I finally got around to cleaning and lubing my first Sebenza

M

maylebox

Joined
Oct 26, 2016
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I purchased my first CRK a few months ago and have picked up a few others since then. They all have pretty smooth action but the large Diamond Plate 21 that arrived last week was noticeably rougher than the others. So it was finally time to open up one of my knives.

After looking at posts here and a couple youtube videos I used the supplied CRK hex wrench on the DP 21 and it turns out that there was ZERO lubrication in the action of the (2010) knife. So I wiped down the scales/washers, applied the CRK lube, and reassembled the knife. The action is now so smooth that the difference is like night and day. The process was so simple I did the same to 4 more Sebenzas right after the first one.

I guess it's a testament to the design, quality, F&F, and tolerances of the Sebenza that maintenance is so easy to perform. So if you are a new Sebenza owner like me or maybe a bit reluctant to perform this maintenance on your own knife, don't be intimidated. It really is very simple.
 
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I just tore mine down a couple days ago. It wasn't bad (birth date Aug 2016), but a little dirty, so I cleaned it up and put it back together. Feels pretty much the same. Which is a good thing :)
 
maylebox said:
I purchased my first CRK a few months ago and have picked up a few others since then. They all have pretty smooth action but the large Diamond Plate 21 that arrived last week was noticeably rougher than the others. So it was finally time to open up one of my knives.

After looking at posts here and a couple youtube videos I used the supplied CRK hex wrench on the DP 21 and it turns out that there was ZERO lubrication in the action of the (2010) knife. So I wiped down the scales/washers, applied the CRK lube, and reassembled the knife. The action is now so smooth that the difference is like night and day. The process was so simple I did the same to 4 more Sebenzas right after the first one.

I guess it's a testament to the design, quality, F&F, and tolerances of the Sebenza that maintenance is so easy to perform. So if you are a new Sebenza owner like me or maybe a bit reluctant to perform this maintenance on your own knife, don't be intimidated. It really is very simple.
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Glad it worked out. Did you use the sandwich model with the slabs bolted together at the end, or did you place the blade in then reattach the second slab?

The big thing is not pinching the washers, which it sounds like you avoided.

Also, very friendly if you to do the raffle with the Pelican case :)
 
Wrobelan said:
Glad it worked out. Did you use the sandwich model with the slabs bolted together at the end, or did you place the blade in then reattach the second slab?

The big thing is not pinching the washers, which it sounds like you avoided.

Also, very friendly if you to do the raffle with the Pelican case :)
Click to expand...



Thanks. I used the "sandwich model" with the slabs together and a 1/4 turned loose screw near the pivot. I didn't take the first knife entirely apart but I did take the others apart.

Yeah it appears the washer issue is what you have to look out for. One of the 4 knives did have a wandering washer upon reassembly but it was pretty obvious something was a bit off before I tightened the pivot screw. So I was able to correct it before completing assembly.

The last knife was a small classic and I was surprised to see that it had solid washers. All the sebenza 21's were perforated.


EDIT: actually the 21's were all larges so is the solid washer a classic thing or a small CRK thing? I haven't done a small 21 yet.
 
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With the 21 you don't need to loosen the stop pin before inserting the blade/washers/bushing assembly into the assembled handle scales. It will fit. This helps reduce somewhat the possibility of a pinched washer, as you won't be able to insert the blade/washers/bushing if the washers are out of place. CRK does not recommend backing off the handle screws when you do this assembly. From the old assembly instructions that used to be on this site and the CRK site:

The handle must be assembled first and both screws tightened. Just comfortably tight (this
applied to all the screws!). The blade assembly (blade, pivot and 2 bronze washers) is then
inserted between the handle slabs. If it will not go in, you did not assemble it correctly. Do not
loosen the handle screws off. Once the blade assembly is in the handles, line up the pivot hole
and insert the pin. The allen wrench can help you line this up. Tighten the screw into the pin.

I have the instructions in a PDF if anyone is interested.
 
It would be good to have this for the 25 and the Inkosi, as the procedure is different (and different between the 25 and the Inkosi due to the extra stop pin screw, and alignment of the stop pin).

With the 21 it is not necessary to completely take down the knife just to clean and lubricate. Just unscrew the pivot, slide the blade/washers/bushing out, clean and lube as necessary, and slide the blade back in and tighten up.
 
Don M said:
With the 21 you don't need to loosen the stop pin before inserting the blade/washers/bushing assembly into the assembled handle scales. It will fit. This helps reduce somewhat the possibility of a pinched washer, as you won't be able to insert the blade/washers/bushing if the washers are out of place. CRK does not recommend backing off the handle screws when you do this assembly. From the old assembly instructions that used to be on this site and the CRK site:

The handle must be assembled first and both screws tightened. Just comfortably tight (this
applied to all the screws!). The blade assembly (blade, pivot and 2 bronze washers) is then
inserted between the handle slabs. If it will not go in, you did not assemble it correctly. Do not
loosen the handle screws off. Once the blade assembly is in the handles, line up the pivot hole
and insert the pin. The allen wrench can help you line this up. Tighten the screw into the pin.

I have the instructions in a PDF if anyone is interested.
Click to expand...



Thanks for the heads up Don. I'll follow these instructions going forward.
 
I took my 25 apart about two days after it arrived. I just like to know how things work, I guess. I've always been like that. The simplicity of the Sebenza is what makes it a classic.

I read somewhere that a design isn't perfect when nothing else can be added, but rather when nothing else can be taken away. The Chris Reeves Sebenza is an excellent example.
 
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