I need a new flashlight. .. .

S

shadowfax

Joined
Jan 29, 2001
Messages
172
I'm looking for a light that's between a normal sized one (2-3 C or D cell sized) and a mini-maglite. Any size in that range is fine. I don't care what batteries it uses - - I can get any battery i need 4 blocks from work - - - as long as the batteries are in the flashlight itself and not in a satchel like that one searchlight I saw on here awhile back. I want it to be at least water resistant, preferably waterproof. I want to be able to run it for however long I need to without worrying about thermal shutdown. I want the brightest light I can get that meets the above requirements. If it's not brighter than my 6 D-cell maglite then I won't bother ;)

Oh, and something that wouldn't require me to sell my dog to front the cash for it would be nice too ;)

So what should I get?

 
Wow, you don't ask for much. Do you prefer rechargable, lithium, or alkaline?

Brock
 
Hey my specs are far less stringent than the mil specs for fruitcake
wink.gif


Regarding the batteries- - I don't care. I'll use whatever battery the flashlight that meets my needs uses.

 
I would suggest the SF 9N, but I'm not sure (doubt) it is waterproof. You may want to check the Sure Fire website as they have some newer models with polymer bodies that I think are waterproof. I know their M2 Centurion is watertight and comes with regular (60 lumens) and high powered (110 lumens?) lamp assemblies, thermal shutdown may be an issue. Use Duracell 123's and I think you'd be OK with the 60 lumen lamp.

Chris
 
Hummm, I would suggest the M2, because of the waterproof part. It is the only Surefire that comes standard waterproof. Actually I have heard that you can order upgraded "O" rings for any light that has a Pyrex lens and it will become waterproof. They will all take rain or even a dunk in the sink fine, but more than about a foot they can start leaking depending on the condition of the "O" rings. For a truly waterproof light I would look at a UKE 2L, or the 4AA version of the same light. The Pelican Stealth (4AA) is also bright and waterproof. Of you want the ability to "focus" or change from a spot to flood the Streamlight Scorpion is the one to go with. You can check out my site for more info on the lights, I am just a collector or flashaholic, I do not sell any lights.

Brock - http://www.uwgb.edu/nevermab/flash.htm
 
about the new SureFire M2:

Two Lamp Modules
P60 - 65Lu for 60mins
P61 - 120Lu for 20mins

Waterproof

Shock Isolated

Please Note:
Thermal Shutdown of the DL123As ONLY occurs with the SureFire N62 500Lu Lamp Module used in the 12PM, 12ZM, M4 & SureFire Leopard.

I've heard that new production Millennium Series Flashlights; NewM2, and M3[new style] should have the capability to be waterproof. Also, that the Millennium TurboHeads with Pyrex Lenses will have improved seals.

I believe it is one of the aims of the Millennium Series. The new M2 & M3, & Pyrex lensed TurboHead Flashlights should all be very highly water-resistant at the least, or waterproof. (Is anything 100% waterproof?!)

The difficulty is that there are many Millennium Series Flashlights already produced which will not have these features.

I hope SureFire offer upgrade kits (new 'o' rings & new Bezels for those models for which is it appropriate)

Al

[This message has been edited by Size15s (edited 03-24-2001).]
 

I'd take a look at the Streamlight Scorpion. At around $35 this Lithium powered light is brigher than a 5D Maglite. I also like the fact you can focus the beam.
 
If you need the ultimate flashlight and size, weight, and price are not a factor, then go with the new M2.

If size and weight are a factor then go with the E2.

If price is a factor then go with the Scorpion.

Can't go wrong with any of the three. Bang for buck wise and overall - E2.

Bucky
 
I personally hate flashlights that you can focus the beams.

I would agree with Bucky with the exception of the Scorpion.

If price is a factor, go for the SureFire G2.

Al
 
Whoops. Looks like I'm stumbling over a term I thought I understood, namely lumens. I always thought of 110 lumens as being somewhat dim. Apparantly I'm wrong? What would that be expressed in terms of candlepower?

 
For a discussion on lumens, candlepower, lux and other terms, go HERE

To answer your question, a lumen is a unit of luminous flux. It = 1.464 x 10-3 W at 555 nm, or = 1/(4pi) candela (only if isotropic).

The candela is the base unit in light measurement, and is defined as follows: a 1 candela light source emits 1 lumen per steradian in all directions (isotropically). A steradian is defined as the solid angle which, having its vertex at the center of the sphere, cuts off an area equal to the square of its radius. The number of steradians in a beam is equal to the projected area divided by the square of the distance.
So, 1 steradian has a projected area of 1 square meter at a distance of 1 meter. Therefore, a 1 candela (1 lm/sr) light source will similarly produce 1 lumen per square foot at a distance of 1 foot, and 1 lumen per square meter at 1 meter. Note that as the beam of light projects farther from the source, it expands, becoming less dense. In fig. 7.4, for example, the light expanded from 1 lm/ft2 at 1 foot to 0.0929 lm/ft2 (1 lux) at 3.28 feet (1 m).

I should note that one lumen per square foot is equal to one foot candle per square foot.

Further, an old name for the candela is a candle power.

Thus, the simple answer to your question is that a light of one candela (or one candle power) produces one lumen per steradian. This assumes isotropic radiation, remember.

Hope this helps, Walt

 
So to work out the beam Candela, you need to work out the area of the beam (which needs to be circular and uniform) and know the distance from the lens.

The Beam Candela (BCd) is equal to the number of lumens divided by the (beam area divided by twice the distance (to the lens, squared)

BCd = Lu/(A/2x(DxD))

This comes up with a rather low value.

It's based on a few assumptions, including but not limited to;

The central Beam is circluar.
It is of uniform intensity.
The area required should actually be a curved part of a sphere rather than a flat circle (the difference is not really that important as there are so many other assumptions)

The Lumens value of the centre beam for SureFires was said to be about 75% of the total rated output. This is a guess.

The problem with this is that I get very low Beam Candela values. Maybe the CP values of other flashlights are not Beam Candela?

OR, I could be writing rubbish!
wink.gif


Al
 
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