat up. The eye doesn't appear deformed and the seller told me he hasn't found any cracks. The pictures aren’t the best but I think they show enough.

[/URL][/IMG]

[/URL][/IMG]

[/URL][/IMG]

[/URL][/IMG]

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[cityofthesouth]

Looks like a good candidate to me. Sometimes you will find auction site listings where the hard steel is visible from the rest of the head (this can be done by soaking the head in vinegar for a few hours or over night to remove all the rust and junk). Those are always helpful because it's relatively easy to tell how much life is left. It can be misleading though when all you've got is pictures to work with combined with the different methods used to make axes throughout history. The next thing I look for is a shot of the bit from the top or bottom. Being your first (or your hundredth) one it can be difficult to say if it looks thick or not. But if the bit looks thick, there could be less hard steel or none left. One obvious bad sign for me is a drastically curved bit in profile. For instance, in your picture you might notice the top (toe) of the bit leans back just a little - it may have had more sharpening than the bottom (heal) but it doesn't look bad to me. And I want to say this is somewhat indicative of that particular pattern - not 100%. Just eye balling it, it looks like it's about as long as it ever should have been. I'd say go for it. I would guess that axe is 3lbs or more depending on how big that tape measure is - kinda hard to tell - do they mention in the listing? As far as I can tell, there weren't a lot of patterns under 3lbs unless you get a hatchet, boys axe or Hudson Bay. The larger Hudson Bays are 2lbs, but you can expect to drop $50 and have a small bidding war unless you can score one at a flea market or something sweet like that. Only other concern is, if you end up getting a full size axe, it will have a full size eye, and if your hardware stores are like mine you have a whopping 1 choice - 36inch handle. House Handle is the only place I know of that makes 28 inch handles for full size eyes.

 

[Ale Golem]

I would guess that axe is 3lbs or more depending on how big that tape measure is - kinda hard to tell - do they mention in the listing? As far as I can tell, there weren't a lot of patterns under 3lbs unless you get a hatchet, boys axe or Hudson Bay. The larger Hudson Bays are 2lbs, but you can expect to drop $50 and have a small bidding war unless you can score one at a flea market or something sweet like that. Only other concern is, if you end up getting a full size axe, it will have a full size eye, and if your hardware stores are like mine you have a whopping 1 choice - 36inch handle. House Handle is the only place I know of that makes 28 inch handles for full size eyes.

The seller advised it's 3 pounds and 12 ounces; I'm assuming 3 1/2lb head since there's some wood still in there to add a bit to his weight. I actually have House Handle saved in my favorites list and was planning on picking up a handle from them.

 

[Double Ott]

Be careful. The bit on that Kelly Red Warrior looks like it has been sharped with a power bench grinder.

Double post.....Sorry

 

[Double Ott]

Be careful. The bit on that Kelly Red Warrior looks like it has been sharped with a power bench grinder. If it wasn't done right, the heat from that process could remove the temper in the remaining edge. I collect Kellys and saw that one awhile ago. I'm passing on it as it appears others have done.
Price isn't always the best deal.

Tom

 

[cityofthesouth]

It's true and worth asking for better pics since those are pretty frickin blurry. Are we looking at the defined, but wavy lines in the second pic? The first pic looks like it could have been ground with anything. I'd still go for it if the price was right. You can put an edge on it and chop some wood, even without a handle, and see how the edge reacts. On the other hand, there's other fish in the sea.

ETA: Here is some clear evidence of grinder work (defined but wavy lines). But this axe worked out fine.

gambles_edgegrind by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr

 

[300Six]

Not much risk when it's a $40 item compared to forking over $200-300 for a "boutique" item that may not even prove to be useful.

 

[lmalterna]

Just for my own buying, that one has a lot of "smile" in the bit- rounding of the toe and heel. I like bits a little with a little less arc. Then again, if there is good hard steel left, you could straighten that one a little and re angle the cheeks with a banana style profile. Plenty of filing but it is the process we desire and the satisfaction of restoring of a neglected tool we seek.

I have bought a few with pitting and surface rust as "no name" heads that had good looking profiles- then found beautiful lineage stamps when cleaned up. Collins Legitimus Connecticut for 9.99. Then there is that smashed eye R King in the corner! LOL!! A crap shoot if the pics are not good but that is part of the lure.

Bill

 

[Vintage Axeman]

I love reading about people fining good deals on axes and bringing them back to life. I just picked up these two beauties that needed saving for $15/each.

-Single Bit True Temper Kelly Perfect 3.5lb

-Double Bit Plumb 4.5lb.

I put them in a vinegar bath and now they look great. Both need new handles, though, and that will be the fun part!

[/URL][/IMG]

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[Ale Golem]

What's the best way to test edge temper and what should I be looking for as indicators of temper damage? Will the blade simply chip, crack or bend when used?

 

[Ale Golem]

I think I'll pass on this one, there's a few too many issues to take on for my first restoration project. I did talk the seller into dropping the price by $10 so if anyone else is interested jump on it and let us know how it works out.