I was just gifted my first Case, a 1977 Case 6265 SAB from a family member. At least, from my research that's what it is. My question is what can I do to do a little maintenance to it? The blades are rather stiff opening and closing and has discoloration on them. The inside looks a little corroded also. I don't necessarily want a museum piece, but want it a little cleaner and make sure it lasts another 50 years. What cleaners, lubricants, etc should I use? I only have items for firearms (Ballistol & Wilson Combat oil). Thanks for your help.
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I was gifted Case XX 6265
- Thread starter mels95yj
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Hi, and congrats on that gift- I hope you post some pictures soon.
Oiling the joints is a great idea, and I find that Victorinox lube is a great product that is also food safe. I also recommend mineral oil, though I don't personally like the lower viscosity compared to the Victorinox.
You can also run a tooth pick around and see what junk you can pull out. Cotton swabs with oil on them are great for cleaning out blade wells if the blade well is large enough. Patina on a blade isn't a bad thing, if you ask me. If it's carbon steel that patina will serve to protect the blade from other worse forms of oxidation.
If you want to polish it, Flitz is good... or so I'm told.
A good traditional slip joint pocket knife doesn't require much maintenance though. You can tinker with them if you want, but in general lubrication and sharpening are the two duties you'll perform.
Oiling the joints is a great idea, and I find that Victorinox lube is a great product that is also food safe. I also recommend mineral oil, though I don't personally like the lower viscosity compared to the Victorinox.
You can also run a tooth pick around and see what junk you can pull out. Cotton swabs with oil on them are great for cleaning out blade wells if the blade well is large enough. Patina on a blade isn't a bad thing, if you ask me. If it's carbon steel that patina will serve to protect the blade from other worse forms of oxidation.
If you want to polish it, Flitz is good... or so I'm told.
A good traditional slip joint pocket knife doesn't require much maintenance though. You can tinker with them if you want, but in general lubrication and sharpening are the two duties you'll perform.
afishhunter
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Most will say "Use a food grade Mineral Oil to lube ..." (found in the laxative section of the grocer or pharmacy)
Over the 60 or 61 years I've carried a knife, I've used 3 in One, new and used 10W30, new and used ATF, oilve oil, WD-40, Hoppy's Gun Oil, bacon grease ...
Lube the joints, and wipe off the excess.
"Discoloration" ... are the blades CV/Carbon Steel or Tru Sharp/Stanless Steel?
If CV/Carbon steel the discoloration is patina. Patina is a good thing. It is non-toxic, and helps prevent the blade from rusting.
You can remove it with somethig like Never Dull, but it will return if you use the knife. Personally, I'd just leave it and let it develope and change over time.
The corrosion inside ... brass, Nickle Sliver, or steel liners?
Brass and nickle silver liners and bolsters can be cleaned with Real Lemon lemon juice (or lime juice, or catsup)
Note: if you soak the knife in lemon or lime juice and the blades are carbon steel, you will get a patina on the blades.
You could also open the blades and clean the inides with oily 0000 steel wool or a scotchbrite pad.
If there is more than one blade on a spring, open one fully then the other fully, to lessen the chance of breaking the backspring.
Over the 60 or 61 years I've carried a knife, I've used 3 in One, new and used 10W30, new and used ATF, oilve oil, WD-40, Hoppy's Gun Oil, bacon grease ...
Lube the joints, and wipe off the excess.
"Discoloration" ... are the blades CV/Carbon Steel or Tru Sharp/Stanless Steel?
If CV/Carbon steel the discoloration is patina. Patina is a good thing. It is non-toxic, and helps prevent the blade from rusting.
You can remove it with somethig like Never Dull, but it will return if you use the knife. Personally, I'd just leave it and let it develope and change over time.
The corrosion inside ... brass, Nickle Sliver, or steel liners?
Brass and nickle silver liners and bolsters can be cleaned with Real Lemon lemon juice (or lime juice, or catsup)
Note: if you soak the knife in lemon or lime juice and the blades are carbon steel, you will get a patina on the blades.
You could also open the blades and clean the inides with oily 0000 steel wool or a scotchbrite pad.
If there is more than one blade on a spring, open one fully then the other fully, to lessen the chance of breaking the backspring.
Modoc ED
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Here is one of my Case CV 6265 SAB Folding Hunter knives from the 1965 - 1969 era. Note that there is some discoloration of the blades. A little gun oil and 0000 steel wool would tone it down a bit but I like it as is. Gun oil works well for lubricating the joints; however, food grade mineral oil works well too. There is nothing wrong with stiff opening and closing blades. Actually, that is desireable on a folding hunter knife when used as it is meant to be used. I know you most likely know but for those that don't, CV = Chrome Vanadium and SAB = Saber Ground. Anyway, I hope you enjoy your new (to you) knife. Post a picture of it when you can.
Oh, the shield on your knife is most likely NOT pinned as Case stopped pinning their shields right around 1976; however, not too much is written in stone when it comes to these knives and most other traditional knives (dating a knife by tang stamps comes to mind) for that matter.
Oh, the shield on your knife is most likely NOT pinned as Case stopped pinning their shields right around 1976; however, not too much is written in stone when it comes to these knives and most other traditional knives (dating a knife by tang stamps comes to mind) for that matter.
Thanks for the help so far! I'm hoping I can add the image correctly. Like I said, I don't want a safe queen. I just want to clean it up some, lubricate it and keep it. I've sharpened the blades, so that part is done. I've read somewhere that you can use popsicle sticks to get into the channels. I'm not sure what the blades are made of. There's no SS stamp on the blades, so I'm assuming carbon steel. No idea on the liners.
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That's CV ('chrome vanadium'), non-stainless steel. The discoloration does just look like the 'good' patina, i.e., black oxide which forms over time. No need to remove that - it's not harming the steel in any way, and it adds perfect character to an old hard-working knife like this. Liners should be brass on that knife.
You can still test for the presence of red rust by wiping down the blade with a pencil eraser. Any red rust will show up red or brown on the eraser. Or wipe down the blades with a clean paper towel moistened with WD-40. Any red rust on the surface will show up on the paper towel.
Here's one of mine, a 1965 - '69 era model in CV, still with the older 'XX' era (1940 - '64) frame. Probably in the transition between the two eras right around 1965. These are aesthetically one of my favorite traditional patterns.
You can still test for the presence of red rust by wiping down the blade with a pencil eraser. Any red rust will show up red or brown on the eraser. Or wipe down the blades with a clean paper towel moistened with WD-40. Any red rust on the surface will show up on the paper towel.
Here's one of mine, a 1965 - '69 era model in CV, still with the older 'XX' era (1940 - '64) frame. Probably in the transition between the two eras right around 1965. These are aesthetically one of my favorite traditional patterns.
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Great looking knife. I’d give it a little love as described above and put it in my pocket and use it!Thanks for the help so far! I'm hoping I can add the image correctly. Like I said, I don't want a safe queen. I just want to clean it up some, lubricate it and keep it. I've sharpened the blades, so that part is done. I've read somewhere that you can use popsicle sticks to get into the channels. I'm not sure what the blades are made of. There's no SS stamp on the blades, so I'm assuming carbon steel. No idea on the liners.
BrotherJim
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Great advice given. Clean about as you would your firearms, lube it, rub some lovin' into it, pocket it with pride
Hickory n steel
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The " slight color on the blades " is patina that is actually a good thing,.
All you really need to do here is flush the pivots with some oil compressed air and cotton swabs then properly dry it and give the piots a little oil.
Catdaddy2
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Oil the joints and your good to go. I'm a patina guy and those blades are looking good to me. Congrats on the knife.
Modoc ED
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The covers/handles/scales on your knife are jigged Pakkawood (layered/laminated wood). That's a nice knife. If it were mine, I'd be content with rubbing it down with a lightly oiled cloth and call it good. Insert the tip of an oiled Q-tip in the well to clean it/preserve it.