- Joined
- Jan 10, 2001
- Messages
- 2,618
I have bright, inspirational flashes from time to time which can turn out fairly well. When I sit down, analyze, quantify, qualify, determine and decide, I usually wind up lip-deep in doggy doo. With that in mind, the following is a report, and not a recommendation..yet, or even maybe
I had two coats of oil on the new Bura, and was as happy as a Labrador with a new tennis ball. The as-advertised crack sealed to invisibility, and more and more grain was blooming in the wood. DOOM!!! I picked it up after a couple of hours of drying, and there were three new cracks. This will give a Woodchuck heart palpatations, and I've got too many stitches in that area to risk it, so I began to analyze - Near-burl grain, trip from Nepal, dry Reno, 100% local humidity = needs stress relief, quickly. Murphy's soap came to mind first, and then an evil little light began to wink. I'd seen the Fiebing's Hoof Dressing almost visibly soak into a cracked horn handle. It is mineral oil with additives, and mineral oil is an old treatment for tool handles. Saatisal is an oak (no doubt in my mind, now) and I've seen oak tool handles treated and untreated, so on went a heavy coat of Fiebings, after I'd glued all but one crack and wooled off 90% of the first two coats of oil.
First, rouge came off in buckets. I had sanded this handle heavily, first with a fine Scotch Brite pad, and then with 400 and 600 grit, and 0000 wool. The rouge was gone...not. I know this is an oak, because the Fiebing's washed out rouge that had been compacted into the open oak grain, and now (except for the colors) it looks like the sworled open grain of white oak.
The crack I did not glue has almost closed - the glued cracks have disappeared after a light sanding. I'm wondering now, when does a deep, open grain line become a crack, and just not a deep open grain.
This will not lead to a return. This piece of wood will remain on the knife even if I have to dip the whole thing in a bucket of Bondini, and re-carve it. More later...I hope.
I had two coats of oil on the new Bura, and was as happy as a Labrador with a new tennis ball. The as-advertised crack sealed to invisibility, and more and more grain was blooming in the wood. DOOM!!! I picked it up after a couple of hours of drying, and there were three new cracks. This will give a Woodchuck heart palpatations, and I've got too many stitches in that area to risk it, so I began to analyze - Near-burl grain, trip from Nepal, dry Reno, 100% local humidity = needs stress relief, quickly. Murphy's soap came to mind first, and then an evil little light began to wink. I'd seen the Fiebing's Hoof Dressing almost visibly soak into a cracked horn handle. It is mineral oil with additives, and mineral oil is an old treatment for tool handles. Saatisal is an oak (no doubt in my mind, now) and I've seen oak tool handles treated and untreated, so on went a heavy coat of Fiebings, after I'd glued all but one crack and wooled off 90% of the first two coats of oil.
First, rouge came off in buckets. I had sanded this handle heavily, first with a fine Scotch Brite pad, and then with 400 and 600 grit, and 0000 wool. The rouge was gone...not. I know this is an oak, because the Fiebing's washed out rouge that had been compacted into the open oak grain, and now (except for the colors) it looks like the sworled open grain of white oak.
The crack I did not glue has almost closed - the glued cracks have disappeared after a light sanding. I'm wondering now, when does a deep, open grain line become a crack, and just not a deep open grain.
This will not lead to a return. This piece of wood will remain on the knife even if I have to dip the whole thing in a bucket of Bondini, and re-carve it. More later...I hope.