I Know Nothing About Traditional Knives

Joined
May 19, 2020
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19
Good evening, all!

I have been a fan and collector of modern folders for years and I'm really starting to like traditionals. One thing I've seen at the many garage sales and flea markets I go to with my wife, is that there are slews of traditional knives there. I've always wondered, "is there something worth saving for future generations among all of that?"

So I'm asking for any knowledge or resources or anything useful to help me to identify quality traditional knives. I greatly appreciate any help, and I'm excited to get into this area of knife collecting!

-Jason
 
I'd say for right now, don't worry about collector value, just buy what you like.
I love finding old brands that I'd never heard of, and then using the search function in this forum and learning about the knife and its history. Read and ask questions here and you'll gradually start to get an idea of which old cutlery brands are good quality, and what to look for in vintage knives.
 
If it's made in USA, or any European countries and the condition doesn't look too horrible pick it up if the price seems good.
If it's says Pakistan, Korea, Taiwan, China, Hong Kong, or Japan, generally avoid it.
I'm sure you know there was some good stuff coming from Japan in the 80's+, but the vast majority wasn't traditional and you have to know what's what.

One thing you just kind of have to learn from first hand experience is good walk and talk which is the opening action.
If a knife doesn't look too dirty or rusty but doesn't open easily or have much snap you have to decide if you want to take a gamble on the chance some oil will make a difference.
It's up to you what kind of W&T you find acceptable.

There are so many brands and manufacturers out there to be found.
Case
Schrade
Buck
Camillus
Colonial
IMPERIAL
Utica
Remington
Western
Boker
Cattaragaus
Kabar
Winchester
Queen
Robeson
Victorinox
Craftsman ( made by Schrade and Camillus)
Keen Kutter
Kent

And lots of different lines of knives from various makers

Old Timer and uncle Henry from Schrade
Sword brand from Camillus
Kutmaster from Utica
Frontier from Imperial
Ranger and Old Cutler from Colonial

Camillus had other brands as well as manufactured knives for lots of others.
 
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Welcome! Good advice given above. I'll add, don't expect to find "THE" knife anytime soon. What I craved, starting out, and what I actually carry and enjoy now, are pretty different. Get to know the style, or model of knife you buy, and decide if it works for you. Do you want two blades? Trappers, barlows, and jack knives. Three blades? Stockman knives. Single blade? Many styles.
And, don't be afraid to ask questions... there are a bunch of very knowledgeable, helpful folks on here. I learn something from them just about every day.

climb aboard!
 
Don't fear traditional knives with more than one blade. Embrace them. They are very versitle.

Don't fear carbon steel.
Red rust can be removed easy enough, and really red rust is the only thing that might cause problems.
If a knife appears "too good" for its age, it may have been "cleaned". Personally, I avoid those.

Rough Rider/Rough Ryder makes a whole bunch of patterns, so you can try them without bankrupting the bank.
You can "upgrade" (note quotes) to a "better" (note quotes) brand if you want, when you find patterns that you like.

A couple that every "collection" or "accumulation" needs:
Buck 110
Opinel number 8
Fixed blade: Mora Classic Number 1 or 2.
 
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I'd recommend starting with the most popular quality brand thats made in the usa, Case. Buck is another similar company, but don't offer as many patterns or scale choices. I'd start by just doing ebay searches - see whats out there from Case and your preferences will guide you - you will not like some & those you can eliminate, you will like others, and can narrow your eBay searches accordingly ... eBay is the mecca for Case knife collectors (as you don't have to pay full retail for clean used knives)
 
I made the switch from modern (Chris Reeve, Hinderer, Emerson, etc...) to traditional. I am really enjoying it.

From my experience, I would start in the $100 ish range. Don't jump in at $500 or $50 IMHO. Start with a Great Eastern Cutlery (GEC) with a handle material you like. GEC makes a lot of nice Micarta knives that are easy to transition to from the modern folder world. Thats how I got hooked.

Once you see the fit and finish and the overall design you will either get it or you wont. A GEC will be really easy to sell if you decide it isn't for you.
 
Welcome, Jason.
I don’t know anything about collector’s value, but anything made in the USA or Germany should be a fairly safe bet quality-wise, if it is in decent condition. Other than that, do as Rachel says and get what YOU like.

I also second Prester John’s advice to spend time following along with the activity on this sub-forum. You may feel a bit like Spongebob visiting Mermaid Man and Barnacle Boy at the senior center at times, but you will definitely benefit from the wisdom(?) of your seniors.

( To be fair, we’re not ALL old, in fact there are a number of notable participants who are young, but I’m pretty sure the average age of the participants here is well above your age)
 
Read as much as you can, knowledge is power. Try a few cheaper patterns, some that look ugly might be the most comfortable in hand. Buy what you like. If you have a knife store or hardware nearby, go handle a few. What is good for me might not be good for you. Get a catalog from a knife store- some online will send you one on request. You can use it for pattern reference. Happy hunting!
 
Oh, China!

A lot of the old brands are being made in China these days. There's nothing wrong with Chinese knives as such. They are attractive, good quality, and cheap. If you like them, by all means buy them. The problem comes when you think you're looking at a fine old knife, pay significant money for it, and find that it's a ten dollar Chinese knockoff.

Some of these Chinese knives are stamped 'China' on them. Buck, for example, has a line of Chinese made knives. They're stamped 'China', and they are inexpensive knives that have the Buck lifetime warranty. But, if it's stamped USA, you can be sure it's an American made knife. Many, many others have tang stamps that don't mention China anywhere, but have reproductions of old U.S. or European tang stamps. Primble, Owl's Head, and even Henckels, my specialty, have fooled me.

Then, there are knives that are assembled in their traditional country of manufacture, but made of foreign made parts. One fairly reliable indicator is finding 'Germany' on knives that typically say 'Solingen'.

I'd suggest making yourself a specialist in a particular brand to start. Just as an example, Old Timer. Learn what the real thing looks like, how they're stamped, materials used, and how they feel. Often times it's the feel of a knife that's the tipoff for me. Buying from a reputable dealer helps a lot.
 
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Here are some things to look for in terms of quality:

Fit and finish - is it slapped together or is everything flush?

"Walk and talk" - is the action crisp or mushy?

Edge bevels - are they even on both sides of each blade?

Handle scales - are they made of wood or bone, or basic plastic?

There are many other details but that's a basic start
 
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indeed, I remember in my early days at traditional collecting, those rough rider and frost/steel warrior knives were shaving sharp and an affordable way to experiment with new patterns. Quality control has drastically improved compared to the old days.
 
Youre in for it now buddy. Collecting and admiring traditionals is a rich and rewarding hobby. Ive only got about 5 but im totally hooked. I enjoy the variations in pattern and handle materials, the various blade grinds and steel finishes. Not only that but I derive satisfaction from storing and cleaning them as well, not to mention learning the art of sharpening! You can read for days here on the trads forum, and the infomation goes back many years. Welcome to the porch!
 
If you are going to yard sales and flea markets - two bits of advice. Take a small oiler in your pocket (light gun oil or reel oil will work fine) - tell the owner the knife looks very dry and you'd oil it for them (no one has ever told me no) - that will tell you if the Walk & Talk will come back and how good it might actually be. Unless the blade has been butchered, don't worry about lack of a good edge - you can bring a cutting edge back easily unless lots of steel is gone. OH
 
xDxGvRW


Thank you all for the knowledge! Ive been spending a lot of time reading on here to learn more. I went to an antique store today with my wife and her friend and found a couple of knives that I was interested in. I attached a photo but idk if it'll show up, never posted a photo here before! Imperial Barlow and imperial serpentine jack!
 
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