Yeah, test cutting must be done with some skill when using a khuk, as they are differentially heat treated. If you hit out of the sweet spot, you get a dinng in the blade. Even coin cutting could damage a soft part of the blade.
1-Controlled Striking with the primary cutting edge:
Before cutting hard targets, it is best to practice controlled striking (with the hardened area--have to determine that as well) on softer targets, like 2x4s and limbs. You can tell you're ready to move on to harder targets once you can always hit with the hardened area of the khuk (you can tell this by looking at marks on the blade made by cutting wood--they should mostly be in the primary cutting area).
Conveniently, the Center of Percussion -- the 'sweet spot' -- of each HI khuk is the zone that is hardest. It is no accident that this is the primary cutting area of the khuk, and will deliver the most efficient cut.
2-Controlling force and depth of strike:
When you swing the khuk at the target, do not think of striking at the surface of the target--but through it or many inches into it. Try cutting plywood edge-on to master this technique. You can draw a line 3-4 inches down on the side of the plywood, and aim for that depth of cut. This also makes you conscious of blade control--by cutting TO the line, not through it or above it, you learn to stop the khuks downward descent so that it does not exit the target out of control and into one's leg or arm or rocky ground...you also get a feel for the strikes that are too weak or not perpendicular to the target.
3- Ignore the Point (or tip) of the khuk:
When using the khuk for cutting, realize that the tip (meaning the part of the blade that extends past the sweet spot) is really not the cutting area--The point is the secondary cutting area of the khuk. Most folks when swinging a sword or long blade for the first time want to strike with the point. This is not the sweet spot, and delivers an ineffective cut with no mass behind it (and using the softer tip, also a no-no).
Basically, the last few inches of the khuk are there to put mass further out past the sweet spot, which is mass that converts to a more forceful blow. The tip is there to roll the blade through the target without snagging.
When test cutting, ignore the tip of the khuk--act as if the khuk stops right after the hardened area. You will be surprised how well the tip of your khuk will hold up when it it not used as a primary chopping edge.
Edge profile:
HI khuks are maed with different edge geometry, which can mean there are different khuks for different tasks. I would not use a thinly profile blade to cut wood, but it'd do a job on reeds, brambles, grass, uncerbrush (i.e Gelbu special). I would not use a thicker profiled blade to cut lighter targets, bur it would be perfect for chopping lots of wood or harder test targets. The more obtuse the blade geometry, the better the blade will hold up to exreme cutting--conversely, it may not cut as deeply as a thinner model.
Confirm your target:
Know the composition of your target, and ensure that it is not harder than your khuk.
When cutting certain high carbon or spring steels could really chew up a khuk. You can test target hardness by runnng the hardened are of the khuk along the target material, like peeling a carrot or shaving a sliver from a stick. If the khuk cuts or bites into the material, then you pretty well know how things are gonna go. If the surface is resistant to the khuk and the khuk will not bite, then you'd be better off not striking the target. Keep in mind that it is possible to successfully cut small amounts or thinn pieces of material as hard as the khuk by exercising the principlles in 1,2, and 3. Proper technique can make all the difference.
Some metal things I've cut -- 1/8th inch to 1/4 inch thick copper wire, mild steel electric fence wire (single strand), sheet brass and wire, sheet bronze, zinc and copper pennies quarters. Opted not to cut nickles, tho -- pretty thick and hard. Metal Things I expect to cut in the future--thin sheet metal, soft stainless steel as used in table ware, small amounts of iron or mild steel...
Conclusion:
If you practice for a while, master blade control and can use your wrist in conjunction with the swing to 'snap' the blow into the target, You will be ready for the more destructive cutting tests. My bet is that after you practice effective striking for a while, you'll be able to cut at least a single strand of that chain link with your same khuk. and If I'm wrong, hey--it was already dinged up, right
Have fun, and buy a khuk just fer looking at. Scars add character.
Keith
