I was drawing again...

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May 6, 2009
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I can't sleep for some reason so I started doodling and this is what I came up with.



I'm fully aware it would be heavy and the beard is more fantasy than anything els but the more I look at this the more I want to get it forged out. I may have to do just that once the holidays are over and I have money again.

Any thoughts? Good or bad I'm all ears.
 
If the beard was shortened about 3/4 of a inch it would be much more functional while still looking like total badness!
 
If I do I will the problem is I just found out Steve Liley (might have spelled that wrong) retiered so now I'm not sure who to talk to to get it forged. Any suggestions?
 
If you made the eye an inch deeper it would have a much more solid connection between the haft and the head.
 
If you made the eye an inch deeper it would have a much more solid connection between the haft and the head.

My thoughts also. But I'd add much more than 1". Check out a regular double bit ax. The eye is 3-4" deep. This allows the wood to take the torsional forces of thousands of strikes without breaking. The wood at the top of the rear of the haft, on your design would be prone to denting and breaking with strikes to the lower half of the edge. During a prolonged battle there would be a greater chance of loosing the head (of both the ax and the wielder).
 
I re drew it a little larger, with some more meat behind the beard and with about an inch added to the eye. I didn't want to add much more because of the weight and I'd really like to use tomahawk handles with this thing. Oh and it's drawn to actual size the sharpie is there for scale.


 
The heel will not hold up to anything. You have to support that heel a little.
If the battle axe needs a hook for ripping make it in the poll.
 
I've thought about taking a cheap no-name broadaxe (with a 10+" bit) and cutting it in half perpendicular to the eye and trimming them down to a matched pair of bearded fighting axes similar to that.
 
I agree with Garry... love the profile but the shallow heel will lead to broken handles time and again if used hard.

Making the throat of the eye more of a symetrical "M" shaped will cure this and not alter the aesthetic much.

What construction method are you thinking for this?
Viking style forge welded fold? Forge welded cutting edge to a mild steel body? Or total forged tool steel with a milled and drifted eye?

Would volunteer to build this one for you at no charge just for the fun of it but am pretty back ordered at the moment and in the process of expanding the forge... if you haven't had it made by February drop me a line and I should have a little more time for "fun stuff" like this.
 
Atavist thanks so much for the offer and I'll deffinatly contact you if I havent had it made but I wouldn't feel right not paying you so I'm sure we could work something out. I would prefer it be forged out of solid tool steel, I got a hawk made by coal creek forge and that's how he made and it's a beast. Could you show me what you mean by the M shaped throat?
Thanks again
 
I've thought about taking a cheap no-name broadaxe (with a 10+" bit) and cutting it in half perpendicular to the eye and trimming them down to a matched pair of bearded fighting axes similar to that.

Cutting up double bits is all the rage among another group of axe lovers I know. I ain't going there. But I understand why they do it. It's a way to make money out of cheap no-name axes. The more 'Klingon' looking you make them the better they sell it seems. You gotta sell to your market. And a big chunk of the current market is for axes that look cool rather than working axes.
 
A better way to say it is actually probably symmetrical "v" ... like in your first drawing. .. where the front and back of the throat cross the haft at the same level so as not to induce asymmetrical tortion pressures on the haft.

... if that makes any sense.
 
6yKcSob.jpg
 
Oooh ok I get it I'll re draw it when I have a minute I'm stoked about all the help you guys are offering thanks!
 
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