I need a new safe - any thoughts or experiences.

[Gus Kalanzis]

This is an area that I do not have much experience in, so any ideas or sources would be great. I hope others can use the info.

My basic requirements are:

1 hour fire rated at 1300 degrees.

No seams (except for door). Keep away the idiot with a crowbar.

800 lbs. or more. If they are going to take the safe they are going to earn it.

Looks decent inside and out. (ok useless, but my house is ugly enough)

Ability to use dehumidifier. (I am not a fan of rust on my or anyones knives.)

Bolts on all four sides of the door over 1 inch in diameter. (This is going to be the main place an amature will try to breach.)

Enough security to cause the vast majority of jerks that want to steal to leave empty handed in disgust if they have not become dog food for Gretta and Luna. The elite jerk would not want to waste time with my house anyway

These buggers are expensive. (You can get a darn nice knife for what they cost

)
Found one today while I was shopping with Calvin Cooledge after the knife show, but I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for sources or information.

Mandatory knife content: It is mostly for my collection, but it has a small rack for rifles too.

Thanks in advance,
Gus


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" The real art of living is to keep alive the longing in human beings to become greater versions of themselves." Laurens Van der Post in memory of James Mattis

[This message has been edited by Gus Kalanzis (edited 02-17-2001).]

 

[GigOne]

Gus,

Mail comin' to ya.......

 

[Sid Post]

What price range are you looking for?
How big (real dimensions)?
Are you willing to trade size for increased security?

I personally use a Security Products "Inferno" model which will not char paper in a severe house fire. It is was built (custom) with quarter inch plate and has good bolt extension and plenty of'em as well. The paint on this safe is such that it is more of a piece of furniture then your typical safe. They also offer painted scenes of ELk hunts, Duck hunts, etc.

The electronic lock (S&G) is well worth the money for convenience alone. Spin dials work well but, with the added time (hassle) you will find yourself leaving the door open when you walk away to talk on the phone.

I would also encourage you to buy the biggest one you possibly can. It is a whole lot cheaper to buy one large safe then two smaller ones. You will find your self putting things in the safe you probably don't consider now like, car titles, jewelry and, photo albums (remember the statement above about charing paper?).

With regards to weight, remember the weight of the contents is added to the empty safe weight. In my case somewhere between 1900 and 2000 pounds empty with another 500 pounds or so is stuff. A safe like this is a real tough one to move so, keep that in mind if you plan on moving to a new house anytime soon.

Stay Sharp,
Sid


[This message has been edited by Sid Post (edited 02-18-2001).]

 

[CCM]

Gus,

I really like my Liberty (I think the model is the Lincoln). I know that you can find a model that meets all your specifications. I also agree with SidPost, the S and G lock is worth the extra doe. SidPost also mentioned a great model of safe. Between the three (and a Browning), I got the Liberty because it was a great deal.

Gus you are quite right, they are very expensive, and my advice is not to buy one that gives you enough room right now. Buy one that will give you enogh room 10 years from now.

At first I had plenty of room for my handguns and longguns.

When I got married, My wife claimed a shelf in the safe for her jewelry and a pistol (the lady shoots better then me)!!

Then I got into knives, you run out of room pretty fast.

Good Luck,
Chuck

 

[JKS]

There are many nice safes out there, but I am going to upgrade from my present (and too small) Cannon to a Liberty. I cannot stress enough to get a safe that will accomodate your future storage needs, especially if you expand your long gun collection. Those "24 gun" safes get awfully small when you start adding your scoped rifles.

-John-

 

[Gus Kalanzis]

Thanks folks. I really appreciate the experience conveyed. I was about to get a "smaller size" 5" x 3" by 4" thinking knives and a few guns and I see now that it would be a mistake. Hope this information helps others too.
Gus

 

[Richard]

Hey Gus, as a locksmith, I will toss in my few cents here. The info posted by others is pretty good advice. I would just add a few questions to ask as you are shopping. First off, no matter how heave the safe is, it never hurts to have it bolted down.

Additional things to look for. Most good quality safes should have 'hard plates' protecting the bolt on the actual lock. Make sure the one you get has that. Also, make sure it has a 're-locker' (all but the cheapest safes should have this). A re-locker is a secondary lock that engages in the event the primary lock is compromised.

Dial vs. electronic lock. I myself prefer dials, however if you get electronic the S&G is a good lock. Things to remember with electric: They actually use batteries. Make sure when it beeps to tell you they are low that you replace them. If they go dead and are not replaced in a timely manner it can 'lose' the combo...then ya gotta call somebody like me

With dial or electric, make sure and have it serviced. Also, if you ever have periods where the combo wont work the first time, call a locksmith. I have seen people whose safe wont open and I find out that the lock has been 'acting up' for days or weeks before they call. Its FAR CHEAPER to have any service done the first time it starts giving you problems then to wait until it wont open at all.

Also, do you have a home alarm? If so, you can add the safe to the alarm. It can be 'contacted' like doors and windows and such.

Let me know if ya have any more questions, I'll be glad to help ya any way I can.



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