I could use my (new) dremel to establish the bevel on machete, couldn't I?

S

Squashfan

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Jun 6, 2012
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Just got a new Dremel. Hooray for pawn shops! Anyway, it came with the aluminum oxide bits from the previous owner and I have a Imacasa machete that needs the bevels established. So, I am thinking I will thin the edge with the Dremel and finish it with a file.

I know that I will have to go slow and put water on the places where I am working. If I do those two things will I be okay?
 
I highly recommend C-clamping it to the edge of a table and use a single-cut file. Your work will probably turn out a whole lot cleaner and probably go a lot faster as well. Machete steel is usually a fairly low RC compared to smaller knives (so it can take more abuse). It goes real fast with a file once it starts to bite. A bigger file makes it go even faster :) I have a couple of files that I made large handles for out of old wooden dowels - bigger handle makes it a lot easier to manage and safer for stuff like this - you'll want to go at the edge, not with it.

HH
 
+1 to the above. The Dremel and it's very small working bit size would be awful tedious work on such a large blade, and likely won't leave a very even or flat bevel. Add to that the risk of overheating steel at the edge. I'd think a good file (as described by HH) would work faster and better on all counts.


David
 
I think if you use a dremel you'll end up with some uneven areas. But if you do still decide to use the dremel, use the lowest rpm setting. Patience is the key.
 
I vote file also. I use a crappy, rusty file to sharpen and it removes metal very well.
I just read that a golf ball works as a great handle for a file.
 
Nullity said:
I vote file also. I use a crappy, rusty file to sharpen and it removes metal very well.
I just read that a golf ball works as a great handle for a file.
Click to expand...

Interesting golf ball idea. I'll have to try that.
 
Dremel can also burn the steel. It has such a high speed, and low surface area.

I use a 1x30 belt sander and can move the blade quickly, and still have to either pause or dunk the blade.
 
HeavyHanded said:
I highly recommend C-clamping it to the edge of a table and use a single-cut file. Your work will probably turn out a whole lot cleaner and probably go a lot faster as well. Machete steel is usually a fairly low RC compared to smaller knives (so it can take more abuse). It goes real fast with a file once it starts to bite. A bigger file makes it go even faster :) I have a couple of files that I made large handles for out of old wooden dowels - bigger handle makes it a lot easier to manage and safer for stuff like this - you'll want to go at the edge, not with it.

HH
Click to expand...

All I want to do is bring the bevels down with the Dremel and then move to the file. There is a 1/32 or 1mm gap between the "bevels". Thats looking at with the "edge" towards me. Also, this is a stainless machete and has a more wear resistant steel. The steel is probably 420.

I was planning to clamp the blade down anyway so I guess I can try my 12" bastard file on it. Honestly, I have a feeling that this is going to be long and tedious no matter how I go about it. And if I don't have patience when using either tool, it will go badly. HH, what do you mean by "go at the edge, not with it."?
 
Skimo said:
He means use edge leading strokes, I think.
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Oh. Duh!

You know, coming to maint, tink and embelishment is like talking to this one friend of mine who always tells me to do the right thing. No matter if it is about my job or how to fix the kitchen faucet. He always tell me to do the right thing. Even when the right thing is to save money and not buy so many knives. Even though I want to ignore him and I know that if I do, I will end up messing something up because I ignored him.
 
Noooooooooo!

It will be nothing but bad.

File, belt sanders, ect... As been said.
 
Gotta agree. No dremel love for the edge.

If you're dying to use the dremel (and I can totally understand if you are) use it to make a sweet handle for the thing.

Dremels are the right tool for sooo many things. Edge production (or maintenance) is NOT one of them. ;)
 
Squashfan said:
All I want to do is bring the bevels down with the Dremel and then move to the file. There is a 1/32 or 1mm gap between the "bevels". Thats looking at with the "edge" towards me. Also, this is a stainless machete and has a more wear resistant steel. The steel is probably 420.

I was planning to clamp the blade down anyway so I guess I can try my 12" bastard file on it. Honestly, I have a feeling that this is going to be long and tedious no matter how I go about it. And if I don't have patience when using either tool, it will go badly. HH, what do you mean by "go at the edge, not with it."?
Click to expand...

Yes, lead into it. Edge to shoulder - do not file shoulder to edge. This is why I like to have a big dowel for a handle, and wear gloves. I've done a bunch of machetes from the factory with edges that made a butterknife look like a razor. The file will still make short work of them, even if lowering the cutting angle. I totally prepared a CS Bolo from factory dull to face shaving in 45 minutes - half of that was file work, half on a 1200 grit waterstone. Once the file begins to bite it goes faster than you'd think.
Here's some good reading prior to doing any file work, can save a lot of time and add life to your file:
http://www.evenfallstudios.com/woodworks_library/nicholson_guide_to_filing_2006.pdf
 
HeavyHanded said:
Yes, lead into it. Edge to shoulder - do not file shoulder to edge. This is why I like to have a big dowel for a handle, and wear gloves. I've done a bunch of machetes from the factory with edges that made a butterknife look like a razor. The file will still make short work of them, even if lowering the cutting angle. I totally prepared a CS Bolo from factory dull to face shaving in 45 minutes - half of that was file work, half on a 1200 grit waterstone. Once the file begins to bite it goes faster than you'd think.
Here's some good reading prior to doing any file work, can save a lot of time and add life to your file:
http://www.evenfallstudios.com/woodworks_library/nicholson_guide_to_filing_2006.pdf
Click to expand...

Ok. Thanks for the good advice!
 
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