I may have a defective BK2

S

seeker1968

Joined
Jul 12, 2010
Messages
4
I want to qualify and state that I own many knives, and never had a problem sharpening them. I own many that I can shave the edge of paper or hair off my arm with no problem.

I bought an (EDIT:)Kbar Becker BK2 a few months ago (new). I have never been able to get a proper edge on it. I love the design and thickness.

I first sharpened it with a lansky diamond system. I started with the extra course and worked down from that. When I got to the fine diamond stone, it would never take a really good edge. When I was finished, it would never shear through paper consistently through the draw, not like my other knives. I cannot get it as sharp as other 1095 knives I own

I have since sharpened it on a Smith's tri-stone. Same result. I just can't get the edge right.

Tonight on the same set of stones, I was able to get an Ontario RAT 3 sharp enough to shave hair off my arm (same steel).


So what is the issue? Can anyone help?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
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Ontario doesnt make the BK2 :)

You gotta take into account that the BK2 is a thick mother. Of course the rat 3 will slice like butter cause it has a rather thin blade. I cant really get a hair shaving sharp edge on my BK2 either, but thats ok for me because its got a very thick blade and the edge is good enough for the woods. Mine goes through tree limbs like a laser.
 
My mistake. Thank you for the correction.

I was wondering if it was a function of the thickness. I was hoping for a blade that would perform in both regards, sharp and chopping.

I hope Ethan Becker can chime in today!
 
I use a Lansky stone kit, and I can get mine hair raizing sharp. May I ask, are you using the extensions screws that came with the kit? Lansky provides a longer axis and tension screw that is required on blades thicker than 3/16. This is done so that you can maintain a proper angle as the clamp must be parallel with the "slab" of the blade where you clamp. If the clamp is "running" together at the back, then you are shapening on more of an angle than the guide shows. I apologize in advance if I offend, but this was an issue I had early on using guide systems for sharpening.

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No offense, but it sounds like user error more-so than a defective knife... perhaps the thickness of this particular blade compared to ones you've sharpened in the past is just giving you issues that you're not certain how to correct? This is why I always suggest that people learn to sharpen using stones and perhaps mouspad+sandpaper before moving on to other methods... it teaches you get a feel for sharpening, what makes a good edge and how to troubleshoot issues that pop up. Once you have this knowledge, you can put an edge on a knife using practically anything - I put one capable of shaving on my friend's knife using the sidewalk and some cardboard (to win a small bet of course ;))

Not having used a Lansky nor having your knife in hand for inspection, I really don't know where to start as far as correcting the issue. All I can really say is that BK-2s take and hold an edge very well... I've experimented with ~15, ~20 and convex edges of varying levels and all have been capable of shaving.
 
Agreed, there's no way possible you can compare a thick blade against a thinner blade for slicing capabilities.... Especially with a coating on them....

All my thick blade knifes have a pronounced relief cut and convexed edge...

On a thick blade with a coating you're simply not achieving the proper angle...
 
Exactly. Blade Thickness is key here. My BK7 holds an awesome edge and can shave. But the BK11 OWNS it in the sharpness department. That little knife is SHARP.
 
seeker1968 said:
I want to qualify and state that I own many knives, and never had a problem sharpening them. I own many that I can shave the edge of paper or hair off my arm with no problem.

I bought an (EDIT:)Kbar Becker BK2 a few months ago (new). I have never been able to get a proper edge on it. I love the design and thickness.

I first sharpened it with a lansky diamond system. I started with the extra course and worked down from that. When I got to the fine diamond stone, it would never take a really good edge. When I was finished, it would never shear through paper consistently through the draw, not like my other knives. I cannot get it as sharp as other 1095 knives I own

I have since sharpened it on a Smith's tri-stone. Same result. I just can't get the edge right.

Tonight on the same set of stones, I was able to get an Ontario RAT 3 sharp enough to shave hair off my arm (same steel).


So what is the issue? Can anyone help?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Hi, seeker, and welcome to the Becker forum.

You're not the first person who ever had a problem sharpening a blade this thick. I think that's mostly because it's a change from what you're used to.

The 1095 CroVan steel that KA-BAR uses is a superb steel, with a superb heat treat, and can be sharpened to hair-whittling sharpness: I know, because I've done it (just for amusement — I don't really need it that sharp). In other words, it's not the steel, simply your technique.:D

One of the first things you might check is the angle you're sharpening at. Have you tried using a Sharpie or other marker along the edge of the blade? That will allow you to see if you're actually reaching the edge of the blade, or merely removing metal above it.

Next, I would check to see if you're raising a burr on the edge. If you're raising too much of a burr, you might be able to shave arm hair in one direction, but not the other.

Let us know if you've checked these things, so we can help you further. It sounds like you've had some sharpening experience, which makes me think that the problem is simply that you're working on a blade thickness that's new to you. As Moose pointed out, you might need to use the extension screws for your Lansky in order to get the proper angle.

I don't use the Lansky system myself, but I do use the DMT system, which operates in the same way. Using the DMT system, I get hair-popping edges, and you should be able to get them, too, with the Lansky.

Try the marker trick first to see if you're reaching the edges.
 
TheLastDaze said:
what is the DMT system?? I've went from stones to belts.. so I'm curious..

Thanks,
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DMT is probably the largest manufacturer of diamond stones and, arguably, the best. They have more configurations, sizes and grits than you can shake a BK-2 at.

The one I use most often is the Magna Guide system, which operates in a similar fashion to other aligner systems such as the Edge Pro, Lansky, etc. It has some advantages (to me) over most other systems in that the DiaFold/DuoFold stones can also be used freehand in the field if you wish, and the system is only going to set you back around $40 bucks. Here's a link to one offering ( http://www.amazon.com/DMT-DMGEF-Dia...f=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1284057325&sr=8-12 ). I'm including this only for reference and pictures. The same system can be had at any number of other online retailers, too.

I have all the grits that they offer, and they do an outstanding job. Buy them once, and they should be good for life. I use them freehand almost as often as I use the aligner mechanism, and for everything from little slip joint knives up to machetes.

DMT stones will put a hair-popping edge on a blade without too much effort.
 
I would like to reinterate that we are saying you can't sharpen a knife, we just look to solve the easiest a most common problem first. A full 1/4" thick chunk of steel will definitely not fit the mold that most sharpening system designers had in mind when they were FIRST created. DMT actually made a little attachment for 1/4" thick blades until the new design came out. So PLEASE don't feel like we are "throwing down" on you. Moose
 
moosez45 said:
I would like to reinterate that we are saying you can't sharpen a knife, we just look to solve the easiest a most common problem first. A full 1/4" thick chunk of steel will definitely not fit the mold that most sharpening system designers had in mind when they were FIRST created. DMT actually made a little attachment for 1/4" thick blades until the new design came out. So PLEASE don't feel like we are "throwing down" on you. Moose
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The fact that the DMT can be adjusted for seven different angles helps, too. The angle you use on a one-eighth inch thick blade may not be what you want for your quarter inch thick BK-2. The DMT system is easily adjusted to compensate for the thickness of the BK-2.
 
dawsonbob said:
The fact that the DMT can be adjusted for seven different angles helps, too. The angle you use on a one-eighth inch thick blade may not be what you want for your quarter inch thick BK-2. The DMT system is easily adjusted to compensate for the thickness of the BK-2.
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My DMT clamp wouldn't even open far enough to get a 1/4" thick spin into. Its pretty old too, I think around 9-10 yrs old. I still got it, but I only use it with my 10" benchstone. Moose
 
moosez45 said:
My DMT clamp wouldn't even open far enough to get a 1/4" thick spin into. Its pretty old too, I think around 9-10 yrs old. I still got it, but I only use it with my 10" benchstone. Moose
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A lot has to do with how you adjust the front brass screw. Mine was frustrating at first, too, till I got that front screw adjusted properly. Even then, it's a tight fit. Once adjusted, it works just fine.

DMT says it can be used on blades up to 3/8 inch thick, but I'd have to see that one to believe it.;)

You bring up a good point, though. For those who don't know, the DMT clamp can be used with bench stones, too. Thanks for pointing that out (I'd forgotten about that feature).
 
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