I have a Lansky system - what else do I need?

JOELSM

JOELSM

Joined
Aug 30, 2007
Messages
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I'm looking for some advice for additional sharpening equipment that will enhance my sharpening results. First off - I don't have a lot of experience with freehand sharpening so I need systems that contain angle guides. One of my frustrations is that after I lose the original manufactures edge on a knife I'm not able to get the edge back to the manufactures sharpness. My goal is to get my blades back to the same level of sharpness as they were when they came from the manufacture (or even sharper).

I have a Lansky system that contains the angle guide and the following diamond hones: Extra Course, Course, Medium, and Fine. I don't let my knives get dull - so usually I'm touching them up with the medium or fine hones. I am able to get the knives sharp enough so I can slice hanging paper, but they drag more than they did with the original manufactures edge.

There are a couple things I don't like about this system. 1) The metal clamp marks the coating on my coated blades. 2) The clamp simply won't securely clamp all blades that have varying spine dimensions. 3) I have several slightly re-curved blades that are a little more difficult to sharpen with this system. 4) I’m not able to get that manufactures edge.

So here's the point: I'm looking for another sharpening system that will enhance the Lansky. The following is a small sample of the type of blades that I want to be able to sharpen:

BM Skirmisher (s30v with slight re-curve)
BM mini Rukus (s30v)
Emerson CQC 11 (154 cm slight re-curve)
ZT 0400 (s30v slight re-curve w/tanto)
SOG Arcitech (San Mai blade with slight re-curve)

Most of the blades I own are s30v, 154 cm, D2, 1095, and 440c. I don’t buy too many re-curves anymore, but have enough that I need to be able to sharpen re-curve blades.

So given the samples above what type of sharpening system will enhance results with the Lansky system that I already own? I’ve been looking at the Spyderco Sharpmaker. Will this system enable me to get the manufactures edge on my knives? I like the fact that I don’t have to clamp the knives to an angle guide with the Sharpmaker. The Lansky clamp has messed up the finish on some of my coated Benchmades. Also – I’m curious to know if this system will be better for the slightly re-curved blades that I need to sharpen. I am “Sharpening Challenged” and I need advice. I’ve spent too much time buying knives and not enough time (or $) learning how to sharpen them.
 
practice, and maybe a strop. New knife steels are somewhat over rated; Heat treat , ergo'S, design, and being able to keep sharp= everything.
 
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put some cloth or tape where you clamp your blades and it wont mess up your finish.
 
Use the red screw to adjust the clamp to the thickness of the blade spine, then the metal one to tighten it down.

For example, let's say you have a blade with a diameter of 3mm. Open up the red screw so that when the clamp jaws are parallel the distance between them is 3mm. Slide your knife in and then tighten the metal screw. If there's wiggle up and down, loosen the metal screw, then the red one, then tighten the metal screw. Repeat until there's no more wiggle.

The tape helps lots. Get a grippy tape if possible. The Sharpmaker (I've heard) will work if the edge isn't too dull, and below 40 degrees inclusive.
 
Anyone have experience with the Sharpmaker and sharpening slightly re-curved blades?
 
JOELSM said:
Anyone have experience with the Sharpmaker and sharpening slightly re-curved blades?
Click to expand...

I still use the flats for slight recurves. I only use the corners on extremely recurved blades and serrations. It works very well on all of my blades.
 
I use a simple Lansky turnbox sharpener for recurves, and a smith's diamond set (similar to the lansky set you have) for my normal knives. The crock sticks of the turnbox help with recurves because the sticks are round. I use mine for the emerson commander that I have and it turns out great. I actually use the sticks freehand because I like the "feel" of the edge angle. The spyderco sharpmaker works on a similar level.

Here's an example of the turnbox: http://www.jsknivesnmore.com/deluxe-turnbox-crock-stick-sharpener-medium2-fine-rods-p-2516.html

And the sharpmaker: http://www.jsknivesnmore.com/triangle-sharpmaker-medium2-fine-p-5119.html

To tell you the truth I picked my turnbox up at the local Academy for equal or less price difference. That saves shipping vs. gas cost of visiting one (depending on where you live) :o
 
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