I thought that I paid attention.

[Judcargile]

I tested 2 candidates in an Apollo gas forge temp controlled. Both coated in Cordursal 1100. ( You have never seen more pitiful blade like things)

I ended up trusting the manual valve settings from the tuning runs and did not adjust my regulator only to get me near tune, but, horribly off!!!! Temp climb became pathetic and I am adjusting on the feild end; I realized my oversight,, but, too late.

I contemplated another run, but, I could not say that I could properly apply that anti scale laquer. I should have done better research. I found as US made non solvent based compound that seems much friendlier and better temp range. I did have a punchlist at this point, to include tuning the PID. I can run a bypass on the controller and keep my valve open, I can toggle my ball valve by hand for 5 minute soak time, not a huge problem, If the spare solenoid gets installed, that is the plan.

I had been under the impression that I had my procedure figured out. Since I have a bit of time, I decided to dive deeply in HT of AEBL.

I have seen smiths using AEBL preheat around 1560, quench that steel and say this is equalizing the steel, reapply anti scale compound, return to forge @ 1975 for 5 min and quench a second time.

I have been thinking that I bring my forge to a stable 1560.
@ stable 1560, I deposit the steel and hold 1560 for 15 minutes.
After 15 mins @ 1560, ramp to 1975 and hold for 5 minutes.
Remove to aluminum plate and blast air until under 1000 F


can I just put the clamped plates and blade into H20 and then into LN2? Do you really quench 2 times?!?!?!?

 

[Seedy Lot]

I would just go straight to austenitizing.

I use to do a prequench with AEBL, not sure if it actually made much of a difference, a little more hardness but not enough of a change for the extra effort.

After my blanks sit in the clamped plates for about a minute I do put clamped plates in a five gallon bucket of cold water then after another minute or so I take the cold blanks and put them into cryo.

Someone suggested putting plates into cold water a while ago to help combat AEBL warp so figured I would try it. Not sure if I see a difference in warp but I do see less boil off of ln2 with a cold blank instead of a warm one.

 

[Sando]

I dunno anything about doing stainless in a forge. No comment there. But here's some notes on my experience with AEB-L:

I never could get any anti-scale compounds to work on stainless. Stick with foil.
A pre-quench is not necessary. I stopped using it as I saw no observable advantage. Just more chances to go wrong.
I don't find preheat, stabilize and ramp to full heat of any real value either (I only do knife thickness stuff).
Water and LN? I've done with and without water. Whatever you like.

Heat to 1975, put in the steel, hold 15 minutes, squeeze in plates for 10 minutes, stick in the LN for 1/2 hour. Easy Peezy.

After you get the simple process down, you can add those other steps and see if you like it.

PS - practice with coupons of steel and snap them.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I created the PID controlled two-stage burner for forge HT.
Here is a great thread on it. Sadly, the last server changes by Bladeforums wiped out all the charts and diagrams. I will have to search for them or re-draft them.

PID Controlled Forge/Heat Treat oven plans & WIP

So after going through the stickys a couple weeks ago and finding all of the amazing plans for different PID controlled forges, tempering ovens, salt pot etc, I've switched gears fully to creating a really high-functioning PID controlled forge & heat treating oven. First off, thanks to other...

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