I need a shoulder filing jig:

Crayola

Crayola

Joined
Sep 23, 1999
Messages
3,831
I am off to a machine shop in a couple of days to get some steel cut and get a quote on a guard shoulder filing jig. You know, a couple of strips of hardened tool steel with... hmm.. if I have to explain it to you I guess you can't help me!

So, if ya know what I'm talking about, what I was wondering is are any of you fine knife makers willing to make me one of these for some $$? I am going to attempt to learn the guard soldering thing and a guard shoulder filing jig should make the job ALOT easier!!

Thanks to those who can help.

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"Come What May..."
 
:
Crayola there's an interesting guard & tang soldering jig in the March issue of Blade Mag.
It looks pretty simple to build.
You might check it out.
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Crayola:

Seems like this is the recent rage. I guess what I have been using is "jig" of sort. My intent is to seat the guard to the slot below the ricasso and then solder. To this end I place the guard onto the blade, slipping a valve intake spring over the blade tang and snug it to the guard. Then I place the blade tang into a vise, taking up the slack between the bottom of the valve spring and the jaws of the vise. Once I get the guard snugged where I want it on the blade, I push down on the blade (very carefully) and compress the valve spring slightly and then tighten up the vise. You should have a blade pointed into the direction of your choice (should be straight up) with the pressure of the valve spring pushing upward against the guard. Once you have the guard where you want it, begin the soldering process. The "airiness" of the valve spring will not hamper you in applying heat to the tang below the guard to "draw" the solder into the joint. This isn't my idea, but I can't remember where I read it (somewhere on this forum). But it works great! When the solder and clean up is over you release the valve spring and the guard is just where you want it. Try it--it is cheaper than buying a jig!

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Try a RAK-(Random Act of Kindness)-you'll like it!
 
I think this last post is a good idea to add to the soldering process...but what Crayola is talking about is a needed step to get there.

You've gotta have a tight fit to begin with, and he wants a hardened set of parralels to file his ricasso to tang junction square.

If that's not square and true, a guy has a hell of a time doing much with solder.

Just my 2cents.
wink.gif

Nick
 
Crayola Man,

I use “steel parallel sets” to file the shoulders on my knives. I was lucky and bought mine at a used tool store and paid only a few bucks for them.

Mine are 1/2” thick, 6” long, and 2” wide. Mine also have two rows of 1/4” holes which make them very versatile for holding any blade shape or size…

I would suggest you also check some of your local machine shops if there are no used tool stores in your area, in the meantime, here is the web address for Grizzly Tools parallel sets.

http://grizzlyindustrial.com/fcgi-bin/lookup.fcgi/products/lookup.cfg?q=item&kw=G5679

Good luck and good filing…

Bruce Jensky
 
Thanks everyone! Parallel sets: thats what I want! I have read about the spring trick before: I think its in my Loveless book actually!

Nick hit the nail on the head: I want the jig, which I will now call parallel bars, so that the shoulders will be as square as square can be so that I have a tight fit.

Thanks for the help so far everyone.

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"Come What May..."
 
Crayola, I can make you one. I think you are wanting a set of full hardened paralells that are bolted together. The blade slides between them and tighten the bolts to hold it in place for filing the blade square for the gaurd. I use mine for making the plunge cuts even when grinding also. Email me if still interested. Bruce
 
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