I need something.

N

NathanExplosion

Joined
Feb 9, 2009
Messages
175
Hey guys.
First off please forgive me if i don't get the terminology right or for my complete ingnorance when it comes to axes, hatchets or tomahawks.
I am looking for an axe(tomahawk, hatchet. Again, sorry for the noobieness guys haha) for primarily chopping and it will accompany me on quite a few outings in the near future. It must be big enough to fall trees, but not so big that i cant hike a nice ways in the woods with it. As for price, well...lets say around the 100 dollar mark? I have no idea how axe pricing works so lets just say that i want good quality but i also don't want it to break the bank either.

Thanks guys,

Nathan.
 
I also have and like that axe. Wetterlings makes a comparable size, which will save you a few bucks, but I was willing to pay a few extra bucks for the fit and finish of the GB.

DancesWithKnives
 
I really like my Collins Hudson Bay pattern axe. It's the same as a Snow & Neally Hudson Bay, only 1/3 the cost.
1 3/4 pound head, 3/4 size handle, but will cut surprisingly well for it's size.

Lots of folks will tell you the Gransfors Bruks and S.A. Wetterlings are better, and while they do have some performance edge, they also cost 6x as much - which seems silly to me while you're learning what you really want or need out in the brush.
The Cold Steel trade axe is another decent choice at a value price point.
 
i have a small forest axe and i love it you can get them for $120 at lee valley or you could also get a wetterlings for about $65-75 if i am not mistaken both are great the gb is a bit nicer tho
 
Just my thought, but if you are felling trees of any size, a decent bow saw (also called a swede saw) from Home Depot will get it on the ground a lot faster than an axe. At least for me, I'm not an experienced axe man. Then a small GB or Wetterlings axe for limbing.
 
1066vik, I've got a couple of those Collins HB pattern axes in 2-1/4#, and love them. They're too big to be a belt hatchet, but for a camp axe they're my-T-fine. Just the right size to strap on your ATV. I keep 'em razor sharp and out of the dirt, and they're good for falling up to about 10" and limbing too.

Coyote, the problem I've had falling trees with a bowsaw is binding. To avoid it I have to make a shallow face cut, which makes it more likely that the tree will settle on my back cut, and then I'm really screwed. I've got this tree 2/3 loose and my saw is stuck. If you attempt that on big trees, I strongly recommend using wedges also. But what will you knock the wedges in with? Why a 2-1/4# HB axe, of course.

I have found a bow saw useful for cutting dead branches from conifers and into firewood lengths, so I'm not against it. Use what works for ya, I guess.

Parker
 
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I'm still a bit of an amatuer myself when it comes to axes, but here is what I've used.
Scrap_Ax_2_by_angusman219.jpg

Its a camp ax of my own design and make. A work hardened and tempered bit is pinned between the ends of a softer steel 1/8 inch thick steel band. I've used it to cut 6-8 inche trees and logs. Even splits pretty good and stays razor sharp when you're done too. The back end works well as a hammer. Even though I call it a "Scrap Ax" it can really send the chips flying. (( rules violation )) To top it all off, if you want to show off your ax throwing skills for your friends, this ax can even be thrown.
 
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