I had to do something with the edge on my BK16

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Jul 6, 2006
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I love my new BK16 but the edge was way to obtuse out of box. So I broke out my 1x30 belt sander and went to work. The edge is a heck of a lot better and this thing really slices now.

After sharpening
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Close up of how high up I went
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Close up of edge
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Tried my best to keep the edge symmetrical
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Good job. I was thinking of doing the same thing to mine. It's sharp enough to shave, but the angle is quite wide...
 
Good job. I was thinking of doing the same thing to mine. It's sharp enough to shave, but the angle is quite wide...

For a knife this small I don't need such and obtuse "hard use" angle. I won't be able to chop with this blade and the batoning I would do would be light. I have axes or bigger blades to do the heavy chopping, splitting etc.

This could do my heavy lifting, don't you think ;). I sharpened this at the same time.

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Great job. I've done the same thing on all my Tweeners with my Work Sharp. Smoothing the finish right at the edge does wonders for the sliciness of the blade. The new powdercoat is damn tough, but it's also a tad too rough for me.
 
Good job. When I got my 16 it was a bit rough also. A polished edge makes a world of difference.
 
I've done the same thing on all my Tweeners with my Work Sharp.

I would love to hear (or see) a description of how you do it with the Worksharp. I tried this on one of my old Ka-Bar fighters, and the results were less than optimal...
 
I would love to hear (or see) a description of how you do it with the Worksharp. I tried this on one of my old Ka-Bar fighters, and the results were less than optimal...

First of all, you have to take off the guide and use the WS freehand. The guides are just there for beginners. I began to hate them after less than two weeks of owning a WS. Practice on some crappy knives you don't care about first. Old machetes and cheapass chinese knives are a great way to start.

Now first, secure the WS with the front facing you and the handle facing backward, just like you were using a belt grinder. I usually just jam the handle under the platform of my chop saw, but you can get fancy if you like and build some kind of a clamp rig for it.

Use a fresh belt, but go slow. And by slow I mean, use a light touch. Don't press too hard. I used the 80 grit belt for the first few passes, then went to the 220 grit for most of the remaining reprofiling on my 16. Make sure you have a container of cold water and dip the blade after every three or four passes. I doubt the WS will ruin the heat treat, but I like to play it safe.

Then, begin by laying the knife almost flat against the belt and run it through the belt a few times. Not quite flat on the belt, but very very close. This will grind away the shoulder of the secondary bevel. Take care not to let the point run off the belt or you can ruin the tip. Once the point is on the belt, lift it off and flip it over. Then do a few passes at a wider angle, maybe 1/4 of an inch away from the belt, then 1/2, etc. After that do a few more passes with the blade still oriented towards the belt, but mostly upright. Finally, finish the edge off by grinding with the blade held at a 90 degree angle from the table, straight up and down.

It's hard for me to get into specific angles since it's all done freehand, but that's the gist. I finish off with the 12000 grit belt, and then strop with green and white buffing compound. This makes the knife scary sharp.

This is mine after I convexed it.

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And my 17.
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My 15.

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My Fisked 2.

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As you can see, it's pretty close to what 12Bravo did to his. It makes these suckers really sharp.
 
Thanks for the tutorial Wasatchdan.

Looks like I need order up some fresh belts and head to some garage sales this weekend to pick up a few guinea pigs...
 
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