I need a good axe

GWashington1732

GWashington1732

Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
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I keep spending money on axes and handles but they keep breaking. I need one with a handle and head that will last through several years of hard use instead of several months or, in some cases, hours. I have already tried True Temper, the handle broke after about a year, and some that I got at the hardware store, Collins Axe I believe, only lasted a day or so of normal chopping and they replaced it twice before refusing a refund. I need it to do pretty normal tasks, splitting medium-sized logs, chopping branches into managable pieces, cutting down smaller trees, chopping roots, etc. But I need it to do these tasks on a pretty much daily basis and it's getting pretty frustrating to have to keep replacing these things. Does anyone have a suggestion for an axe that will not break under hard, continuous, daily use?
 
are u a lumberjack?? cause an axes iv used lasted for years.. not every day buta few weeks a year ... maybe fiberglass or composite handle??
 
Get yourself an Estwing axe with metal handles. It is a jack of all trades. The Estwing, while not the best axe, it does the job and takes a lot of abuse.

Most good axes are expensive specialized tools. The most popular Gransfors Bruks axes are mostly limbing or felling patterns, designed for the typical woods found in the boreal forests (pine, birch, aspen). GB also makes splitting axes and mauls tuned for those tasks. If you want expensive axes, you might want to consider to get a separate felling/limbing axe and a maul or splitting axe for heavy splitting and the roots. No lumberjack or farmer did all the different tasks you mentioned with a single tool. It can be done, but not efficiently. When a tool is used for something it is not designed to do or not optimized for, people tend to compensate with brute force. This is a sure way to get hurt or get the tool busted.

Good luck!
 
Snow & Neally cost less than Gransfors and are an often overlooked fine axe.

Like the others said, get a felling axe, a limbing axe and a splitting maul.
 
2nd on the fiberglass handle. My hubby has split wood for two families for over 20 years with a fiberglass handled [covered with abs] maul.
 
For the money, Wetterlings is an excellent choice. If money is no object then Gransfors is the way to go. A couple USA made options are Council Tool and the aforementioned Snow & Neally.

I have both Gransfors and Wetterlings and the Wetterlings is a great user. Not finished as finely or artfully as the Gransfors but is also hand forged and holds an edge very well and comes with a quality hickory handle. If you are a purist, you'll want a wooden handle. For the strongest handle it is hard to beat fiberglass. If you go with wood, sand the handle then treat with multiple coats of boiled linseed oil (can be picked up at any hardware store).

One more option, check out ebay for old hand forged axes. Pick up an old Collins, Mann, or my favorite (Kelly) axe head then pick out your own handle. House Handle has good stuff at reasonable prices. http://www.househandle.com/

Lastly, you are looking for one axe to do many things. Different axes would work much better for splitting and chopping. Two axes (one for splitting and another general use) would cover most of your chores much better than one.
 
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For you, Fiskars or Estwing. Also, make sure the grain of the wood handle is appropriately aligned before you buy, its the number one reason for handle breakage.
 
You did not specify why the collins failed several times. I heat with wood only, and cut and process my own firewood. If I were you, I would go with a fiberglass handle. 10 years ago I bought the handle kit and installed it on a 4 or 5 lb. U.S. Army head that was given to me. The handle is still fine. If you go this route, really pay attention to the cast and camber of your head in relationship to the handle after pouring in the epoxy. Once the epoxy sets you are stuck with the results. I personally dislike synthetic handles, but I now have seven axes, hatchets, and splitting mauls with them, and have yet to even damage one.
 
jw2n said:
You did not specify why the collins failed several times. I heat with wood only, and cut and process my own firewood. If I were you, I would go with a fiberglass handle. 10 years ago I bought the handle kit and installed it on a 4 or 5 lb. U.S. Army head that was given to me. The handle is still fine. If you go this route, really pay attention to the cast and camber of your head in relationship to the handle after pouring in the epoxy. Once the epoxy sets you are stuck with the results. I personally dislike synthetic handles, but I now have seven axes, hatchets, and splitting mauls with them, and have yet to even damage one.
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The collins I bought from the local hardware store and three of their handles broke within the day they were bought, this happened with their three of their sledgehammers too while using them to drive a wedge(maybe it's just me but I don't think that's an unreasonable task for a sledgehammer). The handle on one sledgehammer split long ways somehow, on the first or second hit. So I stopped shopping at that hardware store altogether because they sell nothing but junky tools that Wal MArt would be ashamed of.
I figured out that the True Temper axe broke because some idiot somewhere along the line was pounding on it with a sledgehammer, probably trying to use it a a maul, and not only shattered the handle but bent the head. :grumpy: I got a new True Temper splitter that no one else is allowed to use and am getting a new chopping axe next payday that no one else will be allowed to use. Bought a new sledge I think it's a True Temper too.
 
Do you leave your tools outside or do you bring them inside at night? If the wood handles aren't cared for, they can rot out inside the eye, creating a weak spot that will break.

I agree that it sounds like you need a fiberglass handle. Try the Fiskars splitting axe and chopping axes, they work well and you will never need to worry about taking care of the handles. They cut decently to start, but hold a much better edge after a good sharpening (with a file, clean cinder block, etc; followed by finer abrasives until you have a razor sharp edge).
 
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