I have a question

Mrwhitetailfanatic

Mrwhitetailfanatic

Joined
Jan 3, 2011
Messages
477
I've been looking for days to get a Bushcrafter with a scandi grind. I have a Bushcrafter with a convexed and I do not like a convexed edge this is the first knife I have owned with one nor do I like how you have to sharpen this style. I love the feel of the knife just not the edge. Im literally going insane not being able to find what I want. The question is.... Would it be eithical to but a 30 degree edge on the one I have now?
 
I'd be surprised if you'd be happy with a 30 degree edge on O1 steel, seems much too thick. I think Andy does 12.5 when he puts a scandi grind on to get good performance. I baton with one of his scandi knives with no issues on decent wood.
 
...I believe that by 30 degrees, he means 15 per side... :)

Having said that, that's a major regrind. I'd be looking to either have Andy do it, or look for an opportunity to trade for a scandi.
 
Thanks for talking some sense into me. Ill just wait it out and in the mean time try and learn how to sharpen a convex edge
 
You can sharpen that knife on any stone. Thats how Dylan does it. Now IMO, a belt stretched over a leatherbacked piece of plywood is faster and makes a better cutting edge. But I'm a convex guy.
 
There is a small learning curve to sharpening a convex, but don't let that get you down. Keep on it and you'll do fine. However, don't make the mistake I made. I looked up info and followed the suggestion to use and old mousepad and sandpaper to sharpen a convex. Andy called me out on it when he got my hunter in for a spa treatment. He suggested, as he did above, to use leather as a backer for sandpaper. YOU HAVE TO TRY IT! It's so much better and faster that he mousepad which trashes your edge. Make or pick up a 2 sided strop like KSF's and get some sandpaper. You'll be glad you did. And keep us posted!




FIDDLEBACK RULES!
 
I am with you. I am not a fan of convex edges either. I have difficulties to sharpen them but I do noticed too that a mousepad is too soft and a leather backing seems to be better. I believe that sharpen your knife on a flat stone is somewhat more "natural" and a flat stone you are more likely to find anywhere rather than a strop with a "soft" backing plus an abrasive. I am not at all an expert in sharpening but I appreciate the idea of beeing able to keep my edge sharp enough anywhere at anytime. Not that I am able to reproduce it but check out the video where Murray Carter sharpens his knife on a cinder block and a piece of cardboard.

Sorry, I got carried away here. Anyway, I love scandi grinds too and the way Andy grinds them - "perpendicular to the spine rather than perpendicular to the edge" - must be awesome.
 
You can always use a flat stone on a convex, in the field or at home. Just make a micro bevel, and choose to fix it back at home. There's no absolute rule.
 
You can also sharpen a convex with a stone by simply understand the rocking motion you are trying to use to make a convex edge.

I find convex much easier to sharpen than a full scandi....

TF
 
I like both scandi and convex, If pressed to pick my favorite i'll go Convex every time. I will use a mousepad with 220 or 320 to thin out an edge or just break a secondary bevel but once I get that part the way I want, I'll hone on a ceramic rod to raise a burr and then strop on leather to keep it sharp. Works pretty good for me, generally I can get it to push cut paper.
 
I'm pretty firm on a bushcrafter design. Ill just call on thursdays and see what you made that week. I'm just going to strop on leather with jewelry compound if I don't like that I'm selling it to pay for the Scandi. I appreciate all the advice and help I look forward to hanging around here as I finally found a knife design as close to perfect for me thus far.
 
That one had some of the prettiest spalting I've ever done. A real standout.
 
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