i need more knowledge.

E

evildeadedd

Joined
Mar 31, 2015
Messages
83
I need more info from the axeperts around here. Short and sweet, I know there a way to test the steel quality on a head, but how do you do it? The more I stare at these pictures of this axe the more worried I am getting. I want to know if there a way I can check the steel quality without risking taking it into the woods and it being junk.
 
Where do I test it? is it just a matter of experience to tell if an edge is too soft? I am nervous about some of what looks like pretty heavy damage to the top of the head. maybe it not as bad as pics make it Look.
 
The file will "bite" pretty good if the steel is soft, harder edges will make the file skate off it more than bite.
 
Yup. The easier a file bites the softer it is. Really hard axes will be difficult to file with even a fresh, high quality file.
 
Give it to me straight doc, what
$_57.JPG
took think of this?
 
Looks like someone was crap at beating a wedge in to me. The steel is softer towards the eye and poll so as to prevent it from cracking. Some axes (rafting patterns for example) typically have a hardened poll as well as blade. Some axes are made in two piece construction with a high carbon bit either sandwiched around the low carbon steel, or sandwiched be tween two cheeks of low carbon. I'll show a picture of an Emmerson and Stevens axe from 1954 to show you what I mean once I'm home.
 
Will that effect the useability of the axe you think? think I am going to need to rehandle it? Why are all these axes hung flush? I thought you should leave a little up top? Do I seem like a small child asking all these questions? Uncle taco why is the sky blue?....keep me off the auction site boys think the meds are kicking in. Can't wait to me done with all this medical B.S.
 
Be a shame to rehang it the handle looks to be in good shape other than needing stripped i assume that's varnish on it .

$_57.JPG
 
It just needs another metal wedge.

Just kidding. It's got a really nice shaped handle.
 
I kinda like the way the handle looks. It probably won't need re handling but if it does you're going to have a great time getting those metal wedges out. I prefer to leave a bit up top on fresh hangs just I'm case the habdle moves one way or another on the haft.
 
I would pull all of that crap out of the kerf and re-hang it on the same haft. Factory hafts are / were typically hung flush like that. You should be able to hang it just a bit lower on the handle when you fix it up. If one side of the eye is thicker than the other I wouldn't sweat it. As for the quality of the steel I only have one axe that is hard enough to give a fresh file trouble. Don't worry if the file bites in. If you end up filing on the pole you should notice that material is removed much easier than the bit.
 
I like the handle too, it has character. I just don't know if that's some kinda lacquer or something. That would make bare handed use blistery. Should be a treat trying to clean out that kerf.
 
Beautiful shape to that handle and a lovely colour but the length of it has a pretty severe case of 'grain runout'. Don't be using it as a splitter (ie avoid shocks and overstrikes) or you'll be learning to rehaft sooner rather than later. To familiarize yourself with soft steel vs hard steel merely compare how well a metal file cuts in around the eye or poll vs along the edge of the blade.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Yup. The easier a file bites the softer it is. Really hard axes will be difficult to file with even a fresh, high quality file.
Click to expand...

BTW Fortytwo you were right about the quality of the Pferd files, they are good. That being said I have gained some experience at picking out good used vintage files at garage sales, they are cheaper but I don't think any better. Truth be told probably not as good.
 
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