Recommendation? I like my RAT-7 but I want to love it. First ever handle swap

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Mar 4, 2016
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The blade is great but the handles are big and boxy. The corners make the grip uncomfortable to handle.
So I would like to replace them with something more ergonomic. I have a great big piece of padauk 2-3/4" thick and first quality.

Here's my concern, and that's I wan't the handle to fit perfectly and flush with the tang but the blade is coated and I don't want to scratch it.

So my naive plan is this- Remove each piece of micarta and use one to trace onto a piece of wood which I make into an exact dimensional copy of the blade from the back of the edge to the rearmost of the tang. I can then use the holes in the one side and mark the center with an awl. I drill that out then reassemble the pieces to the "tang". I then trace the other side and cut the "tang" out and make that as I said exactly like the real tang. Then it's a matter of cutting and rough finishing the paduak scales and attaching them to the wooden tang. Then I can rasp, grind whatever until I have something that's as perfect as I can make it.

This is just off the cuff so I'm interested in opinions of this approach. Also I'm not sure as what a proper handle shape is optimal. It's a heavy duty bushcrafting knife and I'll be using it as such.

So technique, shape, finishing, pretty much the kitchen sink of knowledge would be appreciated.

Edit- I have a complete woodshop except for a lathe including hand tools.
 
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You could reshape the current handles. Maybe just knock the corners off a little bit with some sand paper or a file. I've done this on several wood handled knives with good results. Just take it slow.
 
I just use the old slabs as a guide for hole drilling and tracing for cutting, I clamp the new and old together and drill.
 
I have a rat 7. Just sand the edges down and take that squareness out of the handle if it bothers you.
If you make something
You will also need a counter sink in order to use the hardware so the you have so the hardware sits flush.
 
I was lucky to find an old collector's edition with the ram's horn handles. They were still pretty blocky, so I worked over the scales with a dremel tool. Have it paired up with a CTS-XHP Military.

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I have a rat 7. Just sand the edges down and take that squareness out of the handle if it bothers you.
If you make something
You will also need a counter sink in order to use the hardware so the you have so the hardware sits flush.

Thanks for the counter-sink comment. I might have figured that out but if I didn't then I might be saying bad words later.

Since handles are so easy (OK, a humorous attempt by someone who hasn't done it and suspects it's not, at least to do right) I think I'll take both approaches, and sand the scales perhaps on the 1" belt grinder and make at least one set of handles. Padauk is a bear to work with at times and it makes me itch, so perhaps some white oak, then walnut, then maybe break out some figured cherry. I might as well use this as a skill builder as I want to forge a blade. I can make a forge but a good anvil might as well be a Ferrari as far as my budget goes. Oh well, a man can dream.
 
Thanks for the counter-sink comment. I might have figured that out but if I didn't then I might be saying bad words later.

Since handles are so easy (OK, a humorous attempt by someone who hasn't done it and suspects it's not, at least to do right) I think I'll take both approaches, and sand the scales perhaps on the 1" belt grinder and make at least one set of handles. Padauk is a bear to work with at times and it makes me itch, so perhaps some white oak, then walnut, then maybe break out some figured cherry. I might as well use this as a skill builder as I want to forge a blade. I can make a forge but a good anvil might as well be a Ferrari as far as my budget goes. Oh well, a man can dream.

Scale work is my weakest link in the process. I am a steel man not a wood man. I have a long long way to go before my handles stand up
 
I've made a couple sets of custom scales... maybe I can help.

Use the tang of the knife as both your drill template, and then to trace the outline of the tang onto the back sides of the slabs. Trust me when I say that you will not get it accurate enough using the existing slabs as templates. Once you drill the holes, use the fasteners as dowels to locate the scales EVERY time you check the fit. Trace, grind, fit check, Mark the high spots, grind, check, mark, repeat, repeat.

Also, noticed your user photo. Good looking pup! English Setter?

Look anything like this now?

View attachment 1101277
 
I've made a couple sets of custom scales... maybe I can help.

Use the tang of the knife as both your drill template, and then to trace the outline of the tang onto the back sides of the slabs. Trust me when I say that you will not get it accurate enough using the existing slabs as templates. Once you drill the holes, use the fasteners as dowels to locate the scales EVERY time you check the fit. Trace, grind, fit check, Mark the high spots, grind, check, mark, repeat, repeat.

Also, noticed your user photo. Good looking pup! English Setter?

Look anything like this now?

View attachment 1101277


Thanks for the tips. He's actually an English Springer Spaniel and about a year and a quarter old now. That's a fantastic pooch you have there BTW. I've had dogs since I was born so there's an appreciation that only those who bond with them can have.

I'll have to take a pic if I can get him to slow down enough to do it.

Edit- Everything being equal the handle makes or breaks a knife in terms of usability. If it feels "wrong" I won't use it as much as a less worthy blade that is comfortable, has a good appearance and indexes.
 
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