I will bother y'all no more

[KarlMaldensNose]

Even I was getting tired of my own constant and repetative questions about DMT diamond hones, their grits, sizes, prices, etc. So I thought I'd put an end to all that nonsense and just ordered an Edgepro Apex. Just like the DMT stuff, I agonized over what particulars to get with the system. So along with the included 220 and 320 grit stones, I also picked up the following:

-- 120 grit stone
-- 600 grit stone
-- 6000 grit tape
-- fine diamond stone
-- 2 stone blanks
-- 2 tape blanks
-- glass blank
-- 15 micron (~1000x) SiC 3M Micro Abrasive Sheet, PSA
-- 5 micron (~2500x) SiC 3M Sheet, PSA
-- 0.5 micron (~9000x) CrO 3M Sheet
-- 90x SiC lapping grit
-- glass lapping plate

I will throw one more question to you all before I fade into the sunset with my new tools and visions of hair-popping, mirror edges.

On Edge Pro's website they sell two different diamond stones for the system. One is a "Fine Diamond Stone" and the other a "Super Fine Diamond Stone." Neither has listed specs for grit, micron, or mesh. The only information I could find on either of them was in a user review on the webpage for the "Super Fine Diamond Stone." In the comments the reviewer states that it cuts faster than a 120 grit waterstone and leaves a smoother finish than any other diamond stone he'd ever used. And this is the Super Fine stone, not the Fine Stone. This claim has me spinning in confusion. It is a super fine diamond and it cuts faster than 120 grit stone? Such a fast cutting diamond and it leaves a smooth finish? If this Super fine diamond cuts more/faster than 120x stone, then the Fine diamond should cut even faster since it is coarser (or should be, based on its name)? Wouldn't these diamonds be classified and named in the extra coarse range if they cut so fast?

Does anyone have the actual specs for these Edge Pro diamond stones? If not specs, how about any personal experience using them? Thanks very much.

 

[FlaMtnBkr]

From what I understand the inventer and owner of edge pro is very passionate about sharpening and his tools. Give him a call and ask and I'm sure every question you have will be answered in a few minutes.

Probably not the reply you want but it will give you some quick answers to your questions.

 

[cj65]

That is a great recommendation. Go straight to the source.

 

[KarlMaldensNose]

Good idea. So good in fact that I thought of it too. He has already replied to my question.... in great detail and at great length. He is very passionate. Anyway, he doesn't even recommend diamond at all for steel blades, only for ceramic. Gives a lot of compelling reasons for this belief, and much of it made sense, however I kept the diamond stone in my order for those "just in case" knives with crazy hard steel. Regarding the grit/micron/mesh questions... he did not have an answer b/c his distributor will not even give a rating as diamonds wear and smooth out so quickly, and at such variable rates, that the initial grit is only accurate for so long.

 

[stitchawl]

You made the right decision, and you won't regret it. You might regret not buying several sheets of the .5 mic sheets but you can always get them later if you find you use them often. Unfortunately, they don't last long.

Just remember... Use VERY LITTLE PRESSURE and keep the stones moving 90° to the edge of the blade. Don't turn the blade over until you've raised a burr along the entire edge. Use lots of water. Use lots of water. Use lots of water. Use lots of ...

Have fun with your new toy, and keep in mind there is absolutely no need to put a shaving edge on your plastic pocket comb or the family dog.

Happy New Year!!

Stitchawl

 

[KarlMaldensNose]

You made the right decision, and you won't regret it. You might regret not buying several sheets of the .5 mic sheets but you can always get them later if you find you use them often. Unfortunately, they don't last long.

I have easy access to those sheets so thought I'd try one out before I buy five at discount.

Just remember... Use VERY LITTLE PRESSURE and keep the stones moving 90° to the edge of the blade. Don't turn the blade over until you've raised a burr along the entire edge. Use lots of water. Use lots of water. Use lots of water. Use lots of ...

I've been copy 'n' pasting from here all the tidbits of Edgepro advice I come across. Light touch, 90 degrees and water, water, and more water, are some of the ones that come up the most.

Have fun with your new toy, and keep in mind there is absolutely no need to put a shaving edge on your plastic pocket comb or the family dog.

I'm affraid I'll have to learn the hard way.

So after some research I found out that EZE Lap supplies the diamond stones for the Edgepro. Which is unfortunate because I believe they are polycrystaline, not monocrystaline like DMT's. This would explain why they are so cheap and wear out so fast. And just becuase I posed the question, I should probably answer it if I can, if anyone is interested. The Fine and Superfine diamond stones are 600 and 1200 grit respectively.

If I find the waterstones to wear too quickly for my liking, I might just saw some DMT 6"X2" Diasharps in half so they fit the 6"X1" stone blanks. Thing is, they only come in C, F and EF. I would have liked an XC or maybe even an XXC instead. But I'm content for now.

 

[stitchawl]

I have easy access to those sheets so thought I'd try one out before I buy five at discount.

That's exactly what I do. I get 'em at the DIY center up to 1500 grit.

Light touch, 90 degrees and water, water, and more water, are some of the ones that come up the most.

Regarding water... Not so much more water as frequently added water. Squirting a bit more on the stone to rinse away metal particles often, rinsing off the blade, etc. As I said before, I keep a shop towel on either side of the base.

I'm affraid I'll have to learn the hard way.

You're lucky. The only thing I've learned from experience is that I don't seem to learn from experience!!!

If I find the waterstones to wear too quickly for my liking,.....

The only stone you'll probably notice it happening to will be the 120 grit unless you are sharpening professionally. I can still read the numbers on my 320 and 600, and see where they were on the 220. But I've had to flatten my 120 twice.

Stitchawl

 

[Ben Dover]

You're All set!

And IME, the waterstones don't really wear very fast, except the 120 and 220. And I sharpen a lot of S90V and CPM M -4.

Now just practice.

 

[Pensacola Tiger]

...
If I find the waterstones to wear too quickly for my liking, I might just saw some DMT 6"X2" Diasharps in half so they fit the 6"X1" stone blanks. ...

Don't waste the time and efffort to cut one in half. Just attach the blank to the uncut 6"x2" DiaSharp. It will work just fine. Mine do.

 

[THE PUNISHER]

call dale he will help you,i never use but 2 stones in my edge pro.

 

[David Martin]

I've had a EZ-Lap stone for 10yrs. used hard and I thought it held up as well as my DMT . DM

 

[sodak]

Don't fade off into the sunset, post a review with pictures!!!

 

[KarlMaldensNose]

You're All set!

And IME, the waterstones don't really wear very fast, except the 120 and 220. And I sharpen a lot of S90V and CPM M -4.

Now just practice.

I plan on swimming in CPM M4 in the future and this was what was on my mind when considering diamonds, so I'm happy to hear stones hold up fine.

Don't waste the time and efffort to cut one in half. Just attach the blank to the uncut 6"x2" DiaSharp. It will work just fine. Mine do.

Good to know. Seems a little awkward, but then so does slicing DMT plates in half.

call dale he will help you,i never use but 2 stones in my edge pro.

Already did. He was a fountain of knowledge and help.

I've had a EZ-Lap stone for 10yrs. used hard and I thought it held up as well as my DMT . DM

Good to know. I suspect the monocrystaline trumping polycrystaline stance, although based in science, is somewhat drummed up by advertising and just theory that doesn't necessarily translate 100% to practice.

Don't fade off into the sunset, post a review with pictures!!!

Yeah, not too many reviews of this system out there... at least that I've seen.

 

[redbike]

Water, water and more water, except for the last very light pass on each side immediately before you move on to the next stone. Watch his dvd (brutal production, but has all the stuff you need in it) He talks about the exception to the water rule. Brilliant system - wouldn't be without it. YMMV

 

[Holmesmade]

I've found that using water with the course stone causes it to break down way too fast. I just use it dry and check frequently to be sure I'm not building up heat in the steel. Thankfully, it's very rare to need the course stone.
Frequent wetting of the stones and wiping down the blade and base plate is definitely the way to go.
I keep a roll of painter's tape in my kit to cover/wrap my nicer blades before sharpening. Loose grit on the base plate will do bad things to smooth finishes.

 

[thombrogan]

Good to know. I suspect the monocrystaline trumping polycrystaline stance, although based in science, is somewhat drummed up by advertising and just theory that doesn't necessarily translate 100% to practice.

You're absolutely correct.

As for reviews, since you've got the search function with your gold membership, look for posts in this forum and the general forum from Nosmo and MeDoctor. They're platinum mines of info. Over at some other knife forum, QuietOne and Nosmo are very helpful, too.