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I Heart 154cm

D

DANTHEMAN123

Banned
Joined
Mar 28, 2006
Messages
205
im loving the 154 cm !!! i just ryed sharpening my new seb and found it pretty hard. well,not that hard, but my 520 154cm was sharp in about 2 strokes on the sharpmaker and the edge it took was unreal, dont like to say it but it seems like its much nicer than the s30v on my seb and uk pen knife.

i know that s30v is by comosition,harder to sharpen but i guess it holds the edge alot better. the vg10 on my moran featherweight is easyer to sharpen but none of the knives i have or had seem to get this sharp, this quick and just feel,look so nice!!

what are the drawbacks to 154cm? the way it felt on the sharpmaker was beautuiful. i tried it before and after the seb to check it wasnt the steel build up that made it feel that way but i wasnt!!

i love 154cm

it makes me want to try bg42 and ats34, oh and a2 and d2. i have a d2 benchmade coming next week, how does that stuff do?
 
Dan,
154CM is nice but by the sounds of it you are working with 2 different angles. If the angle of the original bevel is steeper than the Sharpmakers angle you won't have to do much to sharpen it. (Microbevel it) If your original angle is too obtuse then you are most likely sharpening the shoulder instead of the edge which will take longer to actually start sharpening the edge. (reprofiling) You can use a magic marker to test the difference.
 
154CM is a good all around steel. It is easier to sharpen than S30V, but will not hold an edge as long. That is the tradeoff. Still a premium steel, though. Many top knife makers and production companies use it.

I have no experience with BG42 or ATS34, but I have used D2. It isn't good for displays of sharpness like push-cutting paper, but it has a toothy edge that is good for real world cutting. A working edge. It also holds that edge for a long time and almost has enough chromium to be called stainless. Some people say it "takes a crappy edge that lasts forever". They mean it doesn't take a razor sharp edge that will impress people with displays of push-cutting and slashing paper, but it is good for cutting with a draw, especially harder materials.
 
If the knife got sharp in "two strokes" on the Sharpmaker, then it was already sharp. maybe you just took off a Burr. Also, why would you need to sharpen a new Sebenza- have you used it a lot, or did it come dull?
 
Hair said:
154CM is a good all around steel. It is easier to sharpen than S30V, but will not hold an edge as long. That is the tradeoff. Still a premium steel, though. Many top knife makers and production companies use it.

I have no experience with BG42 or ATS34, but I have used D2. It isn't good for displays of sharpness like push-cutting paper, but it has a toothy edge that is good for real world cutting. A working edge. It also holds that edge for a long time and almost has enough chromium to be called stainless. Some people say it "takes a crappy edge that lasts forever". They mean it doesn't take a razor sharp edge that will impress people with displays of push-cutting and slashing paper, but it is good for cutting with a draw, especially harder materials.
Click to expand...
Amen Brother! The D2 is a Working edge SOB..! It will not do the fancy cuts well but, in the real world.. it is a good cutter!:thumbup:
 
I like 154Cm (and ATS-34) very much.
It seems to hold an edge as well as my S30V knives.
One of my sharpest knives is my Spyderco Vesuvius in ATS-34.
 
rat, you never say nice things do you.

the seb in 2 days old(by me) and was sticking when cutting paper. i like to leave the edges of my knives as long as i can instead of sharpening them twice a freakin day just to pop hair real well as supposed to just shave hair.

i just tried both angles with the 520, which before today had never been resharpened. it was slightly diiferent on the different angles(i only did 1 stroke just to feel) but it still felt different.

when i sharpen vg10 it feels like its being sharpened, same but more so with this 154cm but with 440c,420j2, aus-8 and s30v it does get sharp but doesnt feel like it is.
(with the first hing you said) when you say steeper do you mean if my blades 20 and the sharpmakers 15 or the other way round. ie

is it easier to put a sharp edge on a 25 bevel with a 20 degree setting than it is to do the other way round ie 20 bevel 25 setting?
 
And what is wrong with what Rat said? I am sure it is the truth? And I was thinking the very same thing.And there was nothing not nice about it.
 
And what is wrong with what Rat said? I am sure it is the truth? And I was thinking the very same thing.And there was nothing not nice about it.
Click to expand...

Well, IMO, Rat just flat out called him a liar.

If the guy says that the 154CM was easier to sharpen than the S30V, who are we to argue?
 
Ok, just for DANTHEMAN123, here is something nice.

Gumdrops, unicorns, and angels

All dancing in a meadow, Yippee!

If your knife gets dull slicing

Thick crusty icing.

Just rub it on rainbows for free!
 
allenC said:
Well, IMO, Rat just flat out called him a liar.

If the guy says that the 154CM was easier to sharpen than the S30V, who are we to argue?
Click to expand...

no, I pointed out the simple fact that if a knife gets sharp in two strokes on a sharpmaker, then it was already sharp, maybe it just had a burr.

Nobody was arguing that 154CM is not easier to sharpen than S30V.

I was curious why anyone would need to sharpen a new Sebenza, as they are supposed to come very sharp- maybe it came from the factory with a less than spectacular edge?
 
i was pretty damn sharp and all but it was just hetting not quite sharp enough to slide as easily as it could have through paper. fair enough rat, you werent being too bad. but is that you pic on your avatar?
 
Nothing wrong with a little honing. you might have had good results with a loaded strop, assuming the CRK has a convex edge
 
I have a bunch of knives in D2 and have never had a problem putting a hairsplitting, newsprint shaving, wow-the-neighbors edge on any but one little boot knife that has a very thick edge (which I will thin down at some point). I'll agree that it's not the easiest steel to get scary sharp, but all the claims that it can't be done just aren't true. Its high tensile strength supports thin edges very well and it will sharpen/hone/polish up just like anything else.
 
Concerning micro-bevels, you can restore a knife which has 5-10% of optimal sharpness to 95+% in just 2-3 passes on the medium rods (measured numbers not made up).

DANTHEMAN123 said:
is it easier to put a sharp edge on a 25 bevel with a 20 degree setting than it is to do the other way round ie 20 bevel 25 setting?
Click to expand...

If you apply a larger angle then the knife will sharpen extremely fast, if you try to apply a lower one it will be very slow on the sharpmaker as hour+.

Rat Finkenstein said:
I was curious why anyone would need to sharpen a new Sebenza, as they are supposed to come very sharp ...
Click to expand...

Tom Mayo noted that he used to do this all the time and show people what really sharp actually meant.

-Cliff
 
My seb was and still is insanely sharp. I've put it on the sharpmaker and from all my results the trickest part w/S30V was when your sharpening you lean into the V as S30V takes a sharper smaller edge better than 154cm.

I don't want to split hairs but Spyderco native, Lone Wolf T-2, CRK seb, are no more difficult to sharpen than my BM 941, the D2 Dozier I had, or any other knife for that matter. It's the angles. If the blade feels like it's sliding frictionless than your angle is off. Ever so slightly lean into the V by turning your wrist and degree or two. Try again and see if it feels rougher. Once you get the position down, note where your wrist and hands are and repeat.

If you take off too much over time your edge will thin out, then you switch to the 30 degree side and redo the bevels. I cut some sandpaper at coarse grits and wrap the gray stones in it, do the bevels holding the knife straight not angled as you bring it down. Then when done, proceed to the gray stones directly, then the white, etc. Strop to remove the burr

Regardless of steel, this works for me. Good luck.
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Tom Mayo noted that he used to do this all the time and show people what really sharp actually meant.

-Cliff
Click to expand...

This is DANTHEMAN123 we are talking about, not Tom Mayo. (Not that there is anything wrong with being DANTHEMAN123) ;)
 
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