I need teaching material for period sheaths.

[R.H.Clark]

Can some of you guys recommend some books or DVD's that will give me some pointers on doing rawhide,beads and fringe period type sheaths?

 

[sheathmaker]

Here you go.
http://jmcknives.blademakers.com/

Scroll down under the Tomahawk to link for the DVD.

Paul

 

[R.H.Clark]

Thank you Mr.Long.

 

[Wild Rose]

Eric Myall is the "Williamsburg saddler" has a very good DVD on building 18th Century sheaths. His phone number is 757-564-9659

Crazy Crow - "Plains Indian Knife Sheaths: Materials, Design & Construction"

John Baldwin - Early Knives and Beaded Sheaths of the American Frontier, not a how-to and not cheap, but full of inspiration for those interested

My tutorial on building one style with a rawhide liner- http://knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38872

Finally IMO one should learn the difference between actual period sheaths/reproductions and the modern interpretations that look period, but are known as fantasy pieces (which include many pieces made by well known makers such as Karen Shook, JC, and myself as well as many others).
The term fantasy is not a put down - it is the term used by makers/collectors of the genre to differentiate between actual period examples and "what might have been"......
Both types have their place as viable usable pieces and as collectibles, but there is a difference and for some collectors (inlcuding high end ones) it is a VERY important point, plus it's just good to know and understand the difference.

 

[R.H.Clark]

Thank you Mr.Burrows.Something similar to the ones you have on Tai Goo's site was what I had in mind.My first attempts wouldn't be near as intricate but I do want to learn some of the basic skills.

 

[Wild Rose]

You're welcome RW and to see more of my work check out my site at www.wrtcleather.com - I have from basic to uber fancy examples there.

Another resource for beadwork is http://www.nativetech.org/glasbead/glasbead.html

also there is a middle ground in styling those pieces inspired by existing originals but with changes in materials to produce you're own original:
an example - the first pic is a crica 1820-30's original made from buffalo rawhide with quillwork on a brain tan cuff

A version I made based on the original was made of bark tan leather with beadwork on a brain tan cuff - I matched the shape and carving of the original and then included my own touches such as beadwork instead of quillwork, the tacks, and the fringing both of which I borrowed from another original to produce a unique piece but on based on documented pieces. Like the original mine is also convertible to left or right hand:

 

[Loosearrow]

You're welcome RW and to see more of my work check out my site at www.wrtcleather.com - I have from basic to uber fancy examples there.

Another resource for beadwork is http://www.nativetech.org/glasbead/glasbead.html

also there is a middle ground in styling those pieces inspired by existing originals but with changes in materials to produce you're own original:
an example - the first pic is a crica 1820-30's original made from buffalo rawhide with quillwork on a brain tan cuff

A version I made based on the original was made of bark tan leather with beadwork on a brain tan cuff - I matched the shape and carving of the original and then included my own touches such as beadwork instead of quillwork, the tacks, and the fringing both of which I borrowed from another original to produce a unique piece but on based on documented pieces. Like the original mine is also convertible to left or right hand:

Nice work as usual Chuck. How did you set your tacks? I don't see the shafts bent over.

 

[Wild Rose]

On all of the original tack sheaths I've examined (a couple of hundred at least), the tacks were seldom crimped over - most were trimmed flush with the back and then lightly peened whether they solid brass square shank or the brass head with steel shank type first introduced in the 1870's.

On this one I set one side, trimmed, and peened them. Of course I couldn't do that on the other side so I trimmed and then set them with a spot of hot hide glue - once could use a spot of expoxy or super glue instead.

 

[Loosearrow]

On all of the original tack sheaths I've examined (a couple of hundred at least), the tacks were seldom crimped over - most were trimmed flush with the back and then lightly peened whether they solid brass square shank or the brass head with steel shank type first introduced in the 1870's.

On this one I set one side, trimmed, and peened them. Of course I couldn't do that on the other side so I trimmed and then set them with a spot of hot hide glue - once could use a spot of expoxy or super glue instead.

Thanks for the info. Always learning from you. Appreciate your willingness to share your craft. Do you nail the tack in, then pull it out and replace with a spot of glue on the shank? Regards.

 

[Wild Rose]

Do you nail the tack in, then pull it out and replace with a spot of glue on the shank?

Nope - I made myself a small "awl" using a larger size glover's needle with about 1/4" of the needle protruding from the handle. I use this to mark/prepunch the holes and I only glue when doing a double sided sheath like this one, otherwise I pre-punch, set the tack, clip flush with the back (I use a pair of end nippers that I ground the face flat with no angle) , and then peen lightly using a piece of brass bar as the back up to the head.

Glad to help.........

 

[kid terico]

I have got John Coheas cd and if you never made anything you could after watching it. I have about 20 items made for me by John and there out standing, nothing better. . I have 8 of Chucks so I can compare them side by side.to tell the difference. KT

 

[Loosearrow]

Nope - I made myself a small "awl" using a larger size glover's needle with about 1/4" of the needle protruding from the handle. I use this to mark/prepunch the holes and I only glue when doing a double sided sheath like this one, otherwise I pre-punch, set the tack, clip flush with the back (I use a pair of end nippers that I ground the face flat with no angle) , and then peen lightly using a piece of brass bar as the back up to the head.

Glad to help.........

Thanks Chuck, Regards.