I've been working on creating a Medieval Eating Knife. I don't have a forge, so I decided to use a Tramontina machete and cut the knife steel from it. Everything has gone fine until it came time to drill the pin holes. I did the same thing in the past with a chef's knife and had no problem drilling through the steel using a drill press. However, this time is very different. I've tried everything including using brand new carbide bits. Even after sharpening them nothing but heat and breaking. I altered the speed of the press to coincide with the recommended speed on the chart. Nothing! I've tried using regular lubricating oil and cutting oil. Nothing! I need help. I've already purchased the pins and handle slabs. This knife will be made! I just need some advice as to how to get my pin holes drilled. Please! Any advice is appreciated.
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I Need Help!
- Thread starter JerryS
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Is this machete SS or carbon steel? If it's carbon steel, keep the blade part cool but heat the handle area where you need holes with a torch to temper it softer, you'll want it quite hot to get it soft enough, but carbide drill bits should have no issue I'd imagine.
Bigfattyt
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I'm a terrible one to give advice. I've had lots of trouble with drilling knife steels.
One trick I used when trying to drill was to take the drill press, and pull the arm down, make contact with the steel and turn the drill chuck by hand....... no power....no hest...
Seems stupid, but I've used it when even heating the steel up and softening the tang did not yield results.
I've never had carbide bits.
Another issue was my drill press has some flex in the table. I will put a small anvil underneath the drill table with a 2x4 on top to keep from hitting the anvil face with the drill. Makes the table rock solid, which helps.
One trick I used when trying to drill was to take the drill press, and pull the arm down, make contact with the steel and turn the drill chuck by hand....... no power....no hest...
Seems stupid, but I've used it when even heating the steel up and softening the tang did not yield results.
I've never had carbide bits.
Another issue was my drill press has some flex in the table. I will put a small anvil underneath the drill table with a 2x4 on top to keep from hitting the anvil face with the drill. Makes the table rock solid, which helps.
The listing says high carbon steel. I feared I'd have to go the heating route in the end, but was looking for an easier answer. I guess I'll go out tomorrow and buy a torch. What color should I look for to indicate I've softened the temper?
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Dremel and Carbide Burrs
The cutting speed in the center tip is zero, so use a too small ball and use it sideways.
Then open it up to size with a cone.
The cutting speed in the center tip is zero, so use a too small ball and use it sideways.
Then open it up to size with a cone.
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Very hot, basically a black color, if you have the blade part in water you can go right to dull red heat.
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Carbide likes speed. You might try using a smaller bit for a pilot hole, and then work your way up to final size. The smaller the bit, the faster your drill press needs to be spinning.
You might be able to get away with a carbide tipped masonry bit, though your hold won't be as precise. As for cutting oil, it may not make much of a difference on hardened steel. If you're using WD40 or a 3-in-1, I wouldn't even bother. A heavy oil or some sulfurized oil might help, or it may just burn off as soon as you start drilling. If you don't see any material coming out of the hole, give it a bit more pressure.
If you can minimize stick out and run out of the bit, that will also make a difference.
You might be able to get away with a carbide tipped masonry bit, though your hold won't be as precise. As for cutting oil, it may not make much of a difference on hardened steel. If you're using WD40 or a 3-in-1, I wouldn't even bother. A heavy oil or some sulfurized oil might help, or it may just burn off as soon as you start drilling. If you don't see any material coming out of the hole, give it a bit more pressure.
If you can minimize stick out and run out of the bit, that will also make a difference.
Does a regular blue bottle torch get hot enough or do I need something with a bit more power?
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If you're just trying to soften a spot like a pin hole that will be fine.
Carbide bits should drill hole in any known steel on this planet . Without any doubt !
Can you post picture of that carbide bits ? Or some link .....?
Strange , HSS drill bits should be enough , it s thin machete should be much bellow 60 hrc .........
I was thinking the same thing. Here's the listing. If you're going to tell me they're garbage and that is my problem, I would agree. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MCGS3DV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Those are cobalt HSS bits, not carbide.
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- Aug 9, 2002
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As everyone else has said use Carbide (not Cobalt)
i drill hardened knife blades all the time on Every knife i've ever made.. try a cheap 1/8 carbide tipped cement drill
it should cut with downward pressure not a great hole but a hole .. carbide spade bits work to not pretty but a hole
then you can enlarge the hole with a carbide burr.. i have a crap load of just solid carbide just for making precise holes
in anything i ever need to ..
i drill hardened knife blades all the time on Every knife i've ever made.. try a cheap 1/8 carbide tipped cement drill
it should cut with downward pressure not a great hole but a hole .. carbide spade bits work to not pretty but a hole
then you can enlarge the hole with a carbide burr.. i have a crap load of just solid carbide just for making precise holes
in anything i ever need to ..
One more brief question. Are all carbide bits tungsten?
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Jerry no
just buy a cheap 1/8 cement drill .. they are like $5 at most hardware stores/Home Depot/Lowes
a "Proper" carbide drill will be average $20-$40..
a Dremel carbide burr will be about $10 but not drill a hole very well, it will make the hole bigger pretty easy but the tip is not really well made for drilling..
don't make this a big problem for yourself just but the bit and use it .. hell buy 2 so if you need to later or one breaks you got a spare..
just buy a cheap 1/8 cement drill .. they are like $5 at most hardware stores/Home Depot/Lowes
a "Proper" carbide drill will be average $20-$40..
a Dremel carbide burr will be about $10 but not drill a hole very well, it will make the hole bigger pretty easy but the tip is not really well made for drilling..
don't make this a big problem for yourself just but the bit and use it .. hell buy 2 so if you need to later or one breaks you got a spare..
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Home Depot should have some 5/32" or 3/16" diameter bits for installing Tapcon screws into concrete. They tend to drill just a little oversized, but that shouldn't be a huge problem. If it is, you can always reduce the diameter a little bit with an SC or diamond abrasive.
You may want to put a backer of some kind under the blade, as these bits can cause a little bit of blow out in some steels if you're not careful.
You may want to put a backer of some kind under the blade, as these bits can cause a little bit of blow out in some steels if you're not careful.