I Hate Drilling!!!!!!!!!!!!

FOURLEAFCLEAVER

FOURLEAFCLEAVER

Joined
Jul 31, 2003
Messages
27
I HATE DRILLING!!!!!!!!!!!
It is the thing I hate most in my shop. It should be simple, but NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!! I have tried fast(3000rpm),Slow(640rpm) and inbetween. I have used coolant,cutting oil,and nothing but me blowing the chips away like Birthday candles. My bits alwaysturn an edge and then they are dull as a popcicle.I try to use steady even pressure. Could I be putting to much pressure? BTW I am just starting this as a hobby and am using 3/16 1084 steel,trying to grind out a little necker. HELLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks,Scott.
P.S. IHATE DRILLING:mad:
 
I don't know what kind of drill bits you are using, but you might want to try 135° split-point cobalt drills at slow speeds. Also, remember to use a "peck cycle" - that is, drill a little, clean away the chips, drill a little more.

If you're trying to drill a large hole (over Ø1/4") you should start with a small drill and work your way up. This releaves a lot of the pressure encountered near the center of the larger drill bits when drilling.

It takes a lot more time to drill a hole in tool steel than mild steel.
 
I have had trouble drilling 1084 in the past, It seems like it is a common occurance. Apperently it isn't annealed all that well all of the time. Since I switched to a bigger drill press with slower speeds, and cobalt bits, I haven't had a problem. Also What Tom said about drilling bigger holes in steps, really helps. I think the slower the speed the better.
Kyle Fuglesten
 
Sometimes bits dull or break cause they get too hot...do you use a cutting oil?
 
Drill on the slowest speed your drill press has. I use the cheap American made HSS drills and dont have any problems. When they dont cut anymore, just give them a toss. I use a small painters brush like the kids use on the paint sets. I dip it occasionally in cutting oil. You can get a little more out of them this way. Also if your drilling your 3/16ths hole, step up size wise in drills if you arnt already. This will make it easier to get through the metal.
 
Sharpen your bits to about 30deg, it'll go through metal better than most bits come to begin with. Bits should be sharpened when they don't bite anymore and thats about 5min on a grinder per bit.

spent 3yrs doing machining, and drill bits are a breeze after the first few.

light pressure and cutting oil helps.
 
Thanks for the replys. On the cobalt bits,are they a commonly available item at tool shops or a custom type order? And are they solid cobalt are coated??? Thanks,Scott
 
Cobalt drills are a tool steel that contains cobalt. If you have a problem with 1084 it is probably not spherodize annealed. Did you get annealed or hot rolled ?
 
from my experience i've noticed a lot of differecences in the 1084 i've worked with, some comes annealed some doesn't so try to check on it before you buy it
 
I just put this up in my shop last month and have not burned a bit yet!:D
eba00394013f00000008.jpg


If you are trying to drill your holes after you grind your blade your problem may be that you got the steel hot while grinding and cooled it in water and slightly hardened it. The drill in the pic works great, if you come across one you should grab it. It really does not take long to drill a hole with it, and it's a lot less frustrating.
Mace
 
What Tom Anderson said about "pecking" is right on. Use that method, not too much pressure, and you'll do fine. Watch the chips. If they are blue, your drilling too hot. Either slow down your feed, pressure, peck more, add coolant, or all four. I use Cool Tool II as a coolant and its very easy on the skin.

Now, if I may slightly disagree with some others here, I'd say cobalt bits aren't entirely necessary, especially if you are just starting out. Reason why I say this is because cobalt is typically misconceived as being able to drill through harder material - which it is - but its rather there for bit longevity. They are also pricey. HSS is comfortably priced, and if you learn to use those first, cobalt bits are smooth and creamy. Quality HSS bits are very effective when used correctly.

I've been a machinist most of my life, and my practice has always been to use cobalt bits for the sizes I use the most, and HSS for the rest. I keep a master set (numbered, fractional, lettered) of HSS bits, and a drawer full of various sizes in cobalt.
 
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