I need help finding a handle bolt!

K

Khromo

Joined
May 25, 2018
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206
I recently purchased a LionSteel M2M. Fixed M390 blade, micarta scales, skeletonized tang. After the postman left it on the doorstep, it started raining. It was submerged in a puddle by the time I found it!

I decided to remove the scales to make sure the cavity in the tang wasn't full of water. I disassembled, dried and lubed, and everything looked fine.

Then I cross-threaded one of the handle bolts during reassembly! Is it possible that I am not as smart as I think I am?!?!

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All I need is a bolt with a 5/16" head, able to pass through a 15/64" tang hole, with an installed overall length of about 11/16". If I use an aftermarket bolt I will need two, so they match. My regular sources only sell bolts intended for permanent installs.

I figured it would probably be easier to replace them both with aftermarket bolts, as the vendor and manufacturer seem to find it difficult to handle a problem this small. No biggy, I expect someone will have a source for this kind of bolt, and I will just replace them both.

Thanks in advance for your assistance!
 
kobold said:
I would contact the maker as my first attempt.
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My first attempt was to contact the manufacturer, my second attempt was to contact the retailer. No response from either. I thought I addressed that in the original post, but I may not have been clear.
 
I don't know if it helps, but for whatever it might be worth, the handle screws on my Lionsteel M5 are metric, 4mm (the metric designation for 4mm screws is M4).

McMaster sells a wide variety of metric screws. If I'm reading your post right, the head diameter of your screws is 5/16ths", in metric that's about 8mm, McMaster sells stainless steel M4 Torx and Philips head screws with 8mm dia heads.

And again, if I'm reading you right, you need screws with a threaded length of 11/16ths", which is around 17mm (a little longer than 17mm). McMaster sells the Torx screws I mentioned above with 8mm dia heads, in 16mm length, as well as other lengths, but 16mm is the closest they have to 17mm. The part number for these screws is 90362A122.

If you go to the McMaster website and do a search for that part number you will see the screws I'm referring too.

If by "installed overall length" you are referring to the screw from the very tip of the threaded end to the very top of the screw head, then McMaster sells stainless hex drive screws with head diameters of 7.6mm, and overall lengths of 16.2 mm. The part number for those is 92095A193.

They also sell a stainless M4 Philips head screw with an 8mm dia head, and an overall length of 17.2mm. Part number 92000A224

Of course this is all based on the assumption that your handle screws are M4, and that I'm reading your description of the screws right.

Knowing the exact, correct size of the screws you want would make it easier to recommend a source.
 
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killgar said:
I don't know if it helps, but for whatever it might be worth, the handle screws on my Lionsteel M5 are metric, 4mm (the metric designation for 4mm screws is M4).

McMaster sells a wide variety of metric screws. If I'm reading your post right, the head diameter of your screws is 5/16ths", in metric that's about 8mm, McMaster sells stainless steel M4 Torx and Philips head screws with 8mm dia heads.

And again, if I'm reading you right, you need screws with a threaded length of 11/16ths", which is around 17mm (a little longer than 17mm). McMaster sells the Torx screws I mentioned above with 8mm dia heads, in 16mm length, as well as other lengths, but 16mm is the closest they have to 17mm. The part number for these screws is 90362A122.

If you go to the McMaster website and do a search for that part number you will see the screws I'm referring too.

If by "installed overall length" you are referring to the screw from the very tip of the threaded end to the very top of the screw head, then McMaster sells stainless hex drive screws with head diameters of 7.6mm, and overall lengths of 16.2 mm. The part number for those is 92095A193.

They also sell a stainless M4 Philips head screw with an 8mm dia head, and an overall length of 17.2mm. Part number 92000A224

Of course this is all based on the assumption that your handle screws are M4, and that I'm reading your description of the screws right.

Knowing the exact, correct size of the screws you want would make it easier to recommend a source.
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Thank you, killgar! Outstanding! I suspected they might be metric, but what do I know.

The part numbers and terms you provided should help me navigate the McMaster website, which can be challenging! You helped me, I hope I can help you some day!
 
Still looking. I had to drill out the old bolt, so I need both male and female parts.
 
That could be trickier. Do a search on McMaster for "binding barrels". Maybe you can find one in the right size.
 
An alternative is to use an appropriately sized machine screw and a self-clinching fastener, which functions well as an anti-spin round nut.
 
I'm surprised that suppliers like K&G and Jantz don't carry this sort of fastener.

I am tempted to do a permanent install with Loveless bolts and epoxy, but I am annoyed at the poor performance from the vendor and manufacturer.
 
I've been using stainless machine screws and self-clinching fasteners for all sorts of handles ever since I discovered the method, including replacing rivets on old worn knives with damaged scales, etc. and they work great. They're an off-the-shelf part that, while SLIGHTLY specialty, are often found at common hardware stores that have decent selections. If you have a local Fastenal branch they should be a stock item there in several sizes, but of course online you can just order whatever you need.
 
Ideally you'll settle on a size you like and then get yourself a drill bit and counterbore that match so you can get nice flat-bottomed holes. Counterbores can be a little annoying to track down but when you do and get the right size they make fitting the fasteners a cinch. Online you can often find them from places that sell hardware for electronics (like standoffs, spacers, etc) or sheet metal since they're usually used for adding strong threads to materials like circuit boards or sheet metal machine cases/housings that are too thin to support being tapped. But the little flange and integral serrated washer on their underside works great for gripping firmly against whatever handle material you're using, and they're CHEAP compared to cutlery-specific hardware.
 
Khromo said:
Is it possible that I am not as smart as I think I am?!?!
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Such re-calibrations do need to be performed every once in a while. ;)

Khromo said:
I suspected they might be metric, but what do I know.
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You can always go down to your local hardware store and check the threads of your remaining good bolt. Most hardware stores have something like a thread checker mounted somewhere with the fasteners for sale. You can find the hole that matches your threads by screwing your bolt into it. That will tell you what you've got.
 
Guy McVer said:
You can always go down to your local hardware store and check the threads of your remaining good bolt. Most hardware stores have something like a thread checker mounted somewhere with the fasteners for sale. You can find the hole that matches your threads by screwing your bolt into it. That will tell you what you've got.
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Thanks, Guy. My problem is that I had to drill out the original bolt, destroying both male and female. I was hoping one of knifemaker's supply shops had something like this on the shelf, but I'm not finding it.

Since I really like this knife, I am considering putting a fancy wood or bone handle on it. The blade is hard and it takes a fine edge. I can see some stabilized bone on there.
 
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