I screwed up the edge on my EDC, can't sharpen it right to save my life!

C

CZ_Guy

Joined
May 27, 2002
Messages
5
I had a pretty sharp Camilus EDC in 154cm and in cutting something I shouldn't(lets not go there) the edge will barely go through a plastic bag now. I have the Sharpmaker but I am unsure as to the best way of using it. I did use it to get the EDC razor sharp but this thing is real dull and I don't want to make it worse. What do you guys sugget as the best way to use this thing to get my edge back.
Thanks
 
Take it to a knife shop and let them sharpen it. You might have to leave it overnight and it will cost a few bucks, but when you get it back, it will have an edge that you can refine with your sharpmaker. I did this for a knife that I customized and it saved me a lot of labor.

Chris
 
Taking it to a knife shop as suggested is not a bad idea. However, make sure and check to see that they have somebody who knows how to do it properly.
 
I couldn't find any info on their site, but they have a forum here at BF.C:

Camillus

Otherwise just be patient with the medium stones on the Sharpmaker and you can sharpen it. It can be very tedious and time consuming.

Good luck!
 
CZ,
You should post this on the Camillus forum and ask Will Fennell if Camillus will resharpen your knife.
 
Go to lowes and buy a $10 smiths Arkansas stone, and some WD40 if it doesn't come with honing oil. That will reset the bevels much faster, then you can finish on the sharpmaker. Chances are they won't have a soft arkansas which would be best, so it will take a little time. But a hard arkansas stone will cut faster than the croc sticks on the sharpmaker, and even puts a fairl good edge on.
 
Because of the recurved edge of the EDC, a flat stone will not work. You can use the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker and use the corners of the stones to sharpen the EDC. I have also used a Gatco Tri-Seps pocket sharpener to sharpen my EDC and Paragee by using the corners as well.
 
Thanks for the replies so far. If I do decide to use the 204 would I start with the 30' or 40' degree bevel in this case?
 
I'd go with the 40 degree angle for a 154CM EDC. I brought mine to 30 degrees at one point, and had some chipping problems.
 
I had problems sharpening my edc & Will Fennell of Camillus had me ship mine back to them, they sharpened it back to factory sharpness.

Great guy to work with & fantastic customer service !!!
 
Nothing gets more responses than these 2 questions, "What knife should I buy?", and "How do I sharpen/fix a dull knife?"

These two questions seem to elicit more opinions than any other,(I wonder why?);)

Anyway for what it's worth here's my two cents worth, get a set AG Russells Crock sticks with diamond rods and follow the directions.

Learning to freehand sharpen is one of the most satisfying skills a knife knut can learn, it's also the most discouraging.

Pick up some stones, and practice, practice, practice.

Search the archives there is plenty of advice on the subject, and some of it is amazingly good, and some, down right funny.


Edited for spelling, and punctuation.
 
i don't think the edc has a 20 degree angle on each side, i think it's much thicker then that, when i first sharpened the knife on a sharpmaker it took me forever to get sharp
 
While I use my Sharpmaker for edge maintenance, I also keep an A.G.Russell field sharpener handy. I recently used the diamond rods to do a great job on my Greco Raptor, a very hard-to-sharpen, thick hawksbill blade. The A.G. sharpener is like a pocket-sized Sharpmaker for the tough jobs.

But if you realllly messed up that edge, give Camillus a shot at it !!
 
CZ, the Sharpmaker is an excellent example of the V sharpener but understand that the V sharpener is good for maintenance and not so good for regrinding a bevel. Regrinding the bevel is what you need to do. Don't send it out for sharpening. Learn to do it yourself. My usual advice is for an individual to buy one of the inexpensive Lansky clamping systems. It maintains the same angle throughout the sharpening process and, therefore, will get a knife as sharp as it can be. You need to select one of the preset angles and then take the time to grind the bevels to that angle with the coarse stone. You know you're there when a light swipe on either side of the edge will turn a burr over to the other side. When that's finished, it's a quick and easy matter to go down through the grits until you have the edge you want. There certainly are quicker and easier ways to grind a bevel but at least this is a fairly foolproof one and will get you on your way to being a sharpening expert. Take care.
 
Here's my 2 cents worth, it's worked well for me:

Having been sharpening my own blades for the last 20 years I've come to notice a few things in regards to what you use to sharpen a knife. Diamond hones remove massive amounts of steel and sharpen a blade fast but even with the finest hone you will still need to finish your blade on a strop or ceramic hone to smooth out the edge. Always sharpen at the desired angle,(between 17-24 degrees, depending on the thickness of the blade) till you get a wire edge on one side, (the best way to feel for this is to slide your thumbnail from the spine side, or back of the blade towards the edge) when you encounter a wire edge it will feel like a little lip has formed where the wire edge has rolled over. Next sharpen the opposite side till you achieve the same result. Done on a Fine Diamond Hone, finish off by repeating the process using lighter pressure on each subsequent stroke and the wire edge will become smaller. When the wire edge is barely noticeable with your fingernail. Finish with a leather strop and stropping compound by applying a reasonable amount of force and dragging the blade backwards on the leather at a slightly less angle than you sharpened,(the leather will actually curl around the edge of the blade and wear off the wire edge) after a few strokes on the leather on both side you should have a finished edge. When the edge of the sharpened blade is rested on the smooth part of your thumbnail it will dig in, (bite into the nail with no additional pressure), Your knife should now be shaving sharp.

Diamonds are more aggressive and faster than wet stones or oilstones but will accomplish the same results with a smoother more polished edge, and depending on the grit of the stone may take a lot longer. The key either way is repetition, the more you perform the same task your brain starts memorizing the pathways through your body needed to accomplish this task. Eventually holding an angle, smoothness of stroke, all become second nature, and the task becomes easier. That’s why it always looks easier when someone else whose good at it does it.

My way is not the only way but it works for me, if you feel confident enough to attempt your own blades, start on a cheaper knife that your not afraid of ruining, and remember it’s easier to sharpen a knife that’s not dull, than to sharpen one that is. So don’t wait till your knife won’t even cut butter before you dress up that edge. LOL

PS as for my preference I prefer a diamond hone just because I think it's quicker, and more versatile I can accomplish the same thing with one hone by just varying pressure to the blade as I sharpen.


:)
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