I need some direction on sharpening systems.

P

PC87

Joined
Dec 27, 2011
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I have a sharpmaker but I am leaning toward the guided systems as I just dont have the time to devote to learning the art of free handing on stones and am not impressed with the SM. I have several quality knives and am just tired of sending them out to be sharpened. I picked up a 560 this weekend and want to begin with a guided system on it.

Can you guys steer me in the right direction concerning this?

I would really appreciate it.

Edit to add: I also need a basic description of inclusive, back bevel, micro bevel, angels/edges. I see you guys with those mirrored edges and it just blows my mind how to get those.
 
I get the mirror edges with an Edge Pro Apex 4. Very little skill required. Kinda expensive. To get the best out of the EP, you need to add a stop collar, a sharpie, a magnet and a mini microscope. All of these add-ons are less than $20. Check the Edge Pro videos by jdavis882 on youtube for tips on using it.

The EP Apex is infinitely adjustable for angle within it's range. If you need extreme bevels, you may want to look at the Edge Pro Pro model.

Another guided system in the same range as the EP is the Wicked Edge. A little higher price. I haven't used it, but people who do seem to like it.

JMHO,
Allen
 
Yes, two choices, with multiple flavors. Edge Pro, or Wicked Edge, they both come with standard or upgraded stones. The standard ones work great for learning. You can get better stones any time.

There is a Wicked Edge forum, which is pretty darn handy. It should be worth a look to you.

The Edge Pro has been around for a long time, and it's still as good as it gets for many guys.

The WE is easier for most people to use, but the EP is a little more versatile. You can't go wrong either way.
 
Thanks so much for the info, I think I will go with the EP for now due to pricing. For my needs I think the EP will do a good job.

thanks for the responses fellers.
 
Lots of guided systems out there - Edge Pro and Wicked Edge are definitely top of the line available. Can't go wrong with either.

Definitions you asked about

The angles are measured from a line going up through the center of the knife from the spine to the cutting edge. 0 degrees would be exactly perpendicular to the spine, like a blank that hasn't been ground at all, both sides are 0 degrees, 90 degrees would be flat - like flattening the edge with a file.

inclusive - so when you sharpen, most knives but not all knives have a bevel on both sides. If both bevels are at 15 degrees, the inclusive is 30. The smaller the inclusive angle the "sharper" the knife. The inclusive on a chisel grind is just the angle on the one bevel - 0 degrees on one side and 30 on the other, again is 30 degrees inclusive.

Back bevel - I suppose this is one of those terms that you would want folks to clarify as I have heard it used several ways. I usually use it to refer to the bevel on the back (not the face) of the knife. Some use it to refer to the primary bevel on a knife too (the relief, the bevel you can see with your eyes and no magnification). On plane irons this term is used differently too

Microbevel - or secondary bevel or cutting bevel (though some users reverse primary and secondary which is why I think microbevel is being used more and more). You grind your relief at say 15 degrees per side, then you come back and adjust your angle up slightly to 17 and put on a tiny bevel right at the cutting edge - this is your microbevel. Your actual inclusive angle is then 34.

Hope that helps. let me know if you want to talk pluses and minuses on various systems out there and what you are hoping to acheive with what you buy

Happy Thanksgiving!
 
Forgot to add to my description - you can now get strops handles for the Lansky system.

Gatco still isn't offering strops.

You can get ultra fine ceramics 1200 grit on Gatco and 2000 grit on Lansky as accessories
 
OldawanBob said:
Lots of guided systems out there - Edge Pro and Wicked Edge are definitely top of the line available. Can't go wrong with either.

Definitions you asked about

The angles are measured from a line going up through the center of the knife from the spine to the cutting edge. 0 degrees would be exactly perpendicular to the spine, like a blank that hasn't been ground at all, both sides are 0 degrees, 90 degrees would be flat - like flattening the edge with a file.

inclusive - so when you sharpen, most knives but not all knives have a bevel on both sides. If both bevels are at 15 degrees, the inclusive is 30. The smaller the inclusive angle the "sharper" the knife. The inclusive on a chisel grind is just the angle on the one bevel - 0 degrees on one side and 30 on the other, again is 30 degrees inclusive.

Back bevel - I suppose this is one of those terms that you would want folks to clarify as I have heard it used several ways. I usually use it to refer to the bevel on the back (not the face) of the knife. Some use it to refer to the primary bevel on a knife too (the relief, the bevel you can see with your eyes and no magnification). On plane irons this term is used differently too

Microbevel - or secondary bevel or cutting bevel (though some users reverse primary and secondary which is why I think microbevel is being used more and more). You grind your relief at say 15 degrees per side, then you come back and adjust your angle up slightly to 17 and put on a tiny bevel right at the cutting edge - this is your microbevel. Your actual inclusive angle is then 34.

Hope that helps. let me know if you want to talk pluses and minuses on various systems out there and what you are hoping to acheive with what you buy

Happy Thanksgiving!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information, that clears things up. I am just wanting to keep my knives sharp and maybe put a mirrored edge on a few or them. I am really just wanting good functional edges that are super sharp.

Happy Thanksgiving!
 
We haven't added it to our line up yet, hopefully next year. You can find it direct from them on their site. Just google KME. I'm not sure if any dealers here on bladeforums carry their stuff or not - I didn't find any recent posts

the silicon carbide and alumina oxide stones in their basic kit won't work as quickly as diamonds will (mainly noticeable when re-profiling), but they also don't put in scratches as deeply. Diamond scratches are more time consuming to polish out (when you are going for that mirror).
 
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