I just convexed my tenacious...its awesome!

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boki_zca

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Planing to buy chinook 3 and convex it....any thoughts or ideas all input is welcome. :)
 
Go do it! Convexed Spydercos are terrific things - I did an endura and a rock lobster - got a millie and para planned

just look at the blades - you can see it makes sense :):)
 
Noddy said:
Go do it! Convexed Spydercos are terrific things - I did an endura and a rock lobster - got a millie and para planned

just look at the blades - you can see it makes sense :):)
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If it made sense they wouldn't be FFG :rolleyes:
 
^Why do you say that?

I believe it's mostly the polishing/thinning that leads to the awesome performance. My Mili when newly reprofiled at 12 per side and stropped got a similar response from me...sorta "Hey, why is there no resistance even though I'm cutting stuff?...Awesome!"
 
wongKI said:
^Why do you say that?

I believe it's mostly the polishing/thinning that leads to the awesome performance. My Mili when newly reprofiled at 12 per side and stropped got a similar response from me...sorta "Hey, why is there no resistance even though I'm cutting stuff?...Awesome!"
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A FFG makes for a very thin approach to the edge, a convex edge makes for an edge with a lot of metal behind it. Glad it works for so many people though :thumbup: Just not my thing as of right now.
 
i convex quite a few knives with a thin edge and they seem to cut a lot better than the ffg edge. it helps if you know how to convex an edge though.
 
richard j said:
i convex quite a few knives with a thin edge and they seem to cut a lot better than the ffg edge. it helps if you know how to convex an edge though.
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Richard, I have a Delica FFG and have been impressed with its nice edge. So far, only minor touch ups with a leather hone (strop) have been needed, but I am debating convex sharpening with sandpaper vs. using the Sharpmaker when the time comes for a more serious sharpening.

Any tips or advice you can offer in this regard would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Andrew
 
you cant convex a knife with the sharpmaker. i use a belt sander and on some of the smaller knives i use my soft contact wheel that i covered with a special pad. for larger fixed blades i use a slack belt along with the contact wheel to form a convex edge. most mouse pads i have seen are too spongy for my liking. you might try a phone book with some wetordry paper attached so it is a little firmer but with some give. since you're in texas, i have a buddy with a belt sander that i can put you in contact with that might be able to help you out of you are close to him. you can also send me the knife if you dont want to do it yourself.
 
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Richard, thanks for your reply and info. Sorry, my post was poorly worded. I meant to say that I was debating whether to maintain the FFG beveled edge with my Sharpmaker or simply convex sharpen it with paper. What's your opinion?

I know that a lot of people do say that a mousepad is too spongy. I also have a 4" wide leather-on-wood hone/strop that is much firmer that I can use as a base for the paper.

I'm all simple hand methods here, so I may take you up on your kind offers one day.

Thanks again,

Andrew
 
you should be ok with using the paper on your strop. just take your time and check often to see what the edge looks like. once you get a burr formed just remove the paper and strop the edge. if its not convexed enough to your liking just put the paper back on and go a little longer. you could get a thin padded kitchen placemat and try that.
 
knifenut1013 said:
If it made sense they wouldn't be FFG :rolleyes:
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Really? You can have your preference of full flat grind over convex. But dont pretend that the blade is made that way because it is the best way to do it. A convex grind and or edge requires a person to do it. It is not as time efficient for a manufacturer to do that. It would take more time and money, which is why most companies do it that way. It does not mean that convexing the edge of your FFG knife does not make sense. Its what works best for you.
 
Noddy said:
eh???

anyway boki

I find it easiest to put the convex on with 1500 grit micromesh on a leather pad - then go through some fine grits, then strop with metal polish
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So you go on up through the higher Micro Mesh grits after 1500? I had the impression (I could easily be wrong) that most convexers feel comfortable stopping at 2000?
 
Convexed my Millie and Para when I first got them (approx. 3 years ago ) and they cut like laser ever since! :eek:
I also noticed, that it now seems that the S30V blades simply don't want to get dull from woods usage. I can cut wood till my hands fall off, and still the knife will be razor sharp.
 
JNewell said:
So you go on up through the higher Micro Mesh grits after 1500? I had the impression (I could easily be wrong) that most convexers feel comfortable stopping at 2000?
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They probably do :) I just like the fine polish

Also, I don't finish the regrind off in one go. I just decide that this one is going to be a convex and will be stropped to sharpness hereafter. So, I knock the shoulders off to establish the principle and let the convex evolve over time with repeated stroppage :D

It means that the convex isn't determined by my hand habit on that day :) Horses, courses etc :lol:
 
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