I want to start making sheaths

Joined
Jan 16, 2005
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specifically kydex.

i bought a gerber guardian back-up and was thoroughly dissapointed with the sheath, i thought to myself a complete retard could make a better sheath even me :que lightbulb in brain:

the more i thought about it the more appealing the thought became. i have always like working with my hands.

the only problems are that i live in an army barracks and thus have no power tools and i have no idea what im doing. where could i buy and what supplies would i need in order to start the process of making my own sheaths.:confused:

thank for any help anybody can render me:thumbup:
 
Try doing what I just did...Google "how to make a kydex sheath" and you'll find at least one full page of goodies.
 
specifically kydex.

i bought a gerber guardian back-up and was thoroughly dissapointed with the sheath, i thought to myself a complete retard could make a better sheath even me :que lightbulb in brain:

the more i thought about it the more appealing the thought became. i have always like working with my hands.

the only problems are that i live in an army barracks and thus have no power tools and i have no idea what im doing. where could i buy and what supplies would i need in order to start the process of making my own sheaths.:confused:

thank for any help anybody can render me:thumbup:

I ran into the same problem that you did; a nice knife and lousy sheath!
Bare bones leather working? A new cheap razor box cutter knife, a wooden work top to cut and nail into, a small package of brass finishing nails and a small tack hammer, a common kitchen fork, some heavy duty sewing thread such as carpet thread, needles, and some leather. All your work can be done setting the wooden work top on a stool between your legs while you sit on your bunk.

Plan out your sheath on paper, leaving room for the stitching and planing for the carry system you want. If you're going to have attached loops on the back of the sheath you'll want to sew them on before you put the front and back together.

Cut your leather pieces with the razor box cutter. Use a pencil to scribe a line around the leather for stitching. Slightly dampen the leather and use the fork to imprint spacing holes into the leather for the stitching. Put the pieces together and use the brass nails (do NOT use steel nails as they will blacken the leather,) to punch holes for the stitching. Remember to attach the belt loops and tie down before assembling the front and back!! Mark and punch the holes for that just as for the main assembly.

Nail all around the sheath being sure to go through all the leather an into the board. Being that the Guardian is a double edged blade it would be wise to add a spline all around the sheath so the edge doesn't cut the stitching.

Remove the nails, double the sewing thread (or use leather sewing cord if you can get it,) and begin sewing in the SECOND hole, coming back to the first and then re-entering the second to give extra strength with the back stich, then continue sewing from front, back, front, back, etc... When you reach the opposite end, give the first two holes a double stitch then come BACK with your thread from the opposite sides of each hole, so the entire sheath has all the holes with a double lacing.

When you're finished with the stitching, sand down the edges of the leather and give them a good helping of boot polish, really rubbing the stuff into the leather to seal it, then give the entire sheath a coat of wax too.

Done this way, you should have a good, dependable sheath for the Guardian in less than 3-4 hours. Here are a couple of other ideas for attachments;
instead of belt loops sewn onto the sheath use contact cement to glue on hook-side Velcro onto the back of the sheath. Then use another piece of leather with the loop-side glued onto it with your belt loops. You can make two or three different ones; horizontal carry, vertical carry, boot strap carry, etc. You put the mount where you want to carry, then just slap the sheath onto the mount at any angle that is comfortable for you. If you use heavy duty Velcro, this makes a very dependable, adjustable carry system similar to the attachment system of the old original Gerber Guardian.

Stitchawl
 
Pick up a used toaster oven thing at a goodwill store, should be about 5-10 bucks. Buy one of the blue sleeping mats from the sporting goods section at walmart, another 6-8 bucks. You'll need a drill, bit, and rivets. Check knifekits.com for the rivets and setter.

You heat up the kydex, fold it over your knife, press it between two layers of the blue foam, wait for it to cool and finish it. You drill the holes for the rivets and set those. If you need to adjust anything you can use a heat gun or even one of the torch type cig lighters to heat up the Kydex.

Look for Mike Sastre's video on how to make your own kydex stuff. It really isn't rocket science and with a little work you can make some very functional decent looking stuff.

Another option is to search around on the forums here. There are some guys here that do amazing stuff with Kydex. Since your in the barracks it might be easier to buy a sheath than to buy all of the stuff to make your own.

SDS
 
thanks for all the advice. i do not want to purchase one tho i want to make one. its an extension of knifemaking which i do not currently have the resources to do. i have been interested in making sheaths for years now i just recently received the push.

anyone else got any ideas or comments. thanks again for those who have post. espeacially stitchcrawl. thats an excellent idea for a leather heath i might try that for another knife i have.
 
Heat the Kydex to about 300-325 depending on what thickness you get. I would suggest you start with the .060 thick kydex and work your way up, as the thicker stuff can be a bit odd to work with right out the gate. I agree with SDS...get your supplies he said. And you can also use a hair dryer to make small adjustments in place of a heat gun.

Just make sure of one thing, ALWAYS WATCH YOUR KYDEX!!! Dont burn it. :)
 
razorsdescent,

If you want a "blueprint for success" at kydex sheath making, my DVD set & workbook will give you good information for outputting a quality product from the start. You can find reviews of around here, as well as other spots on the net. You can get it from TRS, or better yet, from my site. http://rivercitysheaths.com/dvd.html
 
I ran into the same problem that you did; a nice knife and lousy sheath!
Bare bones leather working? A new cheap razor box cutter knife, a wooden work top to cut and nail into, a small package of brass finishing nails and a small tack hammer, a common kitchen fork, some heavy duty sewing thread such as carpet thread, needles, and some leather. All your work can be done setting the wooden work top on a stool between your legs while you sit on your bunk.

Plan out your sheath on paper, leaving room for the stitching and planing for the carry system you want. If you're going to have attached loops on the back of the sheath you'll want to sew them on before you put the front and back together.

Cut your leather pieces with the razor box cutter. Use a pencil to scribe a line around the leather for stitching. Slightly dampen the leather and use the fork to imprint spacing holes into the leather for the stitching. Put the pieces together and use the brass nails (do NOT use steel nails as they will blacken the leather,) to punch holes for the stitching. Remember to attach the belt loops and tie down before assembling the front and back!! Mark and punch the holes for that just as for the main assembly.

Nail all around the sheath being sure to go through all the leather an into the board. Being that the Guardian is a double edged blade it would be wise to add a spline all around the sheath so the edge doesn't cut the stitching.

Remove the nails, double the sewing thread (or use leather sewing cord if you can get it,) and begin sewing in the SECOND hole, coming back to the first and then re-entering the second to give extra strength with the back stich, then continue sewing from front, back, front, back, etc... When you reach the opposite end, give the first two holes a double stitch then come BACK with your thread from the opposite sides of each hole, so the entire sheath has all the holes with a double lacing.

When you're finished with the stitching, sand down the edges of the leather and give them a good helping of boot polish, really rubbing the stuff into the leather to seal it, then give the entire sheath a coat of wax too.

Done this way, you should have a good, dependable sheath for the Guardian in less than 3-4 hours. Here are a couple of other ideas for attachments;
instead of belt loops sewn onto the sheath use contact cement to glue on hook-side Velcro onto the back of the sheath. Then use another piece of leather with the loop-side glued onto it with your belt loops. You can make two or three different ones; horizontal carry, vertical carry, boot strap carry, etc. You put the mount where you want to carry, then just slap the sheath onto the mount at any angle that is comfortable for you. If you use heavy duty Velcro, this makes a very dependable, adjustable carry system similar to the attachment system of the old original Gerber Guardian.

Stitchawl

Sorry to hijack, but this was such a good description of basic leather sheathmaking, I'm left with a question you didn't seem to address. What kind of leather to buy and where to buy it from. Your description is the first I've seen that makes it seem I may be able to try my hand at this. Thanks
 
Sorry to hijack, but this was such a good description of basic leather sheathmaking, I'm left with a question you didn't seem to address. What kind of leather to buy and where to buy it from. Your description is the first I've seen that makes it seem I may be able to try my hand at this. Thanks

Most fixed blade sheaths that are custom made are made from tooling leather that is between 8oz-12oz in thickness and folder sheaths usually between 6oz.-9oz. You do want to use vegetable tanned leather though, as chrome tanned or oil tanned leather often has chemicals in it that can be harmful to your knives. :eek:

For the person who isn't going to be going into production for sales, probably the easiest way to get leather is on-line. A couple of places sell 1-foot squares of tooling leather (i.e. vegetable tanned leather) which is the kind you will want to use for simple sheath making. A single square will make 2-3 folder sheaths or one fixed blade sheath. Tandy is a good company. Another even better source is "Jantz Supply" :thumbup: http://jantzsupply.com/cartease/item-detail.cfm?ID=AG512 To my mind, Jantz's leather is much better quality than Tandy's in these one-foot square pieces. (Jantz also sells 12"x24" pieces) If you want larger quantity, then buying a shoulder or side from Tandy might be more economical.

I happen to like the squares that Jantz sells as they are just the right size and weight for making the occasional small leather project. If you plan your pattern well, and lay it out on the leather, you can minimize waste, and one square will turn out a very nice fixed blade sheath with all the trimmings. There will be more than enough leather for the front, back, spline, belt loops, decoration, etc., as long as your blade isn't more than 7"-8" long.

If you're going to order from Jantz or Tandy, then you might as well get some good waxed sewing cordage while you're at it, and some harness needles too. These are blunt nosed needles that make sewing leather much easier than needles with a sharp point. Get a good leather stitchawl while you're at it! That too will speed up the process. There is a great tutorial on sheath making in the sheath forum that can help a lot. Just don't be put off by the need to make your sheath look like it came from a professional saddle maker. It's your sheath. Personalize it with mistakes! :p


Stitchawl
 
Thanks, Stitchawl, that's some of the best most practical info I've seen on sheathmaking. I may just try my hand at it. Please email me at balislinger(at)gmail.com so I can stop hijacking this thread. Look forward to continuing the conversation. -G
 
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