Even if a high quality steel, I’d suggest going no shallower than 20deg each side - otherwise possible chipping may occur
you must have weak/brittle/fragile steel.
1095, 420HC, 440A, and 440C at 57 to 59 Rockwell can take 10DPS with no chipping. On the rare instances an edge rolled, dry stropping usually fixed it.
Before the "tactical" craze of the 1990's the factory edge on most pocket knives that had 1095 or 420HC, 440A, and 440C (The "super steel" and high 60 plus Rockwell craze hadn't started yet), was 10 to 12 DPS.
After more than 60 years, I still sharpen my pocket knives with "obsolete" 1095, 420HC, 440A/7CR14MoV, 440C/9CR18MoV, and whatever it is Mora, MAM, and Victorinox uses to 8 to 10 DPS. I reprofiled and thinned the edge on my (Marbles) D2, (Buck) CPM154 and (Buck) S30V blades to 10 DPS. They have not chipped or rolled an edge, cut/slice/peel better, and hold a working edge longer.
My (carbone) Mora Number 1 is around 12 to 15 DPS. I've never chipped or rolled that edge, either.
Since the OP asked about a Bowie, not a pocketknife, I suggested the 12 to 15 DPS on the Mora. Had he asked about a folding pocket knife, I would have suggest 10 DPS.
I could have suggested 10 DPS, but it is a regal royal time consuming pain in the sitter to thin and reprofile even a 3.75 inch 42HC blade from 15 DPS to 10 DPS. A 6 ... 7 ... 10 inch Bowie? Nah. 15 DPS will work good enough.
An axe/hatchet/tomahawk/machete was/is traditionally sharpened to 15 - 17 DPS.
The harder the blade, the more brittle and likely to chip, regardless of the edge angle. I'll take a 57 - 59 Rockwell at 10 DPS over some "high edge retention super steel" at 61 - 63 Rockwell at 30 - 40 DPS or even more obtuse, any day. I like knives that can cut. I have other tools for chopping. An axe, and machete, for example.