I need help with a polishing / controlled patina job!

The_Iron_Joe

Knifemaker, Jeweller. Custom Books Open!
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May 3, 2012
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I put this in Maintenance, Tinkering and Embellishment, but I want to see if anyone in General has some good answers...

I'm so very sick and tired of 14C28N blades from KAI rusting up on me. First my Skyline, then my Clash... and now my ZT 560CBCF's upper half. I removed the rust spots quickly after noticing, but I can't bring myself to carry the knife if it'll just rust up from some minor sweat or other moisture. Lubing it up every day isn't a very appealing option.

So I want to know the most effective method for creating a mirror polish-- while keeping the S110V portion of the blade unaffected. My second option would be to create a forced patina using fruit juices... ANYTHING to protect the blade from rust.

Can someone point me in the right direction? I want to carry this knife again.
 
Over 100 views and no replies? C'mon guys, even stories of your own polishing / patina jobs could really help!
 
I put this in Maintenance, Tinkering and Embellishment, but I want to see if anyone in General has some good answers...

I'm so very sick and tired of 14C28N blades from KAI rusting up on me. First my Skyline, then my Clash... and now my ZT 560CBCF's upper half. I removed the rust spots quickly after noticing, but I can't bring myself to carry the knife if it'll just rust up from some minor sweat or other moisture. Lubing it up every day isn't a very appealing option.

So I want to know the most effective method for creating a mirror polish-- while keeping the S110V portion of the blade unaffected. My second option would be to create a forced patina using fruit juices... ANYTHING to protect the blade from rust.

Can someone point me in the right direction? I want to carry this knife again.

You'd need something stronger than fruit juice to force a patina on stainless, something like etching solution. I would be very hesitant to acid wash a composite blade. You might need to find a good rust preventive and use it regularly. It's not a huge pain.
 
The issue is that I may not be home and able to use the good rust preventive for a few days at a time, often not carrying much on me besides what's in my pockets. If that's the case, I'd like to just take the knife and not worry about it, like I do with my Benchmade 940. And if I end up doing a patina, I'll probably coat the S110V portion of the blade with something I can remove after the wash.

Either way I haven't completely made up my mind yet.
 
The issue is that I may not be home and able to use the good rust preventive for a few days at a time, often not carrying much on me besides what's in my pockets. If that's the case, I'd like to just take the knife and not worry about it, like I do with my Benchmade 940. And if I end up doing a patina, I'll probably coat the S110V portion of the blade with something I can remove after the wash.

Either way I haven't completely made up my mind yet.

The main thing I would be concerned about with the acid wash is the point where the S110V is brazed to the 14C28N.
 
PCB etchant from Radio Shack diluted with water 50/50 will do the trick, fingernail polish on the parts that you don't want etched.
 
I tried this with my Kershaw Rake, and the 14C28N started pitting while the CPM-D2 edge was unaffected.
 
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