I want a 110 in W2!

Or maybe another issue with 440C? Or replacement 440C blades for the pre-1981 knives that came with 440C?
(My 2 dot could stand a new blade. A previous owner busted the tip. :( )
 
440C would also be nice in the custom shop. I picked up a 440c 110 build out at the factory sale. I know that could be done too.

I enjoy the latest and greatest steels as much as the next guy but there are some really great steels that have been used for generations that I would like to see. O1 for instance.
 
Jeff O said:
440C would also be nice in the custom shop. I picked up a 440c 110 build out at the factory sale. I know that could be done too.

I enjoy the latest and greatest steels as much as the next guy but there are some really great steels that have been used for generations that I would like to see. O1 for instance.
Click to expand...

This one is 440C.

Beautiful knife, but you have to hurry to get one, I think. Only a couple hundred or so made.

DQMuHBR.jpg
 
It's a tool steel. Thus, it would register low in corrosion resistance. It has 1-1.5% C, v and W are it's stronger suits at .15-.3%. Thus, it can
be taken to 62 RC, perhaps higher. Which would give it good edge retention. Perhaps something like a Sandvick steel when heated to 61rc.
Not inflating it's abilities. DM
 
Last edited:
David Martin said:
It's a tool steel. Thus, it would register low in corrosion resistance. It has 1-1.5% C, v and W are it's stronger suits at .15-.3%. Thus, it can
be taken to 62 RC, perhaps higher. Which would give it good edge retention. Perhaps something like a Sandvick steel when heated to 61rc.
Not inflating it's abilities. DM
Click to expand...

Well, that's as clear as a mud hole?
 
Humm, it has good carbon, vanadium and tungsten in it's mix. So, good edge retention. Then with the ability to heat it to high hardness without
it becoming brittle, spells good toughness and not difficult to sharpen. My last try. DM
 
David Martin said:
Humm, it has good carbon, vanadium and tungsten in it's mix. So, good edge retention. Then with the ability to heat it to high hardness without
it becoming brittle, spells good toughness and not difficult to sharpen. My last try. DM
Click to expand...

Thanks Dm, that makes more sense to me. You know how us farm boys are if you can't bend it or break it and it can be sharpened its good steel...Ha!Ha!
 
Jeff O said:
Files are often made of W2 if that helps with perspective.
Click to expand...

Thank You, Jeff!! That gave me a good idea what y'all were talkin about...I carry 3 knives with me at all times, if I'm hunting, I may have 5 or 6, depending on whether I have my pack with me or not. I use a Sch**de Shar* Fin*er, 119, 110 when processing game. I collect everything else purdy much on if I like it or not...I've sharpened a lot of different types of steel if one method doesn't work, I try another and if the blade doesn't stay sharp, I can it...

I'm learning about the different types of steel thru you guy's and it's interesting. So bare with me when I ask dumb questions about the different types of steel...Besides that, I can use that excuse to the wife why I need to buy more knives!! Good Plan Guy's!!

Don
 
Last edited:
No worries, no dumb question about steel. I'm with some of the other guys here about the charts. Charts might give you some idea of what to expect but I find that a steels intended purpose in the real world will likely tell you more about how it will likely preform in a blade. Bearings, springs, files, etc.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top