I searched, I swear! Beginners Sharpening kit, help?

J

JasonJ

Joined
Oct 28, 2014
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109
I read a few other people's threads on a similar topic, but everyone seems to have specifics that set them apart in what they want.

I want/need a way to sharpen knives ranging from 1.5" up to 5.5", scandi grinds, convex edges, hollow grinds, full flats...

I was looking at something with angle guides... I'm new to sharpening beyond using ceramic v-notch hones and some small, basic stones that I always seem to make blades duller with. I typically will only have to maintain already sharp blades, some scary, shaving sharp. But I have a few dull blades as well that can cut skin but perhaps not paper..

I have looked at the Spyderco SharpMaker, Gatco EdgeMate, Smith's 3 in 1, Smiths tri-stone... I considered just making some freehand bits from wet or dry sandpaper in 600/800/1200-2000 grit and then making a strop from old leather straps and some green and white compound.

I'm not on a tight budget per se, but would prefer to spend about $50-60... less is better if the handmade kit is the way to go, only thing with that is there is no guide for my angles, and I'm still iffy on those.

So, is there a ready to go system or kit to buy, or should I just go the sandpaper/strop way and learn to do it freehand, like people have been doing for 2 million years? Thanks all!
 
At this point, considering your budget my recommendation is to take your time and save some money while researching what is available via online forums, such as this, and Youtube videos on systems and sharpening.
On Youtube use "sharpening" "Sharpening systems", etc. and you will get dozens of videos.

I suggest starting with a few sheets of wet/dry sand paper and a hard smooth base is a good start. The grits you mention are a fine start...perhaps add 300, 400 or so for those that need more attention. Definitely a strop, preferably home made...you can get a niece piece of wood at Home Depot, etc. 3/8 thick...cut it to the width of the leather and glue a piece to each side. Mine is 3" wide and 10" long...but I bought a piece of vegetable tanned leather online...a 12x12 inch piece of leather and cut to the size I wanted.

Get a piece of drawer liner material at Wally World for a few bucks...I use the solid rubber type material. I cut it to the size of the sand paper...I buy it at the local auto parts shop...much better selection and I prefer the size...and lay it on the rubber mat...perfect for a convex edge.

Place the sand paper on a solid surface and you have a great way to sharpen any knife you own.

I also have the Smiths tri hone...it is reasonably priced and works great for the cost. I use mine primarily for my larger hunting/bushcraft knives and kitchen knives. Then strop them to finish the process.

The above will allow you to learn how to freehand sharpen, hold the angle steady, what angles work best, etc.
This will also help you as you think about how you want to "upgrade".

I don't suggest spending any money for awhile. Until you know what you want don't buy anything as the next step can be expensive...and is hehehe.

I like and use the Lansky system. I have the Arkansas stone, diamond hones and ceramic hones...Probably spend a decent bit over $150.00 all told but I can put a great edge on my knives that fit the system. I bought this system...their starter system...because I could afford it and would not be out a lot of money if I did not like it. Compared to the Edge Pro and Wicked Edge it is a lot less money. I might really prefer the EP or WE but I don't have the money to buy either one then or now so I don't worry about it.

I'd love to own to really nice free hand stones but again...not enough loose money to drop on them so again I don't worry about it.

My Lansky System, Smiths' Tri Stone and home made strop take care of every knife I own. I use the Lansky hones free hand as well...there is no reason why not and they work great, though a bit small, for and hand held hone. I use them for my mid size kukri...my favorite "chopper". I also have a hand held diamond sharpener...three different diamond sheets held magnetically...I bought it yesterday for $30.00 at Gander Mtn and it replaces a worn out diamond hand held that I use for my machetes, axe and hatchets.

That's about it for me...just do your research and ask questions and you'll do alright.
Keep us informed.
 
Thanks for the tips Kai.. that is all very good info to have.

You made me think, perhaps I should just start with the cheap/free option and make my own wet/dry sandpaper based sharpening blocks, make a strop or two and see where I get with that first.
 
First, here is the scoop on the guided systems -

Lansky: I used to use this quite a bit, and got very sharp edges from it. However, the angle settings are quite obtuse (17-30 degrees per side, with some variation depending on blade width), and with thinner blades, such as on most pocket knives, the rod will not clear the adjustment knob in the lowest angle slot. At these angles, you will eventually work your way up into thicker blade material and need some other way to reprofile the edge.

Sharpmaker: This is certainly a great system for what it does, but it has a similar problem as the Lansky. It is built on a 15 degree bevel with a 20 degree microbevel, and the instructions will tell you that you will occasionally need to use the medium grit rods in the 15* slots to "back bevel" the blade. Depending on blade steel, or factory edge angle, this can take a very long time, even if you buy the diamond rods, which almost double the cost of the set.

DMT Aligner: I have one of these, and I like all the different angle adjustments, but it's really designed for blades 1" wide or more. Even with the clip blade on my Buck 301 clamped as far out as I could get it, the bottom jaw would drag on the stone at anything below 25 or 30*

A lot of people like Work Sharp. If you have blades 1.5" long, then, assuming they are probably about 1/3" wide or so, the belt could very quickly make them into tiny little steel toothpicks.

I have no experience with Wicked Edge or Edge Pro. None of the above will handle Scandis or convex, either.

I started freehand sharpening with wet/dry sandpaper on 1/4" plate glass because I bought a Mora, and while I didn't want to shell out for a bench stone, I could afford a piece of glass and a couple packs of sandpaper. It works very well, and there are some on here who get exceptional results with it. Plus, it will teach you good technique, because you can't press too hard. You'll need some SiC paper anyway, because it will be the very best thing for convex sharpening on top of drawer liner, leather, a mouse pad, etc.

With that said, you will quickly surpass the cost of a nice bench stone buying sandpaper, and the paper wears out quickly and needs to be changed often, which takes time. But, you can get started with that, and then, if you buy a nice waterstone at some point, you'll already have the plate glass to lap it on.

If you have access to a chop saw, you can cut yourself some angle guide wedges. I made the ones below from a 1x3 PVC board. They really help in keeping a consistent angle. Fred Rowe, a member here, sells some that are similar.

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Good luck!
 
I recently bought a 4 sided diamond stone set for $12 at a local "Harbor Freight" store. I've seen them on Amazon for about the same price. 200, 300, 400, 600 grit stones @ 2"x6". I practiced angles with very cheap knives at first. But after a few attempts and dulling a few I got the hang of it. Now I have put a decent edge on several of my better knives.
I can get them to shave "most" hairs on a single pass across my arm. With that said I have a cart full of stuff at Amazon I'm researching. I think with the DMT fine and extra fine along with strop making leather and compound I will be set to polish a truly shaving sharp edge in little time at all.
My Amazon cart is under $100 total and I could get it under $50 but I chose the DMT diamond extra fine stone because my wife wants me to work on her ceramic kitchen knives.
Anyways, this info is all my research and opinion NOT based off hands on experience. Hopefully I'm on the right track though.
 
I haven't used the HF diamond stones, but I'm familiar with them. My biggest concern at that price point would be whether the substrate was even remotely flat. They might not be that bad in the lower grits for stock removal, but they'll probably wear out pretty quickly.
 
Will a 1000/6000 combination stone like this be enough for a beginner to get shaving sharp? Trying to follow Murray Carter's method.
 
Yes, 1000 (JP grit) is enugh for "shaving sharp", I recommend also heaving 220-400 grit stone for some basic work.
 
Eytan (Ethan) K said:
Yes, 1000 (JP grit) is enugh for "shaving sharp", I recommend also heaving 220-400 grit stone for some basic work.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I have the King 250/1000 stone, and I have found that the 1000x puts an excellent working edge on a blade. It is definitely sharp enough to shave and slice newsprint, but still has enough tooth for kitchen and outdoor tasks. The 250 cuts pretty quickly and helps with reprofiling and with setting an edge before polishing.
 
I'm putting together some wetordry sandpaper sharpening blocks, in 320, 400, 600, 1000, and 2000 grit along with two leather strops of as of yet undetermined compound.

I think I would agree, 1000 grit should definitely give a shaving sharp edge. I'll be finishing assembly tomorrow or sunday I think; so i'll let everyone know how it goes.

Big Bear, I hadn't thought of Harbor Freight, good catch.. they may have something basic to check into. I've had excellent luck with their stuff before, considering the quality and price.
 
JasonJ said:
I read a few other people's threads on a similar topic, but everyone seems to have specifics that set them apart in what they want.

I want/need a way to sharpen knives ranging from 1.5" up to 5.5", scandi grinds, convex edges, hollow grinds, full flats...

I was looking at something with angle guides... I'm new to sharpening beyond using ceramic v-notch hones and some small, basic stones that I always seem to make blades duller with. I typically will only have to maintain already sharp blades, some scary, shaving sharp. But I have a few dull blades as well that can cut skin but perhaps not paper..

I have looked at the Spyderco SharpMaker, Gatco EdgeMate, Smith's 3 in 1, Smiths tri-stone... I considered just making some freehand bits from wet or dry sandpaper in 600/800/1200-2000 grit and then making a strop from old leather straps and some green and white compound.

I'm not on a tight budget per se, but would prefer to spend about $50-60... less is better if the handmade kit is the way to go, only thing with that is there is no guide for my angles, and I'm still iffy on those.

So, is there a ready to go system or kit to buy, or should I just go the sandpaper/strop way and learn to do it freehand, like people have been doing for 2 million years? Thanks all!
Click to expand...

As another option you might take a look at is the block I make, The Washboard - more info available through the link under my signature below. The site has some good info that describes the unit in detail, and I recently updated the user videos. The first video not only describes how to get the most from the block, but is intended to help get better results from most any freehand method (freehand is definitely the way to go), especially using wet/dry. Even if sticking with some scratch-made blocks and not interested in a Washboard, you might find that first vid well worth watching.

Ultimately its your technique that matters most, the specific tools come down to preference, convenience, portability etc etc.

Good Luck!
Martin
 
Find a cheap knife or crappy kitchen knife and learn to sharpen free hand. Pay attention to how the edge feels on the abrasive, when you've hit a true angle the knife is at it will glide smoothly over it with minimal dragging. If you don't own any ultra hard steels (s30v etc) a combination India stone and a white hard arkansas with a strop to finish will work perfectly. Whole setup can cost $40 and can be bought on Amazon.
 
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I am about as new as they come to sharpening, I got a worksharp ken onion...my kitchen knives are now razor sharp and I also put a semi mirror edge on one of my zt's
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