I need Some Tech Help, Big Time!!

L6steel

L6steel

Joined
Sep 23, 1999
Messages
5,855
These two pix are of a 440c bowie blade I've made and had heat treated. I sanded through 500 grit before heat treat and when I got it back, went from 320 through a 600 grit cork belt, then buffed it with greem chrome. That didn't remove the grainieness from the blade so I tried Jackson Lea, and it failed also. Then I tried 600 grit greaseless and it did better, but still didn't get the blade slick. Out of desperation for nothing else to try, I went ahead and white rouged it. You can see the results in the two pix.This is the fourth blade in a row that absolutley will not come out slick and shiney. I'm using the same methods I have always used and they have worked great in the past. Any help or suggestions, short of quiting knife making, will be extremely appreciated!!!! Thanks in advance and take care! Michael
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"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"


[This message has been edited by L6STEEL (edited 12 December 1999).]
 
I got a question, are all of these blade possibly from one bar of steel?

I had some ATS34 I bought from a supplier that shall remain nameless, because they have fixed the problem. And come to find out that they ordered ATS in 4x10 sheet and used a plasma cutter to remove the bars that they needed from the bigger sheet.

Needless to say even after having samples tested it came up with the fact that the steel had been altered before grinding and heat treat, I had the same symptoms as you, sort of like an orange peel texture on everything. Nothing would go to a mirror without the texture showing back up..

Thats the only thing I can think of, corrupted steel...

Alan...
 
l-6 sorry the blade came out bad, i'd just put a 600grt. satin finish on it. i use the bandsaw to cut blades out know.
 
looks like it could be the steel....but the only real orange peel effects ive ever had came from over polishing.....the most important part of buffing is what you do before it...so that you dont have to buff it to death.......i would have to look at it in person to give a more definite answer.... where did you buy it....i have NOT had satisfaction from admiral....have gotten some rotten bg42 from another source that i use all the time...very very bad bark... sorry i cant be of more help

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
Alan, how did you finish the blades with the orange peel, or did you just toss them??
It does look like orange peel now that you mention it. It came from a 4' bar of 440c I bought from Admiral Steel. When it's sanded with 500 grit, it actually looks like the matrix of the steel's structure, kinda like damascus. Guess I just got a bad bar of steel. I hate to do it to a beautiful blade like this, but I think I'll try bead blasting it. Magnum, I cut my stainless blades out with a bandsaw too. Thanks for the help Alan, Magnum, and Tom!!! Michael

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"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"


[This message has been edited by L6STEEL (edited 13 December 1999).]
 

Tom is right this is an over buffing condition. Go back to the worn out(almost bald) cork belt with green compound on it and belt the blade flat again. The graininess will disappear then buff it quickly(3 to 5 minutes per side) on a sewn buff with green stainless steel cut and colour compound.

I attribute this orange peel to "islands" of harder steel in a soft matrix so I avoid buffing the softer matrix away by spending as little time as possible on a soft backed wheel. Belting the blade as close as possible to mirror before buffing reduces the risk of scooping out the softer metal.



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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com


 
I'll give it a try George.I only have one cork belt. It's been used maybe 4 times. Should I run some steel over it edge wise to wear it down?? Thanks!!!!! Michael

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"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"
 
L6,
If repolishing does not work, try a hand rubbed finish. This type of finish gives the knife a classy look. It also lets the buyer know that you put a lot of effort and time into the piece.
 
It looks *to me* like poor steel combined with too much time on the buffer. I use 3m micron belts in 60, 30, 15, and 9 micron exclusively after heat treat. A 9 micron finish from a good smooth, flat contact wheel is almost good enough to let go without any buffing.

If I remember correctly that you do your grinding on a 6x48 grinder, this may not be an option for you though. Micron belts do not do very well over a flat platen, as the belt substrate is so thin that they tend to wear at the butt joint if used over a steel surface.

If that is the case, I would go back to the grinder with the finest belt you have to get it flat again, and hand rub.

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I love my country! I just don't trust my government!
 
T.J., I just do the rough grinding on my 6 by 48. From there on I use my Wilton with either an 8" or 10" smooth wheel. I'll have to try the micron belts. I am so tired of buffing even when it works!
Barry, I'm sure that would look alot better than bead blasted. I'll try it and see if the blemishes come out. This is an English style bowie with a long thin blade and I thought it would look odd with a bead blasted finish. I sure hope I can salvage it. I need to sell a couple this month, bad. I can't thank you guys enough for the help!!!! I'll let ya know how the knife comes out. Take care! Michael

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"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"
 
just my opinion..but with all the trouble youre having...i would go with a nice satin finish....start with 220 and go all the way up to 800 and you should make the orange peel effect go away and end up with a classy looking blade....get the lines nice and straight.....start at one end and go off the tip.
 
L6
had the same problem with silver.To much buffing was the problem.
Had to use new sand paper.Nice and sharp.If your metal starts to get shiney then your sandpaper is getting wore out.I don,t know how far or what grit you would have to go down to but I would try 600 to 800.Then a buff to remove any scratches then a polish.
On silver I used white diamond then water soluble red rouge.
 
I made an error before, I did take the blade through 600 grit the first time. Hit it today with a used 600 grit and then with my 600 cork belt. Would be an excellent satin finish except for the plunge cut area. To clean it up, I had to go top to edge instead of hilt to tip like the rest of the blade.
I emailed Admiral steel. They got right back to me. They said it sounds like some contamination got in the steel while it was being rolled. They're sending me some for free too! That is very rare when you consider how little I have bought from them. They'll be getting my future business for sure! Thanks once again everyone!! Michael

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"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"
 
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