I made a thread like this before, but now am just about to buy - need a budget guided sharpener, $300ish limit. Lansky, KME, Worksharp?

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I almost got a Worksharp yesterday, actually did but cancelled the order. I was unsure of what to get, and while I do my research, I thought I'd ask here for anyone with some spare time... last time I got some great answers, but some of it was like... "If you REALLY want results, get this one, it's $1100 but it'll do ya for life". I am not there yet, haha.

So, some criteria. I backed out of the Worksharp because I wasn't sure if the stones would be enough for what I need. I want to be able to re-profile as needed (My girl broke the tip of her Opinel, and I need to fix it, do not know how yet, only have a Sharpmaker, diamond rods with it, a King 500 stone, and a strop w/ diamond.

- Needs to be able to cut hard steels. If there's just no way I could easily do something like Maxamet, I can handle it, but I will be sharpening everything from Swiss Army Knives and 1095, to S35, S45, 20CV, 10V, K390, D2, M4... Different stones to be able to handle these steels, basically.

- I can rig up something to help support a large or small knife, but it should be able to sharpen big and small knives, from something the size of a Microtech UTX-70 to bowie knives and an Espada XL. I will need to support it anyways when I do things like sharpen my Leatherman. If the sharpening system you have has a particular problem with big or small knives, let me know which, and if there is anything I can do to mitigate that.

- Something that is, of course, well... guided, easy to use without knowing every last thing about sharpening.

Making my decision later in the day. Really excited for this, now I can learn to sharpen on my own time and still assuredly have sharp knifes.

-

I really liked the price of the basic Worksharp, but I don't know if that'll be enough to do me. I don't have a HUGE problem with the plastic construction, but I am aware that something with a lil more investment will do me better. Let me know what grits of stone I can get, and if I can purchase additional stones if I decide I wanna get more into polishing or whatever, but that is not yet my concern. Need some last minute guidance on this, and I appreciate anyone who pitches in. Sorry if I am dumb when it comes to understanding or retaining sharpening info. You guys are a Godsend.
 
I almost got a Worksharp yesterday, actually did but cancelled the order. I was unsure of what to get, and while I do my research, I thought I'd ask here for anyone with some spare time... last time I got some great answers, but some of it was like... "If you REALLY want results, get this one, it's $1100 but it'll do ya for life". I am not there yet, haha.

So, some criteria. I backed out of the Worksharp because I wasn't sure if the stones would be enough for what I need. I want to be able to re-profile as needed (My girl broke the tip of her Opinel, and I need to fix it, do not know how yet, only have a Sharpmaker, diamond rods with it, a King 500 stone, and a strop w/ diamond.

- Needs to be able to cut hard steels. If there's just no way I could easily do something like Maxamet, I can handle it, but I will be sharpening everything from Swiss Army Knives and 1095, to S35, S45, 20CV, 10V, K390, D2, M4... Different stones to be able to handle these steels, basically.

- I can rig up something to help support a large or small knife, but it should be able to sharpen big and small knives, from something the size of a Microtech UTX-70 to bowie knives and an Espada XL. I will need to support it anyways when I do things like sharpen my Leatherman. If the sharpening system you have has a particular problem with big or small knives, let me know which, and if there is anything I can do to mitigate that.

- Something that is, of course, well... guided, easy to use without knowing every last thing about sharpening.

Making my decision later in the day. Really excited for this, now I can learn to sharpen on my own time and still assuredly have sharp knifes.

-

I really liked the price of the basic Worksharp, but I don't know if that'll be enough to do me. I don't have a HUGE problem with the plastic construction, but I am aware that something with a lil more investment will do me better. Let me know what grits of stone I can get, and if I can purchase additional stones if I decide I wanna get more into polishing or whatever, but that is not yet my concern. Need some last minute guidance on this, and I appreciate anyone who pitches in. Sorry if I am dumb when it comes to understanding or retaining sharpening info. You guys are a Godsend.
I own the KME with all of the diamond stones, and I absolutely love it. It can only handle knives up to about 10 inches unless you do some fiddly stuff with it, like moving it around in the clamp to get to different areas.

I’ve had the original diamond stones that came with it, I added the 50 and 100 grit stones. I’d recommend getting the stand/base, and if not, definitely build one. I believe I bought mine back in 2019 and have put a good number of knives through it.

Let me know if you have any other questions :)


Edit: forgot one of the best things about the KME, their customer service is absolutely top notch. If you ever have any questions or problems Brian over at kme can definitely help you out.
 
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I own the KME with all of the diamond stones, and I absolutely love it. It can only handle knives up to about 10 inches unless you do some fiddly stuff with it, like moving it around in the clamp to get to different areas.

I’ve had the original diamond stones that came with it, I added the 50 and 100 grit stones. I’d recommend getting the stand/base, and if not, definitely build one. I believe I bought mine back in 2019 and have put a good number of knives through it.

Let me know if you have any other questions :)


Edit: forgot one of the best things about the KME, their customer service is absolutely top notch. If you ever have any questions or problems Brian over at kme can definitely help you out.
What about small knives and the like, can it do those well?

This is looking good, honestly. Going to watch some vids on it shortly, but preliminary search shows it to be fairly priced, too!
 
What about small knives and the like, can it do those well?

This is looking good, honestly. Going to watch some vids on it shortly, but preliminary search shows it to be fairly priced, too!
It can do small knives as well, depending on the knife you may need the pen jaws which I recommend, I’ve seen them do the Victorinox SD classic, the blade length is 1-5/16” long, by .228” wide.

There are tons of good videos on the KME, I know knifecrazy has done a few along with DeanO. Let me know what you end up getting, I’m interested to hear!
 
If you're interested in a KME system, have I got a deal for you. :D

I'd come down to your $300 price if you're interested.

 
While I had no experience with the worksharp or Lansky, I do have the KME. I have been very pleased with the system and the KME diamond stones. I recently upgraded to the Venev stones, and they make a really good system even better.
 
In addition to whatever guided system you use, I’d suggest you get some inexpensive diamond plates and learn to freehand.

Sharpening is just microscopic sculpting. There’s nothing better than knowing that you can make almost any knife sharp with almost any abrasive.

I just saw this post - I’ve never tried these but they look perfect as a starter set for free-handing.

 
A Hapstone R2 paired up with Venev stones will do everything you need, and much more. Unbeatable quality and versatility for the price.
 
I bought a KME at the beginning of the year and I really like it a lot. I also have a Sharpmaker, had a Lansky, and used to have a guided Smiths diamond guided sharpening system deal. I've got the best edges I've ever been able to produce ever since the second knife I did on my KME. It'll do pretty big knives too. The first knife I ever did on it was about a 10" kitchen knife. It worked pretty dang well. I got the whole kit with all their standard diamond stones, the base, the stone thickness compensator, and a strop. I've never used the stone thickness compensator because, since I use all the same stones, they're the same thickness. I've used the standard jaws to do some pretty small slipjoints. I haven't run into a knife that was too small for the standard jaws yet, but I'd like to get a pen knife clamp while they're easily accessible. Not that they're going anywhere any time soon but I like to think in the real long term. I think if you take care of your system and use light pressure, the KME can last you a lifetime. Join the KME group if you have facebook. The owner is very active on social media and immediately takes care of anyone who ever has issues. My best bit of advice is when you're sharpening the tip, make sure that you keep the stone straight and parallel to the edge. Also only extend the stone out about halfway passed the tip so that 50% of the stone is hanging off the tip. That will assure that you don't round the tip as long as you keep the stone straight. That's the hardest part about it, but you'll have that hurdle to overcome with any guided system, and shoot any way of sharpening period. Good luck!
 
I bought a KME at the beginning of the year and I really like it a lot. I also have a Sharpmaker, had a Lansky, and used to have a guided Smiths diamond guided sharpening system deal. I've got the best edges I've ever been able to produce ever since the second knife I did on my KME. It'll do pretty big knives too. The first knife I ever did on it was about a 10" kitchen knife. It worked pretty dang well. I got the whole kit with all their standard diamond stones, the base, the stone thickness compensator, and a strop. I've never used the stone thickness compensator because, since I use all the same stones, they're the same thickness. I've used the standard jaws to do some pretty small slipjoints. I haven't run into a knife that was too small for the standard jaws yet, but I'd like to get a pen knife clamp while they're easily accessible. Not that they're going anywhere any time soon but I like to think in the real long term. I think if you take care of your system and use light pressure, the KME can last you a lifetime. Join the KME group if you have facebook. The owner is very active on social media and immediately takes care of anyone who ever has issues. My best bit of advice is when you're sharpening the tip, make sure that you keep the stone straight and parallel to the edge. Also only extend the stone out about halfway passed the tip so that 50% of the stone is hanging off the tip. That will assure that you don't round the tip as long as you keep the stone straight. That's the hardest part about it, but you'll have that hurdle to overcome with any guided system, and shoot any way of sharpening period. Good luck!
Decided on going with a KME, with all the fixings, from our very own 3D Anvil! I actually do like how portable it is, and I am a big fan of "for life" items.
Thanks for the tip about... tips. I will probably come back here asking about that when the time comes haha, but is it similar to how you curve on a sharpmaker for the tip of a knife like a PM2?
 
Decided on going with a KME, with all the fixings, from our very own 3D Anvil! I actually do like how portable it is, and I am a big fan of "for life" items.
Thanks for the tip about... tips. I will probably come back here asking about that when the time comes haha, but is it similar to how you curve on a sharpmaker for the tip of a knife like a PM2?
Awesome! Excited to hear what you think of it, and am curious about those CGSW stones.
 
Decided on going with a KME, with all the fixings, from our very own 3D Anvil! I actually do like how portable it is, and I am a big fan of "for life" items.
Thanks for the tip about... tips. I will probably come back here asking about that when the time comes haha, but is it similar to how you curve on a sharpmaker for the tip of a knife like a PM2?
No problem man, and yea it is similar to the sharpmaker technique. Really, you have to learn that on any kind of sharpening setup, but it's the hardest part of using it imo. The heel also takes some practice. They're both not too hard, you just have to get your own technique down.
 
No problem man, and yea it is similar to the sharpmaker technique. Really, you have to learn that on any kind of sharpening setup, but it's the hardest part of using it imo. The heel also takes some practice. They're both not too hard, you just have to get your own technique down.
I am PUMPED!
Going to sharpen Maxamet... going to reprofile some tips...
I'm going to feel like I'm at the Skyforge in Jorrvaskr!
 
I am PUMPED!
Going to sharpen Maxamet... going to reprofile some tips...
I'm going to feel like I'm at the Skyforge in Jorrvaskr!
Haha hell yea man. Maxamet and s100v are the big steels that I havnt sharpened on my KME yet. I need to reprofile my s110v para 2 so I've been putting it off for a little bit. My maxamet para3 will be coming up soon too but it already has a good profile.
 
Your new kit comes with KME's 50 grit beast which I think of as a specialty stone for sharpening very difficult to profile steels (because of geometry- bushcraft/shovels/mower blades etc, and steel type for example). It will really coarsen up a reprofiled apex. Your edge will then need more time, then say, coming off a 100 grit stone, to KME's 140 grit to clean up your apex. Your CGSW 160 micron is akin to starting a reprofile job with KME's 100 grit diamond (163µ) though they are completely different products. Diemaker recommends using the entire CGSW progression, but you could use your stone thickness compensator and move from Diemaker's 160µ to KME's 140 grit. On second thought, start off using full progressions of both plated KME diamonds starting with your 140 grit, and then full progression of the CGSW bonded diamonds. Mastering full progressions first, will give you a feel and object lessons for their differences, before mixing them. The KME 1500 grit is about 13µ, so end your CGSW progression at the 10µ diamond if interested in comparing.

"am curious about those CGSW stones."
what Skane24 said.
 
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As I mentioned to Hashishiin Hashishiin , the KME 50 grit is quite a harsh stone. I've seen jewelry with smaller diamonds. :) I wouldn't use it on Maxamet as I think it would create a lot of micro-chipping. I'd go with the straight CGSW progression for most knives. The 160 and 80 are very good for reprofiling, and if you go through the whole progression you end up with a near-mirror edge.
 
Use a light hand and you have a life time of home hobby diamond sharpening tools in your hands. I created a new edge on my 61RC Magnacut 940 and started with KME 140 instead of my 100 grit, and was very satisfied with the stones performance.
 
As I mentioned to Hashishiin Hashishiin , the KME 50 grit is quite a harsh stone. I've seen jewelry with smaller diamonds. :) I wouldn't use it on Maxamet as I think it would create a lot of micro-chipping. I'd go with the straight CGSW progression for most knives. The 160 and 80 are very good for reprofiling, and if you go through the whole progression you end up with a near-mirror edge.
Oh, no, I was just curious about that stone because it was so crazy and harsh! I have no intention of letting my Maxamet within spitting distance of that stone 😂 It came today, absolutely pumped up about it! Lots of stones, lapping films, still-in-case (I think?) lapping films/strops, boy, my game just went up a step or two. Thank you, man, I am sure it will serve me well!

Does anybody out there know if there is a similar video for this KME as there is for, say, the Spyderco Sharpmaker?
 
Just get a Ken Onion and spend your time and money using your knives (that will be plenty/very sharp for anything) instead of futzing around with an endless set of options for hand powered sharpening to include systems, clamps, guides, stones, strops, compounds and so on so on ad infinitum. Or not, whatever makes you happy.
 
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